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Home / Travel

New Zealand’s best ski fields according to experts with over 1m vertical metres a season

Thomas Bywater
By Thomas Bywater
Writer and Multimedia Producer·NZ Herald·
27 Jun, 2023 07:42 AM7 mins to read

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This winter the Herald Travel is searching from high to low for New Zealand’s best ski field.

This winter we are asking Kiwis to vote for their favourite New Zealand ski fields and most memorable runs.

1 million metres is a lot of skiing. The equivalent of descending 113 times down Everest, it’s something very few achieve in a season.

We ask the local experts and enthusiasts who have spent the most time on the the mountain of anyone, why their favourite mountains should be named New Zealand’s Best Ski Field 2023.

Here’s how to make the most of a season pass.

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NATALIE URBANI, QUEENSTOWN - REMARKABLES AND CORONET PEAK

Natalie from Queenstown is an obsessive skier who holds the record in vertical metres in the Lakes fields. This year she was first on the lifts at both the Remarkables Curvey Basin and Coronet Express this year.

I’ve been skiing for the past 30 years and have around six or seven “first on chair” T-shirts.

Last season I racked up more than 1,253,446 vertical metres, a record at NZ Ski fields and the most in the country. I work in the Hilton Queenstown cleaning public areas. I don’t start until 3.30pm so I’ve got the whole morning to ski.

Unlike other jobs in Queenstown, there are no subsidies or free lift passes, I do it because I love it. I go every day I can. I was there for opening day at both mountains this year. Unlike last year, when it was wall to wall, the snow is a bit late but the queues are heaving. We’ve got the start of the School holidays here for Australia and New Zealand starting this weekend.

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10 Days in, this season I’ve already done 65,376 metres and 285 runs.

Coronet Peak is a mid-level mountain for more expert skiers. It’s got a lot steeper terrain. The Remarkables are a lot flatter in the learner area but in the holidays there can be queues for miles.

Favourite Ski Run: The Hurdle into Shirt Front starts as a really enjoyable black, a good steep one for downhill. Or the Exchange Drop is another challenging one. You won’t find crowds up there. At the Remarks, the Curvy Trail off the Curvey Basin lift is a really enjoyable blue.

Natalie Urbani from Queenstown is an obesssive skier who has already clocked up 60,000 vertical metres this season - and two 'first on chair' shirts. Photo / Supplied, Natalie Urbani
Natalie Urbani from Queenstown is an obesssive skier who has already clocked up 60,000 vertical metres this season - and two 'first on chair' shirts. Photo / Supplied, Natalie Urbani

JANELLE HINCH, RUAPEHU - TUROA

Mountain transplant Janelle moved to her ‘magical place’ from Auckland as a life-long snowboard fan. She runs Opus Fresh, a merino clothing shop in Ohakune and is a regional councillor for Ruapehu.

I love to ski the hill at Turoa. We’re very lucky to have the three-slope here, Turoa, Whakapapa and the club field Tukino.

I run a merino wool clothing store in Ohakune. I grew up skiing here, and have been coming on holiday from Auckland since I was 5 years old. It’s my happy place. But in winter the whole atmosphere changes. It’s just magic.

Everybody’s on holiday so they’re in the best mood.

We’re extremely privileged to be able to ski on an actual volcano. It’s got a special feeling. “It’s alive!”

Similarly at the end of the Turoa road is extremely lively. The Junction’s bars and restaurants offer amazing après ski. With open fires and a feeling you just don’t get in the city.

Ohakune punches well above its weight for a number of events that tie the town to the ski field. The Peak to Powderkeg is a ski, run and bike to the local pub.

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Favourite Ski Run: I really like the “Why Nots”, they’re full of naturally formed gulleys with jumps and all kinds of fun. I also like snowboarding the backcountry. With every year the weather changes in the backcountry. What can be a roller one week can become a cliff drop. To have that kind of terrain and lift access is really neat.

Turkino, the club field around the corner, does all sorts of neat stuff with cat skiing and people-powered touring.

As a Ruapehu district councillor, for a very tight-knit community and though there’s some sibling rivalry, we work together. Everybody is here because they love the mountain.

Turoa near Ohakune is one of three ski fields on the North Island's volcanic Mt Ruapehu. Photo / File
Turoa near Ohakune is one of three ski fields on the North Island's volcanic Mt Ruapehu. Photo / File

JOHN DUNNE, CASTLE HILL - THE CRAIGIEBURNS

Retired broadcaster and Castle Hill resident John Dunne is a local hero for the clubbies, volunteering at Porters Ski Field.

At 68 I’m probably the oldest instructor in these hills. The Craigieburn range is the traditional home for alpine skiing in Canterbury. Mt Hutt (which is celebrating its 50th birthday) was relatively late to the scene. Cheeseman which was founded in 1929 has been around longer than even most of Queenstown.

Each offers something a little different, which is why they’re still going as the epicentre of winter sports.

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It’s much easier and closer to get to Porters out of Christchurch, don’t let Mt Hutt tell you otherwise.

Some club fields do require some voluntary input, and work in the summer months to keep them going, but they inspire passion. Most offer day passes for visitors.

It keeps people coming back. Miguel and Nico Porteous still ski in the Craigieburn. Free skier Glenn Plake has a soft spot for Craigieburn too.

I’ve had a house in Castle Hill for the past 30 years, living full time there for five. I’d love to welcome more people to “The Great Alpine Highway No 73!”

Favourite Ski Run / Club Fields: If you’re after a challenge, Temple Basin and Mt Olympus.

Craigieburn is a good all rounder. Cheeseman is a beautiful family ski field, but Porters - with a good covering of snow - is the best skiing in the country.

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John 'Dunny' Dunne, skiing with granddaughters Josie and Mac at Porters ski field, Canterbury. Photo / Supplied, John Dunne
John 'Dunny' Dunne, skiing with granddaughters Josie and Mac at Porters ski field, Canterbury. Photo / Supplied, John Dunne

MIKE UNGER, CHRISTCHURCH - MT HUTT

Former Owner of Victoria Ski Sport in Christchurch and Mt Hutt record holder, Mike Unger made history at NZ Ski’s Canterbury field.

It was the end of a great season in 2019. I had just retired and had nothing better to do. That year I broke the record as the first person to make over 1 million vertical metres at Mt Hutt. I went to the office because my pass had stopped working and there was area manager JMac with a bottle of champagne.

I was out for open day this year. Late starts are not that uncommon. We’ve been spoilt the last couple of years. There was limited skiing but it was a great social day, catching up with people you only see so often.

People that are there skiing or snowboarding are there because they want to be there and It’s nice to be around happy people. It’s the reason I went into business and retail.

At Mt Hutt there is a bit of everything. Beginner, intermediate and alpine right up in the mountain on the edge of the southern alps. When it comes to Canterbury ski fields, everyone has their favourites and they all have their little quirks. Mt Hutt is just really easy. I’ve got five grandkids just kicking off on their own skis and it’s really good for that. There’s a magic carpet and a safe wide learner slope.

Favourite Ski Run: From the top of the mountain head towards the South Face Traverse to Jan’s Face coming back into the Muesli Bowl - when the snow is good it takes in the whole mountain, top to bottom. It takes you from the South Face boundary to the main bowl with the Canterbury plains nestled below and views out to the Pacific. It’s really special.

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Mike Unger broke the record for vertical metres at Mt Hutt in 2019, recording over 1 million vertical metres. Photo / Supplied, Mike Unger
Mike Unger broke the record for vertical metres at Mt Hutt in 2019, recording over 1 million vertical metres. Photo / Supplied, Mike Unger
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