People walking around at Ximending. A neighbourhood and shopping district in the Wanhua District of Taipei. Photo / 123rf
Taiwan’s capital is unlike most Asian cities you’ll come across – a walkable tangle of skyscrapers, parks and temples surrounded by forested mountains and hot springs parks. Tamara Hinson explores its hippest hangouts in 48 hours.
9am
Blow away the cobwebs with a hike up the Elephant Trail, a twisting footpath which streaks up the side of a forested mountain towering over the city and lined with fragrant begonia plants and yellow-stem fig trees. The starting point is just a few metres from Xiangshan MTR station, and there are a number of routes to choose from, all lined with designated viewpoints, most of which overlook the Taipei 101 tower. Hiking the trail in April or May? Keep an eye out for the mountain’s fireflies - this is when they’re most likely to be seen.
10.30am
The National Dr Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, built to honour the man regarded as the founding father of the Republic of China, is a stunning gold-roofed building modelled on a Chinese palace and surrounded by gardens popular with kite flyers. Large enough that it’s got its own MRT station, the building’s most popular spot is the main hall, which contains an enormous statue of Sun Yat-sen. Don’t miss the hourly changing of the guard – a foot-stomping extravaganza which lasts for around seven minutes. Fancy some light reading? Head to the hall’s library, filled with 300,000 books about Dr Sun Yat-sen and the Republic of China.
12pm
Fuel your explorations with a visit to Din Tai Fung, the famous xiao long bao (steamed dumplings) restaurant founded by Chinese immigrant Yang Bing-Yi in 1958. You’ll find the original store on Taipei’s Xinyi Rd, but we recommend heading to the one at the base of the Taipei 101 tower, where glass-walled kitchens allow visitors to watch teams of chefs prepare the famous xiao long baos, every one of which must weigh 21g and have 18 folds. Don’t pass up the chance to try the ones filled with piping hot chocolate.
2pm
Offset any indulgences with a visit to the Beitou Hot Spring Park, where hibiscus trees wilt over steaming hot springs pools. The area is a five-minute walk from Taipei’s Xinbeitou station, a 50-minute MRT journey from the city centre. The park encompasses numerous natural hot springs pools in which visitors can bathe, along with the Beitou Hot Spring Museum, where you’ll find the park’s original hot springs bath house, built in 1913 by the Japanese. Another nearby attraction is Thermal Valley (otherwise known, somewhat dauntingly, as Hell Valley), where pools of piping hot water send thick clouds of sulphur-scented steam into the air. These pools are too hot to bathe in, but Hell Valley is nonetheless one of Taipei’s most spectacular (and stinkiest) landmarks.
4pm
Time to explore Ximending. Similar to Tokyo’s Harajuku neighbourhood, this neon-drenched part of the city has everything from cosplay cafes to stores specialising in all things cute. Feeling brave? You’ll see several businesses offering daoliao (knife massages), which involve being pummelled by (albeit blunt) steel knives, first practised in China 2000 years ago. For something less terrifying, snap a selfie on the rainbow-hued pedestrian crossing outside Ximen metro station – a nod to Ximending’s popularity with Taipei’s LGBTQ crowd. Make sure you check out the Red House, too. One of the neighbourhood’s oldest buildings; it’s filled with arts and crafts stalls, making it a great spot to grab some souvenirs.
6pm
Offset the chaos of Ximending with a visit to the six-storey Songshan Ciyou Temple, one of Taipei’s most beautiful (but often overlooked) temples. Located in the Songshan district, it was built in 1753 and is famous for its spectacularly ornate exterior, which includes snarling dragons and various symbols representing wealth, happiness and longevity. Keep an eye out for the fearsome stone lions, carved in the 1800s, by the entrance.
8pm
The Songshan Ciyou Temple is just a few metres from the Raohe Street Night Market, which is one of the best spots to sample local delicacies. What sets this market apart is the diversity of its dishes. Yes, you’ll still find (and smell) plenty of Taipei’s ubiquitous stinky tofu, but the market’s also famous for its dorayaki (red bean pancakes), oyster omelettes and mochi. Don’t leave without trying a black pepper bun – toasted buns stuffed with juicy pork and green onion. Grab one from the stall near the market’s east entrance – it’s been mentioned in Taipei’s Michelin guide.
