What it's like to fly on Air NZ's new direct Auckland to New York route

"Welcome to the circus," said Bishop, the surprisingly friendly border security officer as he stamped my passport and officially waved me on to US soil. It was about 17 hours since we'd taken off from Auckland Airport on NZ2, Air New Zealand's inaugural direct service to New York. The hour in the queue to get through customs felt far more wearisome than the 16-hour flight had - it was hot, I was crumpled, and couldn't wait to get to my hotel and let a week in the Big Apple begin.

"Circus" felt like a very apt description as I stepped out of the transfer van into the midst of Times Square - people, noise, lights, colour everywhere; a true assault on the senses - senses that have had a lot of time to be quiet and peaceful over the last few years.

New York is buzzing, as if the pandemic never happened. It's hard to imagine the Times Square of two years ago, when the city was locked down and there was barely anyone to be seen. Walking a few blocks to a rooftop bar under the shadow of the Empire State Building was like swimming against the tide. A constant throng of people, everywhere I looked, all with faces full of the wide-eyed wonder only New York can inspire. It's great to be back.

A long hot summer in New York is coming to a close but there's no sign of a slowing to the return of tourism. Photo / NYC & Company

Although the 16-hour flight time seemed intimidating before boarding, it actually felt relatively quick and surprisingly easy. And yes, I was flying business class, so of course it would be easy for me. But the passengers I spoke to in Premium Economy and Economy all said the same - they were surprised how fast the flight went.

The anticipation and excitement of an inaugural journey no doubt helped. At the boarding gate, we'd been treated to free-flowing Champagne, pizza and live music, with commemorative photo booths to capture the event, and Minister for Tourism Stuart Nash announcing the boarding call.

There was more Champagne on board, and complimentary pyjamas and Deadly Ponies amenity kits for passengers in the premium cabins. There was a new menu, too, showcasing beautiful New Zealand produce, which made dinner service feel like a real treat.

It's easy to sleep on a lie-flat bed of course, but I was still surprised to wake up and find there were only four hours remaining - I'd had a solid seven-hour sleep and woke feeling revived. Brunch, a freshen up and a movie later and the cabin crew were preparing for landing.

I put on Air New Zealand's New York, New York playlist through the in-flight entertainment system as we descended closer to the city and somehow the timing worked perfectly for Frank Sinatra's Theme from New York to be playing exactly the same time as the skyscrapers of Manhattan appeared in the distance.

"I'm going to be a part of it..." Frank sang, and I couldn't help but let a grin spread across my face.

The queue for customs was a pain, yes, but avoiding a transit connection elsewhere is definitely a big plus for Air New Zealand's new route, especially in these times of potential delays, cancellations and lost luggage.

And the queue was easily forgotten when we arrived in Times Square and were immediately immersed in the energy of the city.

As I write this, I've been in New York fewer than 24 hours and already I have: walked more than 15,000 steps; had cocktails at two rooftop bars; eaten a pastrami sandwich; and seen the Empire State, Chrysler, and countless other iconic buildings.

Travel Editor Stephanie Holmes at Magic Hour, a rooftop bar in Manhattan, after arriving in New York on Air New Zealand's inaugural direct flight. Photo / Supplied

But along with those traditional classic NYC ticklist items, I've also been to two attractions that have opened within the last year. Rise NY is an immersive museum/theme park ride showcasing the history of the city and is well worth booking for the start of your stay. Summit One Vanderbilt, which opened last October, is a skyscraper observation deck with a difference, where the views inside the building are just as captivating as those seen out the windows.

The pace here is fast and it can sometimes feel like you don't even have time to catch your breath. There are seemingly infinite options for things to see and do - how do you know you're picking the right ones, making the most of your time, not missing out on something good? Even with a week here, I know it's not going to be enough. But what a buzz to be back in one of the most exciting, diverse, and vibrant cities on Earth. And even better to know getting here just got that little bit easier for New Zealand travellers.