The Milford Track offered some of the most stunning scenery in Aotearoa. Photo / Matt Gibb
When one pictures New Zealand’s Great Walks and tracks, most people probably think of native birds, silver ferns glistening in the sunlight and streams trickling over ancient rock beds.
My mind, however, goes to enduring dehydrated food, blisters on heels, the itch of a base layer, DoC huts and long drops – if you’re lucky.
Despite my penchant for the finer things (that won’t give me chafe) in life, I’ve always wanted to do one of New Zealand’s 11 Great Walks and see the beauty tourists flock to.
I’m not alone; it’s a bucket list experience for many, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a Kiwi who doesn’t say, “Yeah, nah, I’ve always wanted to do that, eh.”
So if you, like me, haven’t entered a Kathmandu since 2008, when you purchased your long-standing (and still going hard) Kiwi staple puffer jacket, read on.
It began with an enticing email inviting me to experience a new way to do a Great Walk in under a day as part of Southern Discoveries’ Milford Sound Cruise and Milford Track experience. My interest was piqued.
They promised the track portion wouldn’t require hiking boots (tick) and would take less than four hours (tick, tick), while also seeing Milford Sound by boat and resting my head at luxury accommodation in between (tick, tick, tick).
I jumped at the chance, and in doing so, found the perfect way for Kiwis of different ages and abilities to walk the Milford Track and see Milford Sound with a little more comfort, in a lot less time and never having to dip your hand into a sandwich bag of communal scroggin.
We took the 7.55am Air New Zealand flight from Auckland to Queenstown and were swiftly transferred to The Hilton Queenstown Resort & Spa, about five minutes from the airport.
Its location made it the ideal spot for those seeking adventure while enabling us to relax with amazing views, and load up on delicious, locally sourced fare at the Wakatipu Grill the night before.
We were meant to fly into Milford Sound but the rain and low cloud didn’t permit it.
So we headed for the bus station, about five minutes from the Hilton, to catch the Southern Discoveries coach – to the initial dismay of this traveller, who prefers to tour without, well, tourists.
But within a few minutes, our driver Keith set the tone for the trip, providing banter, expert knowledge and being genuinely warm and an all-round Kiwi legend.
During our 4.5-hour drive, we stopped for photo opportunities, encountered some of the local wildlife and drank spring water right from the source. My hesitation quickly dissolved into gratitude for what one can discover when taking the long route, including my surprising discovery that I have a penchant for really, really big rocks.
Around 1pm, we arrived at Milford Sound with 30 minutes until the Southern Discoveries Nature Cruise departed.
On board, we had the upgraded Cascade Room experience, which I can’t recommend enough to my comrades who also like their travel with a side, or main, of luxe. We shared the room with just a handful of other passengers, and it has a max occupancy of 20.
It was an additional $99, on top of the standard pricing, which starts at $165, but the extra cost included a selection of drinks (including alcohol) and a premium buffet you can enjoy at your own private table with personalised place settings.
The buffet was world-class in buffet standards, fresh and packed full of flavour that had us coming back for more.
The Cascade Room also gave us a private deck area to check out the views from, and a dedicated member of staff to assist with any needs, as well as helping this non eagle-eyed traveller spot seals and wildlife. Though I must admit, *Sue, I never did see the baby seal you repeatedly pointed out, but I simply couldn’t ask you, “where?” for a fourth time.
It was raining on and off during our 90-minute trip, but it turned out to be the best way to see the Sound due to the increase in waterfalls, so don’t be deterred if it’s raining on your day of departure.
Once back on shore, we headed for our accommodation, which couldn’t have been more different from a DoC hut. Milford Sound Lodge is the only accommodation provider in the area, and it holds the space effortlessly.
Our Luxury Riverside Chalet was stunning, overlooking the Cheddau River and waterfalls, complete with a deck and floor-to-ceiling windows. No detail was missed, and I found myself googling who did the interior design while delighting in the bathrooms’ heated flooring.
We dined on-site at Pio Pio for dinner, and the food was local, fresh and innovative and perfectly paired with local wines and great service.
That night, we decided to sleep with the curtains open so we could wake up to the breathtaking views.
The next morning, we did some poorly executed stretches and headed for the water taxi, a two-minute walk from the lodge. The knowledgeable team at Fiordland Outdoors took us to the tracks’ entry point, and given the duration, we decided to do the self-guided version of the 11km Milford Track Day Walk.
On docking, it quickly became apparent that Sandfly Point lives up to its name, so after slathering ourselves in Bushmans, we set off in sneakers, basic activewear and a raincoat with a backpack containing water, a packed lunch and extra SPF.
For those prone to tripping or who might struggle with mobility, I would recommend a shoe with some ankle support, or maybe some walking sticks. While we didn’t mind the occasionally muddy or rocky bit, nor stepping in a puddle, others might not feel the same.
The walk was more beautiful than I could have imagined. Weka crossed in front of us without hesitation, native bird song filled the surrounding trees, and a photo opportunity lay at every turn.
When we reached Giant Gate Falls, about an hour and 40 minutes in for us, we took a moment to soak in a scene that felt so otherworldly it could have been straight out of Jurassic Park.
At the end of the epic 3.5-hour walk, I checked data on my Apple Watch and had clocked 18,500 steps and was buzzing with excitement about what that would do to my monthly step average.
We arrived back at the water taxi feeling amazing and so blown away by the views, and found out the weather had given us a window to fly back, so we headed to the airport, five minutes from the water taxi return point.
We boarded a small Glenorchy Air light plane and our friendly pilot talked us through the incredible views below of Milford, snowy mountains, glaciers and Queenstown as we came in to land.
After landing at Queenstown airport just before 2pm, we were shuttled back to the Hilton, where we had a well-earned soak in the bath, to help our tired legs recover, before catching a water taxi to downtown Queenstown.
We sat by the water and enjoyed oysters and celebratory bubbles as we toasted ticking off a Great Walk without having consumed an ounce of dehydrated casserole.
Jenni Mortimer is the New Zealand Herald‘s chief lifestyle and entertainment reporter. Jenni started at the Herald in 2017 and has previously worked as lifestyle, entertainment and travel editor.
New Zealand Herald Travel was hosted by Southern Discoveries as part of the trip
*Sue’s name has been changed to protect her reputation as a seal spotter