9am
Time for a wander around Wanhua, which is Taipei’s oldest district and was once a walled city (only one of the original city gates remains). Its highlights include Longshan Temple, which dates back to 1738 and is famous for its carvings, including 12 snake-adorned columns. Afterwards, wander down Xichang St (often referred to as Herb St), a fragrant thoroughfare filled with stalls selling herbs, spices and teas. The stalls’ customers include visitors to Bangka Lungshan Temple, who will often ask temple gods for help treating illnesses before purchasing traditional medicines here.
11am
For a spot of retail therapy, it’s hard to beat Taipei’s Da’an district. This is where you’ll find Rongjin Gorgeous Time, close to the city’s Dongmen MRT station. Filled with stores and cafes, it’s one of the numerous historic buildings constructed by the Japanese in the early 1900s and recently restored by the Government. This is also where you’ll find the original Din Tai Fung restaurant, where you can pose for a selfie with the ridiculously cute xiao long bao-shaped mascot by the entrance.
12pm
Nearby Yongkang St is often referred to as Taipei’s coolest road, and although it’s part of Da’an, it’s thoroughly deserving of its own mention. Stretching for almost a kilometre, it’s lined with the city’s best independent boutiques, bars and cafes. For a sugar fix, head to one of the many bakeries selling Taiwan’s famous pineapple cakes (we recommend Sunmerry Dongmen Shop) or grab some fruit syrup-topped shaved ice. Nearby Daan Forest Park – often referred to as the lungs of Taipei – is a great spot to escape if the crowds get too much.
2pm
Time for some afternoon tea, and you’ll struggle to find a more suitable spot than the Mandarin Oriental Taipei, famous for its decadent, themed afternoon teas. They’re served in the hotel’s beautiful Jade Room, and recent incarnations include ones inspired by Hennessy X.O, Elizabeth Arden and skincare brand Sisley. The Mandarin Oriental is a fantastic spot for tea lovers – the hotel offers tea-tasting masterclasses and cocktails on offer at its MO bar include several made with tea (try the Summer Sangria, made with oolong tea, lime and orange blossom water).
4pm
Visit the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, built to honour the first president of the Republic of China who fled to Taiwan in 1949 and subsequently led the Chinese Nationalist Government in exile in Taiwan. Like the National Dr Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, the building is eye-wateringly grand – a bright white memorial hall topped with azure-blue tiles and surrounded by beautiful gardens. Head inside to learn more about Chiang Kai-shek in the huge museum (exhibits include his three-tonne, bulletproof car) and to check out the enormous bronze statue of the late Chiang Kai-shek, guarded by stern-looking soldiers.
6pm
Shilin Night Market (a short walk from Jiantan station) is one of the city’s largest night markets. It dates back to the late 1800s and it’s a great spot to bag some last-minute souvenirs and fill up on delicacies such as cold noodles (typically seasoned with lemon juice), stewed pork ribs and fried buns. This particular market is surrounded by schools, and its popularity with students is one of the reasons prices are refreshingly low. Several of the market’s stalls have bagged Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, used by the Michelin Guide to highlight fantastic food at affordable prices.
Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Taipei three times a week.
The Amba Taipei Songshan, close to the Songshan Ciyou Temple and just a few metres from the Raohe Street Night Market, has double rooms from NZ$271 per night, on a B&B basis. amba-hotels.com
Taipei’s slick network of bullet trains means it’s easy to explore further afield. Travellers with a couple of days to spare should consider heading to Guguan, a hot springs town in the mountains above the city of Taichung, a one-hour bullet train ride from Taipei. Hoshinoya Guguan is a luxurious hot-springs resort with private onsens in the ryokan-style bedrooms. hoshinoya.com
For more to see and do, visit eng.taiwan.net.tw
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