The river city is a sitter to become a great New Zealand bike town, writes Sarah Bennett
ELEVATOR PITCH
Whanganui's elevator pitch is literally an elevator, namely the historic Durie Hill elevator that is both an essential visitor attraction and a legitimate form of transport. Can the same be saidfor its cycle trails?
The city's official website proclaims a "close association with cycling" and hopes it can reverse a decline in commuter cycling by building "a network of future-proofed shared pathways".
A decline? I might feel quite deflated if it weren't for the fact that I'm already familiar with the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail and a bunch of other Whanganui rides, so I know there's some good riding to be had around here.
Local Tracy Marshall agrees. "Whanganui is a great place for cycling," she says. "You could easily spend a couple of days seeing art and other attractions by bike."
Tracy runs scenic and cycling tours, and says that progress is being made. "I was born and bred here, and back then we cycled everywhere," says Tracy. "Between new city cycle lanes, mountain bike parks and improvements to the Mountains to Sea Ngā Ara Tūhono Cycle Trail, we're definitely heading in the right direction."
Bastia Hill Watertower and Mt Ruapehu from Durie Hill. Photo / Lee Slater
THE LAY OF THE LAND
The Whanganui River is the city's life force. It's Aotearoa's longest navigable river, meandering from Mt Tongariro on the volcanic plateau to the Tasman Sea coast where you'll find Whanganui city sitting pretty.
Mostly flat with a couple of low hills, it's lined with broad roads in a vaguely grid-like pattern. Arterial roads route through-traffic somewhat outside of the CBD, which is relatively quiet but makes the classic error of prioritising car parks over pedestrians and cyclists.
The riverside i-Site sits in the thick of cafes and galleries, and stocks the free Tourist Map, which is good on overview but light on cycling detail. The helpful Walking & Cycling Guide details bike parks such as Hylton Park and Araheke, both well worth a look if you like lumpy, off-road riding. The same info sits on Discover Whanganui's website.
The Mountains to Sea Great Ride has its own website detailing various adventures across the Whanganui and Ruapehu regions. Wayfinding signage is well positioned and clear.
Not your average roadside planting at arty Castlecliff. Photo / Lee Slater
A TOWN TOUR
A great riverside ride is a given thanks to the Mountains to Sea trail that stretches from the salty, seaside suburb of Castlecliff all the way to Pipiriki before heading further upriver by jet boat and then more cycle trail up to Mt Ruapehu.
An easy leg for city visitors is the return ride to Upokongaro which boasts a handsome new pedestrian bridge across the river plus a lovely country cafe, Behind the Door on 4 (and a soon-to-open gin distillery). It's a leisurely 26km return journey, with e-bikes available to hire in town from EBikes Whanganui and Velo Ronnies.
Heading downriver from the CBD, it's a 12km return ride to the coast via a mash-up of waterside pathway and backstreets. It's an interesting wee ride, not least of all for the port and North Mole breakwater area – now known as Te Pūwaha – currently being revamped.
The area here is Castlecliff, home to Citadel Cafe, which is an essential stop for any visitor or fan of a succulent garden.
FURTHER AFIELD
A longer excursion on the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail can be enjoyed by starting at Pipiriki and cycling downriver via the Whanganui River Road, a mostly easy ride rich in history. Whanganui Tours offers shuttle transport or an overnight package staying in riverside accommodation.
That Place is Whanganui's new, privately owned MTB park. Around half an hour's drive upriver on a family farm, it's rural idyll with expertly built trails care of Tom Osken. We absolutely loved our run up No Regerts and down Phibilie Jiblets, and keenly anticipate returning to ride the leisurely River Loop and reconnect with the locals.
GETTING HIGH
The historic Durie Hill elevator is a fabulous time capsule complete with analogue knobs, a clackety rattle, and a real-live lift attendant who will issue your two-dollar ticket for the 66m ride. Bonuses include wandering down the Dr Who tunnel, snippets of city history, and of course the panoramas from either the elevator viewing platform or (even better) the top of the Durie Hill War Memorial Tower alongside.
CHOWING DOWN
Locals tell us their food scene is slowly on the up. We weekenders easily found satisfaction, most notably at Maria Lane, an old city short-cut cleverly rebuilt as a super-groovy restaurant with exposed brick and an unusual sloping floor. We loved the contemporary, upmarket kai and convivial vibe.
Porridge Watson pub-cum-community-clubroom was so good we went back for seconds. First, a fantastic local comedy club night, then back again on Saturday for the house band and DJ. Among many merits are a fashionable upcycled vibe, good beer, a deliciously greasy brisket toastie, roaring log fire and a courtyard.
DON'T MISS
Sifting around. There's a lot to see. Get yourself a gallery map from the i-Site then take to the streets to see why Whanganui is now a Unesco City of Design. It has some very cool buildings, great street art and lots of indie shops. Short on time? Wander around the Drews Lane area and pop into Article for coffee and a browse around its eclectic, op-shop shelves.
HAZARDS & CAUTIONS
Riding from city corner to corner involves quite a bit of on-road riding, which didn't feel particularly dangerous but we could have used a better urban cycling map.
BIKE TOWN RATING
The official visitor guide states that "Whanganui is a bikers' paradise", but we'd say it "could be". A small city with wide roads, gentle climbs and a river running through it, it's a sitter to become a great New Zealand bike town. The Mountains to Sea Great Ride is clearly leading the charge, for visitors and locals alike. A bunch of good cross-city connectors will undoubtedly help.
