Lorna Riley highlights the value and ease of Viking's 15-day Grand European Tour from Budapest to Amsterdam. Photo / Supplied
Lorna Riley hops aboard a river cruise to see whether it really is the best way to see Europe.
I’m no stranger to river cruising, having travelled down the Rhône in France and along the Mekong in Vietnam and Cambodia. My fiancé Mike, however, is a virgin voyager, so a 15-day Viking Grand European Tour (Budapest to Amsterdam) promises quite the introduction.
We know Condé Nast Traveler readers have voted Viking No 1 for river cruising the past five years in a row, but how would these two Kiwis find it? Here are 10 things we loved.
1. It’s surprisingly economical
River cruising may not be a budget option, but it does provide great value. We sailed through four countries (Hungary, Austria, Germany and the Netherlands) on three rivers, and explored 13 ports. To replicate this trip ourselves, to the same premium level, would involve shelling out a lot more on accommodation, meals (including tipping) and local tours, as well as hassles like negotiating traffic and transport options, and living out of a suitcase – plus all the extensive pre-trip research required, and the time and money spent travelling between locations.
Instead, we just unpack once and relax: the all-inclusive fare on our river cruise covers all this and more. In fact, if you’re savvy, it’s possible to not spend another cent once the cruise begins.
2. It feels easy
River cruising offers several advantages, beginning with embarkation: an easy walk-on process. Towns and cities are built around the river, so you can dock right in the thick of things, making it extremely easy to explore on your own.
Once underway, the smooth sailing means no motion sickness, and there’s an intimate atmosphere on board. It’s also an ideal way to travel for people with mobility issues as there are only four decks in total, with a lift available if required. Smart casual dress is the norm, with no formal nights.
3. The lodgings are lush
Viking’s large European river fleet shares an identical design: our 135m longship “Ve” accommodates up to 190 guests over three decks. Our own stateroom is category D, compact compared to the two-room suites but still impressive and serviced twice daily. There is a French balcony and a comfortable queen-size bed with luxury linens and clever under-bed luggage storage. The bathroom features a spacious glass-enclosed shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror and hair dryer with premium Freyja toiletries and robes and slippers.
Outside our stateroom, there’s the top sun deck with 360-degree views, loungers and a shaded seating area, and an organic herb garden plus a putting green and walking track if you don’t take enough steps on shore; the Aquavit terrace and lounge, an indoor/outdoor viewing area at the bow of the ship for al fresco dining; the popular lounge and bar, which like the restaurant below has floor-to-ceiling glass for panoramic views; plus a library and onboard shop.
4. Excursions are immersive and included
Viking offers an excursion in every port as part of your fare, mostly walking tours hosted by knowledgeable local guides. Photo opportunities are as plentiful as free time for shopping, and once you’ve gained your bearings, exploring on your own is so much easier. Whether it’s Panoramic Budapest, Nuremberg Through History, the Cologne Walking Tour to its iconic Gothic cathedral, or a look inside the Kinderdijk Windmills, we found these included trips exceptional. You can also book many additional excursions: we can recommend Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna (the magnificent home of the Habsburg Dynasty) and Rothenburg ob der Tauber (an all-day trip along the picturesque Bavarian “Romantic Road” to one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns, lovingly preserved).
5. It’s a cruise with constant views
River cruising offers fascinating views at every turn. Five half-days on our 15-day adventure are dedicated to scenic sailing: first the picturesque Wachau Valley on the Danube in lower Austria, a Unesco site dotted with hillside vineyards; then the Main-Danube canal, a 171km, 16-lock engineering marvel through Bavaria and across the Continental Divide; the Main River through Germany’s scenic Franconia region with its Grimm Brothers fairytale charm; the Middle Rhine, another Unesco-listed site, home to the infamous Lorelei Rock and dotted with dozens of splendid castles; and finally sailing on The Netherlands’ waterways as classic Dutch scenery unfurls, all quaint farmhouses and windmills.
Best of all, these sites can be enjoyed anywhere on the ship: on the sun deck or the lounge with expert commentary, or from the privacy of your stateroom with in-room binoculars.
6. You’ll never be bored on board
At various ports, local musicians were invited on board: we enjoy a classical trio in Austria, and a Franconian band in Germany. An opera singer makes an appearance, a glassblower gives a fascinating live demonstration, and we learn how to make traditional strudel during a cooking class. Pre- and post-dinner drinks and chats are accompanied by our delightful pianist Mitko (he can also belt out some dance floor classics when required, and we require it), and our team is victorious at one evening’s music trivia contest (being a radio host finally proving useful). There are plenty of puzzles and games available, and the library is well-stocked. Our stateroom TV also has live TV channels, a wide selection of movies on demand (some related to the places we’re visiting), and in-house programming such as the daily port talks. Like everything else, fast uninterrupted Wi-Fi is complimentary.
7. You can make fast friends with fellow travellers
Small passenger numbers mean it’s easy to connect with new friends – “our tribe”, I like to call them. Despite this being New Zealand’s favourite Viking itinerary, we are the only Kiwis on board along with one couple from across the Tasman while the rest mostly hail from the US. Guest ages on our ship range from 23 to 93; in our mid-50s, we are slightly under the average age, but forge lasting friendships with several American couples. If you’d told me that my favourite people on board would be a South Carolinian octogenarian former nuclear submarine commander and his wife, I’d never have believed you; nevertheless, Bill and Anne become our cruise besties as we share wine, laughs and invitations to visit each other’s homes.
8. The food, the wine, the cocktails
All food is included in the fare, and it’s exceptional. From the huge breakfast array (both buffet and à la carte) to multi-course lunches and dinners, menus change daily and are destination-focused; however, some classic dishes are available throughout (we recommend the Norwegian salmon and the crème brûlée). A selection of soft drinks, wine and beer is also included at lunch and dinner, and for most people this is probably adequate. For those who like their cocktails, champagne, premium wines, spirits and whiskies, it may be worth upgrading to the Silver Spirits package (around NZ$47 per person per day).
9. Outstanding staff and service
From our stateroom steward to our sommelier, our head chef to our bar manager, our cruise director to our hotel manager and everyone in between – the crew are impeccable in every way, learning our names immediately and offering friendly service which is high-end but unfussy.
10. It’s a good time any time of year
Although spring and autumn are my favourite times to take a river cruise, our trip at the start of the European winter means some cold days, yes, but also early Christmas markets and a festive atmosphere. No matter what time of year you cruise, the on-board comforts mean you get the most out of each destination.
Viking Cruises’ 15-day Grand European Tour from Budapest to Amsterdam.
New Zealand Herald Travel travelled courtesy of Viking Cruises.