Mt Pureora, the starting point of the trail, is known for having one of the world's last intact podocarp forests. Photo / Visit Ruapehu NZ
Mt Pureora, the starting point of the trail, is known for having one of the world's last intact podocarp forests. Photo / Visit Ruapehu NZ
One is never too posh to pedal, but if you’d like a few extra comforts while cycling the Timber Trail, Helen van Berkel has the answer
Activity level? Thinking of my thrice-weekly spin classes at the Browns Bay Leisure Centre, I check the box: moderate. Now, looking overthe handlebars of the six-hour second leg of the Timber Trail cycling trip I wonder if it is too late to fake a broken leg or two.
But then the sign flashes past: Next exit Ongarue 42km. And we are on our way.
The 85km Timber Trail is one of 23 Nga Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand and follows tramlines laid down by tree-fellers in the early-mid 1900s. The trail is edged with the rusting remnants of those days: fly wheels, tram tracks, mysterious pieces of machinery, clearings in the bush – even a bathtub. Back-breaking physical labour went into exploiting the timber growing so straight and strong on the slopes of the volcanic plateau – some of the shadowy tramline cuttings through dense volcanic rock were well over my head.
The trail starts at Mt Pureora, which boasts one of the world’s last intact podocarp forests, with a 350m climb to the peak, but then descends in a mostly downhill east-to-west ride to the Timber Trail Lodge and then on to Ongarue, north of Taumarunui. We spent the night at the lodge in Piropiro, roughly halfway. We’d arrived the night before to a welcoming fire and a hot dinner that included fresh greens from the lodge garden. Its water is collected from the roof, its waste is treated on site. But this is the “off-the-grid” luxury edition: solar power warmly lights the dining and lounge area where trail cyclists gather of an evening during the season. And once I turned off the lamp in my cosy, well-heated room, I didn’t wake up until the tuneful feathered residents of the surrounding forest launched into their morning chorus.
The Maramataha Bridge on the trail is the third-longest suspension bridge in New Zealand. Photo / Visit Ruapehu NZ
After a fortifying breakfast of granola and coffee, and a check of our gear: wet weather clothing, a packed lunch from the lodge, plenty of water – a PLB is also recommended – we quickly arrive at the trail’s major highlight: the Maramataha Bridge. At 141m long and 53m high, it is the third-longest suspension bridge in New Zealand. It’s one of eight on the trail – three are more than 100m long.
Detailed explanatory boards explain how helicopters were used to bring in the bridge’s component parts.
Distance markers flick past as we pedal towards Ongarue, counting the kilometres since the start: we photograph ourselves at the markers that show our age.
Information boards give details about the foresters who built small settlements along the tramline, about the “lokeys” that towed the “bogies” upon which the felled logs rested for their journey out of the bush.
The occasional massive rimu and totara have escaped the loggers’ blades and clearings created by homes and locomotive turnarounds are gradually being taken over by regenerating bush. Be aware though, as you cycle through this precious part of our history: much of the regeneration here is thanks to the planting efforts of trail volunteers who, supported by the lodge, clear weeds, trap pests and plant natives (and raise the money to make it all happen) to ensure this forest returns to its primeval glory.
Geology also tells a story: deep canyons riven by fast-flowing rivers; walls of volcanic rock left over from world-shattering eruptions - and we puzzle over the flat-topped hills revealed by freshly denuded forest blocks.
And human ingenuity also leaves its mark. The Ongarue Spiral is the only cycle loop of its kind in the world: an ingenious tunnel and track that eased the grade for those early tramlines. We cross a bridge, cycle to the left, traverse a dark tunnel and out the other side – beneath that original bridge.
After a wet winter, parts of the trail are scored with water runnels, so I heed my guide’s advice: worry about where the front wheel goes and the rest will follow.
And before we know it, we have emerged on to the sealed roads that mark the end of the trail. Because much of the Timber Trail from the lodge is downhill, I’ve barely used my bike’s electric mode, flicking it on only during the handful of inclines. It’s with pride that I return it having only used one bar of six available.
The Timber Trail is one of 23 Nga Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand. Photo / Visit Ruapehu NZ
Checklist
THE TIMBER TRAIL
DETAILS
Although it’s possible to do the trail alone and bring your own camping equipment and food, Timber Trail Shuttle and Bike Hire provide – and thoroughly maintain - traditional bikes and e-bikes. They will also take you to the lodge and take care of your luggage. My driver tells me they often pick up five couples to start the trail - and drop off 10 friends.
