The new production of "Wicked" in Sydney features Sheridan Adams as Elphaba. Photo / Jeff Busby
The new production of "Wicked" in Sydney features Sheridan Adams as Elphaba. Photo / Jeff Busby
The new Broadway production of Wicked premiering was the key highlight of a visit to Sydney packed with arts and culture discoveries, writes Anna King Shahab
If, like me, you hadn’t really considered Sydney a destination particularly rich in arts and cultural attractions, thinkagain. Destination New South Wales, the government agency for the city’s tourism, is on a mission to put Sydney on the map as the cultural hub of Australia, and it shows. I admit I often head to Sydney with barely a plan in place other than aiming to catch up with friends and family, eat and drink merrily, and maybe hit one of the famous beaches or two for a mooch – I suspect many fellow Kiwis do the same. On my most recent visit, however, I acted like a true tourist, which opened my eyes to the richness of arts and culture Sydney boasts. Here I share my highlights from a 48-hour visit.
The Art Gallery of New South Wales has a new $244 million north wing. Photo / Supplied
Perched in a prime position at the top of the Botanical Gardens overlooking Sydney’s sparkling harbour, the Art Gallery of New South Wales’ original heritage building has a new buddy, the $244 million north wing, which opened in December last year. Juxtaposed against its classical stone-built older sibling, it almost doubles the overall gallery size. I particularly enjoyed the Yiribana Gallery, which showcases works by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artists. If exclusive is your thing, check out Cultural Attractions of Australia’s Night at the Gallery and Yiribana Experience offerings – both include an after-hours guided tour and fine dining menu. A work in progress when I visited and set to open towards the end of this year to physically connect the two buildings, was Wiradjuri and Kamilaroi artist Jonathon Jones’ large-scale living artwork bial gwiyuno (the fire is not yet lighted).
Grab a table at the new gallery’s signature restaurant, Mod Dining by Clayton Wells. The fare is well-balanced, flavoursome, and unfussy yet elegantly presented. Don’t miss the whipped trout roe (trout is a rare treat for Kiwis), and the prawn fritter rolls, Dining overlooked by Kiwi artist Lisa Reihana’s epic moving-image work GROUNDLOOP was a bit special.
From the gallery, it was a pleasant downhill walk through the Botanical Gardens to the Sydney Opera House, to be greeted by tour guide Thomas – warm and knowledgeable, with more than 20 years on the job. We ducked into the various theatre spaces within the building (we even spotted performer Tim Minchin rehearsing for the Opera House’s upcoming 50th birthday) and watched a short film on the fascinating conception and construction of this architectural triumph.
When the day has been filled with visual wonder, how to match that experience for dinner? The view at O Bar and Dining is as beautiful on the plate as it is out of the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the CBD. Chef Michael Moore’s modern Australian fare was beautifully plated, bursting with premium ingredients and flavours that sang. If you’re extra lucky you’ll be served by Frank, who was a front-of-house star for our table, readily offering spot-on recommendations for both food and drinks.
Maybe Sammy ranks among the World's 50 Best Bars. Photo / Supplied
A nightcap at Maybe Sammy rounded off a wonderful day. Up there in the World’s 50 Best Bars, it’s pure fun. We sat at the bar where Wen, decked out in a pale pink double-breasted blazer complete with a red rose on the lapel, charmed with his humour and impeccable timing. Complimentary mini flutes of Champagne came out while bubbles of a soapy kind floated up from behind the bar and we perused the cocktail menu. My Terra Nova – Don Julio Blanco Tequila, Los Siete Misterios Doba-Yej Mezcal, Mole Dulce, Lime, Black Sesame Merengue, Micro Herb – was a great choice, and at around A$24 for a cocktail, it’s not too hard on the pocket.
Sydney Harbour Bridge is a three-hour climb with historical commentary. Photo / Supplied
We couldn’t have picked a better day to climb Sydney Harbour Bridge – although as our guide Alex explained, climbs are cancelled in the case of lightning or extreme winds. On that morning, barely a breeze rustled our special climbing jumpsuits (incredibly comfy, we all agreed), and the sun in the periwinkle sky cast its beneficent gaze over Sydney. The climb takes three hours including the excellently run fitting of gear and safety briefing and takes guests up to the peak of the curve along the eastern side then back along the western. Alex’s commentary, via headsets, was fascinating and included First Nations history. Fun fact: at the opening of the bridge in 1932, a member of a right-wing militia group rode up on horseback to slash the ribbon with a sword and steal the moment from the premier. And, Alex once hosted a 95-year-old climber who, pointing to Cockatoo Island, recalled having been sent there for three years as a teen to attend a school for “misbehaving girls”.
Midden by Mark Olive is a game-changer in indigenous cuisine. Photo / Supplied
Post-climb, a stroll around Circular Quay brought us to our lunch venue, Midden by Mark Olive on the western face of the Opera House building, where we nabbed a table on the terrace looking right back at the bridge. Bundjalung man Olive has created a game-changer: a restaurant showcasing indigenous ingredients in a location famous the world over. The grazing platter boasted NSW regional cheeses, native thyme hummus, smoked kangaroo, emu, lemon myrtle tandoori crocodile, olives, pickled vegetables, marinated artichoke, roasted macadamia nuts, quandong paste, Tasmanian mountain pepper leaf flatbread – and I loved the damper with eucalyptus butter alongside. A surprise hit among the main dishes we shared was the braised wallaby shank with native-infused tomatoes – like Nana’s casserole in a very good way.
The 48 hours culminated in what we had all come for – the “green carpet” premiere of Wicked at Sydney Lyric Theatre in the Star complex in waterfront Pyrmont. Wanting a light and quickish dinner close by, we opted to share a pizza and small plates at Cucina Porto Cucina, right beside the theatre, which turned out to be a delicious choice. With theatre-goers decked out in green fashion to celebrate, filing into the theatre enabled some seriously good people-watching. This was my first time experiencing Wicked and I had been blasting the original cast soundtrack on Spotify in the days prior to familiarise myself with the soundtrack. This new Aussie cast features Sheridan Adams in her breakthrough role as Elphaba and the tale is a prequel of sorts to The Wizard of Oz, tracing the childhood friendship of Elphaba and Glinda, and the events that lead to one becoming the Wicked Witch of the West, the other the Good Witch. Performances were fabulous – Courtney Monsma as Glinda possessed incredible comic skills and a crystalline voice, and Adams’ charming, slightly quirky presence and powerful voice carried the big numbers like Defying Gravity. What a sparkling show – put Wicked in Sydney on your list! Bravo!
Stay - ADGE Hotel and Residences
In a city packed with great areas to base yourself in, Surry Hills stands out – an easy walk to the CBD, the Art Gallery of New South Wales and Botanical Gardens and the waterfront, it’s riddled with amazing bars and eateries. Newly opened ADGE is up the Darlinghurst end making it very convenient for wandering along Oxford St. Staff were welcoming, the groovy design got me in the mood for fun, the bed was dreamy, and I loved breakfasting at Soul Deli on the ground level, which marries eggy brekkie fare with Korean touches.
Sydney's waterfront skyline at night. Photo / Getty Images
Checklist
SYDNEY
GETTING THERE
Air NZ, Qantas, Jetstar and Air Asia all fly direct from Auckland to Sydney International Airport.
