Granada's whitewashed cityscape framed by Alhambra stonework. Photo / Unsplash
When it comes to Spanish cities, Seville gets most of the buzz, but neighbouring Granada is compact, quiet and authentic, writes Rebecca Treon.
Spain’s southernmost region, Andalucia, is known as the birthplace of flamenco, the home of sherry and tapas, and an area with a storied Moorish legacy. As Spain’s third-most visited city, cosmopolitan Seville attracts millions of tourists each year and has a population of more than 700,000. By comparison, Granada has fewer than 250,000 residents, and while it still draws visitors, it has a more authentic, relaxed atmosphere, making it easier to navigate. It’s a scenic two and a half hour train ride to get to Granada from Seville, landing you in the centre of a vibrant city peppered with ancient landmarks, wine bars, artisanal shops and restaurants.
I visited Granada for the second time this year and fell in love with its maze of winding cobblestone streets, its whitewashed buildings with scrolling ironwork, and its tiny shops selling handcrafted goods. While a popular way to see Seville’s top sites is by riding in a horse-drawn buggy, in Granada, most everything is accessible on foot or via a short Uber ride. Granada is best known for its Unesco World Heritage Sites, the Alhambra and Generalife, a former Moorish palace, fortress, and gardens. My visit to Granada was the perfect way to take a few slow-paced days sandwiched between stays in Madrid and Seville.
Granada’s central neighbourhood – the aptly named Centro – features wide pedestrian-friendly footpaths and rock-paved lanes that prohibit motorised vehicles, making it safe to navigate on foot. The streets may seem labyrinthine at first, but after a few hours, it’s easy to figure out. Near Plaza Nueva, Calle Elvira is lined with Middle Eastern restaurants, bakeries and shops selling everything from painted pottery to tile-inlaid furniture. Mercado Alcaiceria is a popular stop. After dark, side alleys come alive as people flock to tapas and wine bars to embrace the convivial Spanish way of life. Circling back toward Plaza Nueva, Calle Gran Vía de Colón is Granada’s main artery. The tree-lined thoroughfare is home to beautiful early 20th century buildings, upscale shops, cafes and restaurants. Nearby, the Royal Chapel and Granada Cathedral are flanked by plazas full of fountains and cafes inviting passersby to stop and relax.
On my first afternoon there, I donned my togs and headed to Hammam al Ándalus, a Turkish-style bathhouse mere steps from El Bañuelo, a bathhouse museum dating back to the 11th century. Hammam al Ándalus was actually a bathhouse during the 15th century, but was converted into a bread bakery when Catholic authorities banned Arab baths after their 1492 conquest of the city. This conversion kept the building in use for the next several centuries, and it reopened in 1998 as a modernised version of the original. The bathhouse’s interior features tiled mosaics, columns, and vaulted ceilings with Arabesque motifs. Soft music played in the background while I soaked in candlelit pools of soothing thermal waters before enjoying mint tea in the steam room. A two-hour session cost about €60 ($120). Feeling tired and relaxed after my session, I got a dozen empanadas to go for about €30 from nearby Luisita’s Empanadas.
A highlight of my visit was watching an evening zambra performance. Granada has one of Spain’s largest communities of Romani people, who migrated to the area in the 15th century. They established themselves in the hills in the Sacromonte neighbourhood, where they made their homes in caves. You can see original dwellings with a visit to the Sacromonte Caves Museum, which features 11 spaces that recreate a historic Romani community. Zambra is a traditional Romani dance born in the Sacromonte neighbourhood, inspired by the dance and music of forbidden Moorish weddings in the 1500s. Over centuries, folkloric zambra evolved into modern-day flamenco. Today, there are several caves that are performance venues for nightly zambra performances, with an option for dinner or drinks. I opted for Cueva de la Rocío, where the evening cost me around €30.
After a hearty breakfast at Artesanos de Granada Plaza Nueva, I visited the city’s most popular tourist attraction, the Alhambra, a former Moorish palace, and Generalife, the adjoining grounds and gardens. The Alhambra is one of the most famous monuments in Islamic architecture. Constructed in the 11th century by the first Nasrid emir, it became the royal palace and fortress with a city inside its walls. Breathtaking is an understatement when describing the intricate tilework, ceiling details, courtyards, fountains and sprawling gardens. Make your ticket and tour reservations online well in advance of your trip and plan to spend at least three hours exploring. It’s impossible to avoid people while visiting, but reserving the earliest possible time slot helps beat the heat and the crowds. After my visit, I had a late lunch at the popular El Huerto de Juan Ranas, where they serve authentic paella with a large terrace overlooking the Alhambra – touristy to be sure, but I enjoyed it anyway.
In the heart of Andalucia, Granada offers all the passion, drama and flavour of its big sister city, Seville, but at a slower pace. It’s the ideal place to take a break between exploring bigger cities. I spent three days there, but outdoors enthusiasts could easily extend their visit to take advantage of nearby Sierra Nevada Ski Resort and Sierra Nevada National Park.
Getting there
From Madrid’s Puerto de Atocha station, a direct train to Granada takes three and a half hours. Reservations are required and first-class seats are €16 each way. From Seville, a direct train to Granada takes two and a half hours. Reservations are required and first-class seats are about €30 each way. There are also upscale buses and private car services, like Daytrip, which I used.
Where to stay
Granada has many options when it comes to accommodations, from five-star hotels in former monasteries (like the Hotel Palacio de Santa Paula) to iconic luxury hotels like the Alhambra Palace Hotel, but there are more affordable options like the Boutique Hotel Luna or Airbnbs.
The writer travelled independently.