Otago: In the presence of gods

Cosmos Peak towers over cyclists on the Paradise Trail. Photo / Laurence Belcher

Justine Tyerman cycles to Paradise ...

I've always wanted to hang out with Greek gods ... and now I have. I've lunched in their company, walked in their shadow, conversed with them about erudite matters and even slept in their embrace.

They were as beautiful and powerfully structured as I had ever dreamed of, some proud and majestic with crowns upon their heads, others wise and weathered as though sharp nails had scraped deep furrows in their faces.

I was contented just to be in their presence. It made my heart soar to wake up within a necklace of mountains so startling, I had to persuade myself daily that these gods were of the real world, not the stuff of legends.

I looked for them - Pluto, Nox, Amphion, Chaos, Poseidon - as soon as I awoke in the morning, silver with early frost, pink with the sunrise or veiled in diaphanous mist.

I was puzzled why such giants in deepest Fiordland National Park should be named after Greek gods ... some early explorers were evidently fascinated by Greek mythology.

I first saw them as smudges on the distant horizon as we steamed across Lake Wakatipu towards Walter Peak Station on the 102-year-old TSS Earnslaw, our cycles stacked forward, waiting to take us into the heart of the southern-most reaches of the Southern Alps.

It was love at first glimpse, and knowing that every turn of my pedals took me closer to the gods, dulled the ache in my thighs which were more attuned to tramping than cycling. I was especially mesmerised by Chaos, a muscular hunk of a mountain that stood apart from his fellows.

Our four days cycling on the Paradise Trail, skirting the far side of a sparkling Lake Wakatipu on undulating farm tracks in the shade of ancient beech forests, splashing through clear mountain streams, pedalling up the silver-shingled, braided river valleys of the Dart and Rees rivers, encircled by towering snow-capped giants, to a place actually called Paradise, were the closest thing to heaven on earth.

My homage to the gods obviously pleased them because the weather was near perfect. Every day we basked in the late summer sun by alpine lakes, streams and rivers, munching on gourmet morning and afternoon teas and lunches that appeared on tartan rugs as if by magic.

Light drizzle on the day we hiked up the Routeburn Track refreshed the waterfalls and allowed us to give our wet weather gear - lugged all the way from Gisborne - a brief outing. We had tramped the track a few years earlier and my heart was bursting with pride to show it off to our Aussie bike mates.

Paradise Tours' Matt Belcher takes a dip in the chilly Routeburn River. Photo / Paradise Tours

We feasted like the gods every evening. The food before us was divine and far outweighed the calories we burned à bicyclette.

Dinner on the deck at historic Kinloch Lodge, as the sun set over Lake Wakatipu in a cloudless sky challenged the snootiest of big city restaurants.

The lodge has been welcoming travellers to the head of the lake since 1868. The rooms have sumptuous modern beds and bathroom fittings but retain their old world charm.

Historic Kinloch Lodge sits at the head of Lake Wakatipu. Photo / Justine Tyerman

On the menu were grilled New Zealand green-lipped mussels with lemon crumb stuffing; wild venison pot under a pastry lid with buttered baby potatoes; rabbit terrine; seared salmon; slow roasted lamb; spinach, mushroom and feta filo parcel on ratatouille, followed by warm cherry and almond tart; whipped cream and berry coulis; baked cheesecake with blueberry topping and a roasted almond brittle base; and chilled chocolate and lemon tart with frozen white chocolate terrine.

The pizzas we demolished the following evening while soaking up the sun at Glenorchy's famous GYC Cafe, were far tastier than any we had tried before, even in Italy ... not to mention the Terra Sancta Mysterious Diggings Pinot Noir from Bannockburn.

But the pièce de résistance was dinner prepared by highly-entertaining photographer, chef and former producer of the Taste New Zealand television show Laurence Belcher and his bubbly wife Carol, in our own cosy kitchen at the Paradise Homestead.

The foodies in the group were enthralled as Laurence delivered a witty, step-by-step commentary about the ingredients and preparation for the three-course meal.

A feast prepared for the hungry cyclists at Paradise Homestead by Laurence Belcher. Photo / Justine Tyerman

The less food-obsessed had drinks and hors d'oevres by the roaring fire in the lounge with Paradise Trail owner-guides, the delightful Kate and Matt Belcher and the gem of a homestead manager Mandy Groshinski until dinner was ready.

Laurence (yes, that's Matt's father) presented, with great panache, an entrée of hot manuka-smoked South Island salmon followed by a main course of slow cooked Southland lamb shanks with braised garlic and rosemary, minted jersey benne potatoes, marinated roast vegetables, Rees Valley watercress and rocket salad, and tossed garden salad with homemade vinaigrette dressing, and a dessert of apple and wild blackberry crumble served with cream and yoghurt ... utterly delicious.

Sadly the kitchen, lounge and dining room are no longer there. The homestead was struck by lightning on May 24 of last year, igniting a fire that reduced that part of the historic building to rubble. Perhaps Zeus felt upstaged by the other gods in Paradise?

However, the Paradise Trust that runs the homestead worked tirelessly to ensure a high standard of accommodation was in place by November, and Matt and Kate say it's business as usual for the 2014-15 season.

I felt a profound sense of grief when I saw the homestead ablaze on the television news, imagining flames devouring the historic landscape paintings, photographs and books in the lounge and hallway, the long elegant dining table and fabulous kitchen with its original coal range and huge handsome gas range. I loved that place and the history it represented.

Built as a guest house in the 1880s, the homestead was donated to the Paradise Trust by its owner, the late David Miller, in 1998 and had been beautifully restored to its former grandeur ... but with modern conveniences.

Much of the historic Paradise Homestead was destroyed by fire in 2014 but tours are going ahead as planned this season in alternative accommodation on site. Photo / Justine Tyerman

Despite its remoteness, the magnetism of Paradise was drawing adventurous travellers as far back as the 1890s when hundreds came up Lake Wakatipu by steamer and then by dray and coach to Paradise Homestead where owner Granny Aitken used to feed 120 for lunch and often have 28 overnight guests.

Before leaving, we explored the vast property, met Mandy's 'family' - a sociable goat, a peacock, a flock of overgrown pet lambs, two Jack Russells and Grumpie Ernie the horse - and discovered five quaint candle-powered cottages dotted amongst the trees with outside, wood-fire heated baths for those wanting a real rustic wilderness experience.

A huge white marquee had been erected on the lawn in front of the homestead, ready for a wedding at the weekend. I wanted to stay and gatecrash the celebrations.

Our last day dawned so crisp, bright and clear, it made my eyes water. After cycling to road's end and hiking to our lunch spot on the Rees-Dart Track, we drove the spectacular road back to Queenstown along the edge of Lake Wakatipu.

The Bryneira Range, with Mt Chaos in the foreground and Mt Poseidon in the background. Photo / Laurence Belcher

Matt pointed out the track we had ridden a few days earlier on the far side of the lake and stopped the van at a lookout for us to take last photos of the mirror lake and my mountain gods in their Paradise, bathed in sunshine on another clear, cloudless day.

Helios was well-pleased.

CHECKLIST

The four-day, three-night, fully-guided Paradise Trail with Revolution Tours departs from Queenstown and covers 70 kilometres by bike over three days. It also includes a one-day hike up the Routeburn Track.

Justine Tyerman was a guest of Revolution Tours.