KEY POINTS:
Priscilla had her nose in a bucket when we met. It was breakfast time, a bit chilly, and she was pretty underwhelmed by the fact that she was to be my guide along 20km of private, pristine beachfront on the Capricorn Coast. Her boss, Jill, interrupted her with
a nudge - she eyed me through her fringe then put her nose back in the bucket.
Jill told me this giant mare Priscilla was named after the famed drag queen. As I flung myself rather inelegantly on to her saddle I quietly prayed she didn't turn out to be as flamboyant as her Queen of the Desert namesake.
My prayers were answered. After a few lessons in steering and stopping this grey beauty, she lolloped off at a leisurely pace through coastal dunes and down on to the beach, which we had to ourselves.
It seemed to stretch forever in either direction and the azure-blue sea disappeared into the horizon. Another winter's day had begun on Queensland's Capricorn Coast.
The coast, named because it straddles the Tropic of Capricorn, is a popular stopping-off point for those on the road south from Cairns, but is not so well known for those seeking respite from New Zealand's Arctic winters. Think Queensland and the mind jumps to Brisbane and high-rises on the Gold Coast.
But just over an hour's flight north of Brisbane gets you to Queensland's beef capital, Rockhampton, and after a 30-minute drive you're in the tranquil little seaside town of Yeppoon. Its beach is just one of 13 that dot the coast, all with pure white sand and all seemingly untouched, with barely a high-rise in sight.
Locals say the beaches and townships here are reminiscent of the rawness of Byron Bay and Sydney's Bondi Beach 20 or 30 years ago, and they want to keep them that way.
My Yeppoon base, and Priscilla's home, was Rydges Capricorn Resort, a private development with that 20km stretch of beach. Pick the right day and you have it all to yourself.
The resort is set on 8900ha of world heritage coastal wetlands and rainforest that is home to more than 150 species of birdlife.
In the 1970s, when the Japanese owner bought the land, dams and levees had been built to dry out the region for grazing. Over the years, the owner has returned the land to its natural state and the result is a staggering array of wildlife and semi-tropical rainforest.
Our guide Graham delighted in showing off the wetlands, pointing out the graceful, grey brolga birds, the ibis, herons, black swans, cormorants, hawks and more.
As we drove through the rainforest, he pointed out the lantana, cocky apple trees, paper bark, wattles and banksias.
If you're game enough to try the bush tucker, green ants have a tangy lemon taste, the sticky passionfruit vine is edible, and after your feast you can clean your hands with some leaves from the soap tree.
I returned to my room after a leisurely tour of the resort's manicured grounds and one of two international-standard golf courses - and yes, 'roos were hopping across the green as in the Where-the-bloody-hell-are-you ads.
The view from my hotel-room balcony took in the wetlands, the forest and the sea. Just offshore are the Keppel Bay Islands and the largest of them, Great Keppel, is only 30 minutes by catamaran. On a good day, a glass-bottom boat lets you see the spectacular sealife and coral that makes up part of the Great Barrier Reef.
The island has 17 white-sand beaches and 10 walking tracks.
So far my only brush with wildlife was Priscilla and she fell a little short in the wild department. Crocodiles, that's what I wanted, and the Koorana Crocodile Farm came up trumps.
The farm, a half-hour drive from Yeppoon, is run by conservationist John Lever, who provides a home to 3000 saltwater crocs. The hands-on experience begins with holding a monstrous crocodile skin and ends with an opportunity to hold a baby croc with mouth, thankfully, taped shut.
We see these gigantic beasts in pens that are as close to their natural habitat as is possible - not a centimetre of concrete in sight.
Apparently there's no point climbing a tree to get away from a croc - they can last much longer than we can without food. We're talking months, not days. If they decide you look like you're a danger to them or their eggs, they'll just hang around under that tree and wait for you to fall. And you will, eventually, through fatigue or hunger, or both.
Crocodiles mate during the rainy season but if the female finds there hasn't been enough rain for a protective nest to be built, she will just reabsorb her eggs and wait till next time. They also don't bleed if they're cut and can stay under water for up to four hours.
I came away with a new respect for these primitive beings, and was glad there was a fence between me and them.
An Aussie colleague, ex Rockhampton, told me one of those jokes that appeal to their collective sense of humour: "Where's Yeppoon?" the question goes. "Next to your fork." If Aussies have to ask where it is, we can be excused for not knowing as well.
The Capricorn Coast's remoteness is its charm. For an idea of pre-high rise Gold Coast, head towards Rockhampton then veer right to Yeppoon. It's worth it.
*****************************************************
GETTING THERE
Qantas flies daily to Rockhampton from Brisbane and Sydney. See Virgin Blue and qantaslink for prices.
ACCOMMODATION
Rydges Capricorn Resort offers a range of packages starting at $70. Contact www.rydges.com.au/capricorn
Capricorn Tourism can also provide online bookings. See www.capricornholidays.com.au
ACTIVITIES
The resort has guided beach horseriding, a rainforest canoe trip, and wetlands eco-tour. It also has free activities from tennis and minigolf to kayaks and catamarans, two golf courses and three restaurants, cafes and bars.
The Koorana Crocodile Farm is open daily from 10am-3pm, with tours at 10.30am and 1pm. See www.koorana.com.au
* Patrice Gaffaney travelled to the Capricorn Coast courtesy of Capricorn Tourism and stayed in Yeppoon courtesy of Rydges Capricorn Resort.
