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Home / Travel

Matariki on Scott Base and Antarctica midwinter traditions

Thomas Bywater
By Thomas Bywater
Writer and Multimedia Producer·NZ Herald·
22 Jun, 2022 04:50 AM5 mins to read

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Midwinter is a celebration unique to Antarctica and one few people get to experience. It is marked over the week closest to the winter solstice, and like any holiday there are traditions, fun and games.

The skeleton crew at Scott Base look forward to the arrival of June 21 every year.

The term "mad scientists" is politically incorrect, but not a bad description for the team of between 12 to 16 people who man the base during the dark months. Only a handful of researchers are housekeepers are among those left behind on the world's longest night watch.

You need something to look forward to, says Jane Hamill, the lead conservator for the Antarctic Heritage Trust.

"Here on Scott Base we haven't seen the sun since April. It doesn't rise again until the 19th of August," she says. "It can be challenging to keep high spirits when people are so far away from the sun and their folks back home."

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This year there are 16 in Scott Base's overwinter crew, including 4 conservators from the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Photo / Stu Shaw, Fly on the wall images
This year there are 16 in Scott Base's overwinter crew, including 4 conservators from the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Photo / Stu Shaw, Fly on the wall images

This year she is part of a team of four conservators who are making repairs to artefacts on the Scott base

There is also the added excitement of a new holiday on the New Zealand outpost.

There are no Matariki stars in Antarctica. The Pleiades are not visible as far south as the continent. However those lucky - or unlucky - enough to experience the five months of night in the polar region have been celebrating passing the longest night for the last 110 years.

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'Merry Midwinter': 1911 the first Midwinter meal with Captain Scott's expedition team. Photo / Antarctic Heritage Trust
'Merry Midwinter': 1911 the first Midwinter meal with Captain Scott's expedition team. Photo / Antarctic Heritage Trust

"As far back as when Scott and Shackleton spent their winters in Antarctica they've celebrated the solstice," says Hamill.

Phoning home might not have been an option for the early explorers, and their conditions decidedly more bleak, today explorers posted in the white continent still feel the same pressures, sub-freezing temperatures and months of isolation.

Traditions like the midwinter supper are ways to keep teams in good spirits.

They're expecting 50 visitors for dinner from the nearby US base at McMurdo on Saturday.

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It's only fair, says Hamill, as the Americans invited them to their meal the previous weekend. The two polar programmes are separated by a 3km journey across the ice.

"Many of the early expeditions made the earliest scientific observations down here, so we've got things like test tubes and photographic equipment to restore," she says.

"Some of the earliest photos were taken in Scotts huts back in 1910."

Like a direct through-line there are still pictures of Scott's party - looking worse for wear - building decorations out of Skua feathers, champagne bottles and bunting.

"We are very merry and indeed why not?" Notes the explorer's log.

"The sun turns to come back to us to-night, and such a day comes only once a year."

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Fittingly, the midwinter photo is another tradition for Scott Base. On the wall of the base canteen are "survivors' photos" going back to the first winter in 1957 and the arrival of Hillary's hut.

This 'wall of fame' holds pride of place in one of the busiest part of the base, the crew mess. As with every year, the team's photo will go next to the others. It's possibly the longest-going tradition in the continent without any indigenous human inhabitants.

It is one that they hope will carry on into Antarctica New Zealand's new base, when it's transferred to the ice over the coming years.

The Scott Base overwinter photo wall is Antarctica's longest running tradition.  Photo / Stu Shaw, Fly on the wall images
The Scott Base overwinter photo wall is Antarctica's longest running tradition. Photo / Stu Shaw, Fly on the wall images

Weirdest Midwinter Traditions

The Polar Plunge
Many bases take part in a baptism of ice. Stripping down, heading outside and jumping into the south sea is a popular tradition at Midwinter. Though few do it more than once! At Scott Base, Mawson and McMurdo a hole is often cut in the ice in preparation. The water is not as cold as you might expect, staying just above freezing.

Presents from home
There is no regular post service on Antarctica. Especially in June. However some overwinterers are packed off with presents or have gifts sent out to the base leader during the summer. Since the first arrival of phone lines it's been a popular time to call home. Phone fact: calls to Scott Base are charged at the same rate as calls within New Zealand.
It's common for the PM and other world leaders to send their best wishes to the overwinterers by telegram, phone or - nowadays - zoom link.

It's cold outside: The Scott Base overwinter team will be welcoming 50 US guests for Midwinter dinner. Photo / Stu Shaw, Fly on the wall images
It's cold outside: The Scott Base overwinter team will be welcoming 50 US guests for Midwinter dinner. Photo / Stu Shaw, Fly on the wall images

The Thing
Just as there are holiday films that get wheeled out every Christmas, Midwinter has its own festive favourites. Home Alone and a
John Carpenter's 1982 horror film set on an Antarctic research base, The Thing is a regular.
"It's not Midwinter without a screening of The Thing," says Aurelia Reichardt, manager of the Bonner Marine Lab at Rothera Base.

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"Midwinter celebrations have a very long tradition. Imagine it's a bit like the anticipation of Christmas," she told the BBC.

"I still get goosebumps thinking back to winter."

Midwinter meal
Special rations are often saved for midwinter and menus printed for the occasion.
"Our chef has been preparing the four course meal all week," says Hamill.

However exactly what is being served will be a secret until the night. Favourites include Christmas pudding and pavlova.

BBC World Service
"Good evening, Antarctica…"
New Zealand and America aren't the only countries with overwinter teams, left on the ice.

Every June 21, the BBC World Service broadcasts a special programme for the benefit of the couple of the 30 people at the four BAS bases on the continent.

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Of course the musical variety programme with messages from family is picked up across the continent. Amateur radio enthusiasts around the world will try to tune in, although in the age of web players it's easier to pick up.

You can hear this year's broadcast online

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