Valletta's city centre is known for its medieval architecture. Photo / 123rf
Valletta's city centre is known for its medieval architecture. Photo / 123rf
Brett Atkinson spends 48 hours in Malta's compact capital city, Valletta
Day 1
8.30am
Kick off with organic and fair trade coffee at Lot Sixty One, widely regarded as Malta's best coffee roasters. There's always a good selection of breakfast pastries, and views down Old Theatre St from Lot Sixty One's outdoor tables include the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean.
9.30am Begin an exploration of Valletta's compact cityscape – at just 0.6sq km it's the European Union's smallest capital city – amid the exuberant baroque interior of St John's Co- Cathedral. Ecclesiastical treasures include a room-dominating painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. Built between 1573 and 1578, Malta's most impressive church was where the Knights of St John worshipped during their rule until 1798.
The opulent interior of St John's Co-Cathedral. Photo / 123rf
12.30pm Negotiate honey-coloured piazzas around 500m northeast along Valletta's slender peninsula to Nenu the Artisan Baker. A decades-old woodfired oven turns out fine examples of ftira, Malta's traditional flatbreads topped with olives, herbs and capers.
2pm Inspired by Valletta's tenure as a European Capital of Culture in 2018, recent additions to the city's architectural heritage include MUZA, housed in the former home of Italian knights, and now regarded as one of Europe's best fine arts museums. Nearby, contemporary masterpieces by Italian architect Renzo Piano include Valletta's leviathan City Gate, and Malta's spectacular Parliament Buildings, both completed in 2014.
4pm Secure a spot on the terrace at the Upper Barraka Gardens for the 4pm ceremonial firing of the Saluting Battery, a series of cannons that traditionally fired salutes to visiting naval vessels. Views from the colonnaded gardens extend across Grand Harbour to Fort St Angelo and the labyrinthine laneways of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, known collectively as the Three Cities.
The harbour at Valletta, which is the smallest capital city in the European Union. Photo / 123rf
6pm Adjourn for a pre-dinner drink at 67 Kapitali, a popular Valletta bar serving craft beers from Lord Chambray Brewery on Malta's smaller and quieter second island of Gozo. Year- round beers include their refreshing Blue Lagoon witbier, while seasonal specials could feature a hearty brown ale crafted with foraged wild fennel.
7.30pm Descend into Noni's centuries-old, stone-walled dining room where Michelin-starred surprises could include slow-cooked octopus with Israeli couscous, or confit rabbit with poached figs. The stellar wine list features wines from Gozo's sunbaked and surprising vineyards.
Day 2
8.30am
Start the day with coffee, fruit salad with yoghurt and cold-pressed juices at No 43,
a popular spot owned by Maltese-Australians, and bringing Down Under cosmopolitan cafe style to the historic streets of Valletta.
9.30am Explore millennia of Maltese history at the National Museum of Archaeology. Highlights include stone tools from 7000 years ago, and meticulously carved statues and figurines from Malta's Neolithic sites and ancient rock temples.
12.30pm Line up with in-the-know locals for Malta's most popular savoury snacks at Malta Pastizzi, freshly-baked and crammed with ingredients including ricotta cheese, peas, mushroom and chicken. Besides the nation's beloved pastizzi, other snackable, on-the-go options include qassata, more robust pastry pockets crammed with spinach and cheese.
The city's historic streets are perfect for exploring. Photo / 123rf
2pm Book ahead for a guided 50-minute tour through the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, a fascinating subterranean necropolis dating back to 3500 BC. Pre-booking online with Heritage Malta is essential, but last-minute tickets are sometimes available at the National War Museum in Valletta's Fort St Elmo. To reach the Hypogeum, catch bus 1, 2 or 3 from the Valletta Bus Station to Pjazza Paola (around 15 minutes).
4pm Explore Malta's expanding modern arts scene – also a legacy of Valletta's recent time in sun as a European Capital of Culture – at Valletta Contemporary, opened in 2018 in a multi-level space now inspiring the urban rehabilitation of formerly rundown Triq il-Levant ("East St"). Another nearby contemporary art space worth checking out is Blitz Valletta.
7pm Gins from around the world, Spanish-inspired tapas and occasional live jazz and opera – both performed streetside and al fresco – all feature at Yard 32 at the western end of Strait St. Valletta's most narrow street was once the infamous haunt of sailors on shore leave, but in recent years the improbably slender 4m x 700m thoroughfare has been re- energised with bistros, bars and art galleries.
Malta receives direct flights from many European cities including Rome, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Paris and Frankfurt. Low-cost fares from London or Manchester with EasyJet are a good-value option if you're visiting the UK. Car ferries link Valletta with southeastern Sicily (three hours and 15 minutes).
Where to stay Designed and owned by a renowned Maltese architect, Valletta Vintage offers stylishly retro studios and apartments in restored 18th-century townhouses throughout the old town.
