Samoa for first-timers. Photo / Samoa Tourism Authority
For all those who haven’t ventured to Samoa yet (and absolutely should), this is the guide for first-timer visitors, written by first-time Samoa holiday-maker herself, Mikhal Norriss.
Nestled in the heart of the Pacific Islands, Samoa is an oasis of lush green forests, picture-perfect waterfalls, pristine target="_blank">beaches, and colourful traditional villages. It hasn’t been overrun by oversized resorts, but it still offers everything you need for a safe and comfortable holiday, bursting with island charm.
Samoa is made up of several islands, with Upolu and Savaiʻi being the largest. Upolu is the main island and home to the capital, Apia, the only international airport, and many tourist attractions. Savai’i is less populated but larger in size, with numerous natural attractions to enjoy. Getting around both islands is easy with a local driver, with longer drives made interesting by the various villages you pass through.
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You don’t have to venture far to discover that there’s much more to this tropical paradise than just coconut trees, beaches, and poolside cocktails. I enjoyed my fair share of all three, but it was getting out there on adventures that were the absolute highlights. Get the locals chatting, and you’ll be laughing heartily with stories about their family, island life, and even a few jokes at your expense. I was jokingly labelled the “true definition of palagi” on a particularly hot day when I was red-faced and trying desperately to cool down.
We oriented ourselves with a guided tour around parts of Upolu with Samoa Scenic Tours. The one-day itinerary included Sopo’aga Falls, the famous To Sua Ocean Trench, and Lalomanu Beach. Just driving there was a delight, with every glance out the window a welcome reminder that we were on holiday.
In between the greenery, there are villages where chickens and pigs roam free, and local produce is sold roadside. In front of each home are open-air fales, which are a great way to cool down and catch up with friends, as well as a place for family to stay when the main house is too full. For those on a budget, some families hire these out to tourists as affordable accommodation.
The next stop was a quick photo at Sopo’aga Falls in Lotofaga Village. The waterfall is stunning and definitely worth a stop. It’s essentially a roadside attraction, with the waterfall just a short walk from the car park. As is common with many natural sites in Samoa, it’s owned by the village, and someone will come to collect a modest entrance fee. These sites often have a public toilet for visitors too, which makes it a great deal all around.
To Sua Ocean Trench is the tourist attraction featured in almost every Samoa tourism brochure and social media post. It’s a beautiful swimming hole surrounded by tropical foliage. It does have one problem – the Giant Ladder of Doom (not its official name but one I decided was apt for the 30m ladder that descends into the idyllic swimming hole). I’m not the most adventurous person and I’m terrified of heights, so this ladder felt like an extreme sport. If you can brave it, though, it’s worth it – the trench has beautiful, crystal-clear waters and is surrounded by rock formations and greenery. I felt like I was swimming in a postcard. In fact, the water and surroundings were so stunning that I momentarily forgot about the ladder.
Our next stop was Lalomanu Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever been to. Perfect white sand, colourful fales dotted along for shade, and the water is just the right temperature for a refreshing swim. We had a barbecue under the shade of a tree, making the experience even more unforgettable. With its natural beauty, Lalomanu truly felt like a slice of paradise.
We kicked off the next day at The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, located in his beautiful family home where the famous author spent the final years of his life. The week before we arrived, they had welcomed King Charles III and Queen Camilla for a dinner and reception.
The home is complete with two fireplaces - much to the amusement of myself, the locals, and no doubt every visitor who spots them. We took a guided tour, which took us through the many rooms of the house, where memorabilia and personal effects were on display. The house is tucked away down a long driveway, surrounded by lush botanical gardens, adding to its peaceful and reflective atmosphere.
Fugalei Fresh Produce Market is the place to go for affordable souvenirs, as well as fresh produce like bananas, taro, and papayas. It’s here you can grab an icy cold coconut with a straw before wandering through the tightly packed market stalls to pick up local handicrafts, trinkets, and keepsakes. It’s acceptable here to haggle on price. I picked up some earrings and Christmas decorations to add to my vast collection.
If you prefer shopping in air-conditioned comfort, Janet’s is the place to be. It’s pricier but offers a much more relaxed shopping experience. The shop has a great selection of souvenirs, such as jewellery, brightly coloured shirts, beauty items, and locally made crafts. I couldn’t resist picking up some Love Pacific Samoan Coconut Oil and was very tempted by some of the handbags and colourful woven fans.
Next to the Fresh Produce Market is a bus station packed with local buses. These wooden-topped vehicles are colourfully painted with open-air windows. They’re all over the island, and I’d been desperate to hop on one. We found one that was doing a loop around the villages and jumped aboard. As soon as it set off, the driver blasted We Like to Party (Venga Bus) at full volume. It was so much fun! The buses seem to run to their own timetable and people popped out of driveways when they heard the music blaring. I loved the chaos of it all.
Locals had mentioned numerous times that we should head over to Savai’i to experience a slower pace. It was laughable at first, considering we were already feeling so relaxed, but I understood what they meant once we arrived.
Savai’i is an easy day trip by ferry – boats can take both vehicles and foot passengers and it only takes an hour. It’s worth upgrading your ticket to include the air-conditioned lounge.
The first stop was the Alofaaga Taga Blowholes. The actual site has a designated line where tourists are supposed to stand, but this was quickly forgotten, and we were given the freedom to get up close to the blowholes - one of the perks of having a local driver, perhaps.
Speaking of drivers, if you book one, don’t forget to shout them a fresh coconut. Watching Eddie pop his into the car’s drink holder really tickled me – such a simple yet amusing moment.
Then it was off to Afu Aau Waterfall for a refreshing dip. Another stunning spot, perfect for swimming and surrounded by lush green foliage. We tried to swim beneath the waterfall, but it quickly became like a resistance pool, so we floated back into the middle to relax and enjoy the serene surroundings. Our driver, who is from the village that hosts this beautiful spot, told us each family in the village takes turns collecting the entrance fee. A small portion of it goes to the village, while the rest is kept by the family. It’s a wonderful way to support the local community while enjoying nature’s beauty.
We couldn’t resist stopping by the Savaia Giant Clam Sanctuary for a final swim before our flight home. The shallow waters made it easy to spot the giant clams, plus there’s a flag marking their location. The clams are a short swim from shore, making them super easy to get to.
We were warned not to touch them, as they snap shut quickly, so I was on high alert. As I floated over a few of these giants, I let out a startled scream. A fellow snorkeller asked if I’d seen a shark. I had to sheepishly admit that I hadn’t spotted a shark, but rather just some clams - the very thing we’d all come to see. Just another of Samoa’s surprises on a trip full of highlights.
GETTING THERE
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Faleolo International Airport with Air NZ in approximately four hours.
DETAILS
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