There is much to enjoy at the hunting and game lodge in Rotorua. Photo / Sarah Pollok
Treetops has far more to offer than just game and hunting, with unbelievable service, art-filled interiors and an abundance of nature to explore, writes Sarah Pollok
“I’m just going to pop this right here,” murmurs Graeme, the lodge manager at Treetops, as he slides a small plate of freshly cooked snapper behind several wine bottles and out of sight from the rest of the group seated around the massive wooden dinner table.
Weeks later, I still have absolutely no clue how Graeme knew that, despite registering as vegan on my booking, I enjoy the odd bit of fish; a fact many friends don’t even know. Perplexed? Yes, but not surprised. This is simply the level of service you get at TreeTops Lodge.
The award-winning accommodation, hidden in 1000ha of 800-year-old native forest, was dreamed up by John Sax who, besides being a prolific property developer, is an exceptionally passionate conservationist with a love for trout fishing.
I’ve visited many hotels, resorts, villas and chalets in my time yet the usual descriptions don’t quite fit what you receive at the magnificent lodge. It’s cosy and familial, yet opulent and fancy, like staying at your wealthy grandfather’s summer home. Barstools line the bench of the open kitchen you’re encouraged to wander through if you’d like Felipe to whip you up a snack.
Speaking of Felipe, the handful of staff and few fellow guests mean you quickly get on a first-name basis with everyone. By Saturday night we’re cracking jokes with Lewis, the young British property manager who took us on a thrilling 4WD tour of the massive property’s stags, deer, llamas and water buffalo (which John rescued from a failed breeding programme decades ago), before scrubbing up to wait on guests at dinner.
The meal, and the rest of the stay, is soundtracked via speakers hidden around the lodge playing Elton John and Steely Dan, Tears for Fears and Billy Joel; the musical equivalent of a dad’s old sweater, familiar, warm and a few decades old.
The stay itself, from the decor and architecture to the menu and activities, is firmly inspired by game and fishing. Muscular stag heads adorn the walls between stuffed birds and hanging glass cases of historic fishing items, while antlers crown light fittings on the soaring timber ceilings and trout sculptures act as door handles. While certainly present, the hunting paraphernalia doesn’t dominate the space, something I feel we have art lover Alma, John’s wife, to thank.
I sense she is behind the foyer’s delightful yellow ochre walls, lush textured drapes, plush furniture and an unbelievable quantity of art in the form of paintings, drawings, objets d’art and sculptures. Yet, the various rooms (library, day room, billiards room, conservatory and dining room) manage to be maximalist but not cluttered and we’re told pieces are regularly moved or changed out from Alma’s larger collection.
That being said, the true star of the show is the natural surroundings, with forest views presented like paintings in giant timber window frames in every room. “We wanted wilderness outside every window,” John tells us, explaining how they spent three years walking around the property searching for the best place to build.
My older sister and I are in this wilderness, 20 minutes southwest of Rotorua, to try the lodge’s most popular package, Pure Escape, which offers guests a free upgrade to a Luxury Villa as well as evening drinks and canapes, a four-course gourmet dinner, generous breakfast and activities. Like the sister property, Kinloch Manor, guests must stay at least two nights but gazing around the lavish lodge, this is what I would classify as the opposite of a problem.
As part of the package, our room is upgraded to ‘Dawn’, a Luxury Valley View Villa four-minute golf cart ride away (and not a second faster thanks to the new cart’s speed lock). After pushing open the heavy wooden door and passing through the small foyer, the 152sq m villa opens out to a generous lounge with an open stone fireplace, large leather sofa and kitchenette stocked with the essentials (coffee pods, milk, locally made mānuka honey and tea) plus some fancy bar extras. In the lounge and bedroom, glass French doors open up to a patio and views of the Horo Bluffs and valley below.
“The only thing I wish we did have was a wardrobe,” I called out (as one really must yell in a villa this large) while warming my toes on the heated bathroom tiles, quietly planning when I’d enjoy the spa bath and sans ceuticals toiletries. “Go into the bedroom and turn the corner,” my sister replied. Sure enough, I find the walk-in wardrobe, stocked with white waffle robes, hangers and a full-length mirror.
We wake up slowly on Saturday morning feeling … unusual. It is, we realise, the rare feeling of being rested (or more specifically, having eight hours of sleep, uninterrupted by 18-month-old babies or snoring husbands). At 8.30am, we throw open the heavy curtains to the golden morning light and return to bed with coffee and books. Armed with the essentials, it’s tempting to spend all day here, but our type-A personalities (and, admittedly, excitement for breakfast) tempt us back to the lodge an hour later.
By this time, other guests have dined and gone, so we have the entire sun-soaked conservatory to ourselves. Light pours in through floor-to-ceiling windows, the room painted dusty blue with cream-coloured cane armchairs and white marble tables. Up at the kitchen bench, we greet Graeme who takes our coffee order as we pick along the selection of fresh juices, pastries, cereal and fruit. Despite Felipe’s eagerness, we skipped the cooked breakfast menu and savoured the continental options until 11am.
Our package includes a hike and gourmet picnic or $100 credit towards a session of archery, horseback riding or clay shooting and we choose the former. After changing into boots and grabbing the food-filled backpack, we head to the foyer where we meet Chris, the estate manager, who offers to guide us to the falls. “No, no, we are fine, we’ve got it,” we say, waving our map of the property’s 70km of trails while striding outside. All credit to Chris, he doesn’t bat an eyelid when we chase him down approximately 60 seconds later, “just to help us find the trail start”.
One hour, 5km and about 45 waterfall selfies (half of which are tactfully angled to hide my muddied shorts after a slip) later, and we’re almost back at the lodge, where we detour and follow signs for Lake Reflection. Here, we find a large still lake, several kayaks under a wooden shelter and three supremely friendly horses. At first, the enthusiastic nuzzling feels flattering, till we pull out a picnic rug and they siff nose around by backpack expectantly, eventually losing interest in our onion relish and rocket sandwiches.
Our next stop is, without question, the spa not for a treatment or workout in the small gym but a soak in one of the two wooden hot tubs nestled amid the forest. The air is crisp but the water piping hot, smoke billowing across beams of sunlight that filter through the trees.
In retrospect, we perhaps should have waited to soak our muscles into a sleepy softness until after the off-road 4WD safari tour; a bumpy, off-road adventure around the property’s expansive valleys and lush grassland. We’re told it’s the most popular activity, which surprises me until I hop in the Jeep and we meander through the rugged property and come across magnificent stags with impossibly large antlers, standing guard over a herd of deer, then meet families of water buffalo (a supremely under-rated animal and is a new personal favourite) and fresh little lambs.
Back at the lodge, after a shower and refresh, we take our G ‘n’ Ts and canapes in front of the grand foyer’s fireplace, which was built using stone quarried onsite and crackles enthusiastically now, thanks to Graeme, a master of vibes who has moved on to silently lighting dozens of candles in each room, a force as subtle yet calming as the nature that surrounds us.
Price: The Pure Escape package covers two guests and is $2050 per night, with a minimum two-night stay. It’s only available until October 31, 2024, however, guests can enjoy the property year-round.
Contact: For up-to-date prices and information, visit treetops.co.nz.
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