Nuanu Creative City combines Balinese culture, arts, and cutting-edge design in an idyllic beachside location. Photo / Old Mate Media
Chris Stead takes a tour of Bali’s latest destination for culture, the arts and relaxation - the Nuanu Creative City.
There’s a lot more to Bali than Bintang and bargains. It’s also a land steeped in a storied, rich, cultural heritage. A place where art thrives in valleys hidden within stark mountainous relief. It’s easy to forget that sometimes, given its popularity as a tropical beach getaway.
We go to Kuta to party, Nusa Dua to relax, Seminyak to surf, Ubud for adventure, but where to for culture? And what is modern Balinese culture anyway, given the diverse influx of ex-pats?
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I ponder these questions as I weave between rice paddies. Two hours from Denpasar airport, just west of Canggu, I’m drawn to two beacons on the horizon. One, a massive rattan tower, and the other an imposing metallic sculpture of a pregnant woman in lotus pose overlooking the beach.
It’s Nuanu, the creative city. Built from the ground up, it’s hoping to become Bali’s new cultural hotspot. A destination for those who want the Bali beachside experience, while immersing themselves in the tastes, music, art, spirituality and architecture of Balinese culture. At least, as seen through a Western lens.
It’s not finished yet, but it is open and you can go there right now. To stay, or just to play.
So, what’s it like?
The sense of wonder is immediate. Daniel Popper’s Earth Sentinels (two colossal busts constructed from concrete that serve as a gateway) greet you as an electric buggy carries guests from the parking lot into the precinct. Two giant serene faces that look down upon those who enter during the day, brought to life with light at night. Every building you pass is an architectural statement. Visitors meander between them with a carefree celebration of life and joy one might associate with a hippie commune.
But modernised.
“Nu-anu” is Balinese for “in the process” and the city hopes to be on a continuous journey of bringing creators, leaders, entrepreneurs and explorers into a singular collaborative space where they can be inspired to live in harmony with the planet and each other. Lofty goals, indeed.
Across its 44ha, various outposts have emerged, catering to art, education, wellness, relaxation, culture, community, music and more, all heightened by tip-of-the-spear technological wizardry. It’s bankrolled by Russian multimillionaire Sergey Solonin to the tune of NZ$570million, as well as investment from multiple countries spanning Europe, Asia and Australia. Each outpost is its own franchise, run independently.
It means Nuanu is more a state of mind than a place.
The main attraction at present is the stunning Luna Beach Club. Perched upon a cliff overlooking the ocean, you enter through the gorgeous 369 Restaurant, built from twisted wood that curves up into the sky. In its centre, a large crystal is housed in a tree hollow and when you touch it, it glows and emanates a sound.
Delicious fine dining is offered here, with the southern wall opening up into an intricate pool, dressed with arched bridges, spas, floating pillows and little islands. Couples, kids and partiers fill the multitude of lounges, soaking in the sun.
To the left, the huge THK tower twists into the air. A tribute to Bali’s ancient Tri Hita Karana philosophy, it’s a modern architectural marvel designed by French visionary Arthur Mamou-Mani. At night, AI transforms it into a multimedia spectacle, giving history a modern voice. Straight ahead, a waterslide takes you down to the adults-only Cave Club, an infinity pool cut into the rock.
To the right, an amphitheatre of sunloungers looks down on to a stage where a DJ plays chilled-out house music. It’s above this stage that Alexander Milov’s The Birth of a New World sculpture looms large. The lotus pose brings a sense of peace to the world as the sun sets through its metal bars.
Beyond that, you’ll find the stunning private event space, Elysium. Then the Luna Beer Garden, which has a surprisingly large selection of craft beers on tap, and more pub-like food.
Luna is truly jaw-dropping. As long as you’re happy with the music, here you’ll find one of the best places in the world to drink, eat, swim and be merry. As well as a sunset to die for.
Currently, entry to Nuanu is free and there’s always something unfolding. Regular markets are held at Ash, a large building a little way back from the beach. Like everything at Nuanu, the construction is in itself a piece of art. Bursting with food, handmade wonders, and plenty to do for the kids, it’s got a great family-friendly atmosphere.
There’s the incredible Lumeira, a spa sunk into the jungle with mud-like domes, a gorgeous amphitheatre and an infinity pool. The sauna and steam treatment are particularly special, and the overall build quality is super luxe.
At the elegant, airy Longhouse, you’ll find a cultural centre with art exhibitions. Elsewhere there is an alpaca farm, insect nursery, art village, recycling factory, multiple schools and more.
I was particularly fond of the Aurora Media Park, a bushwalk of sorts, where multimedia light shows, lasers, sounds and motion-detected wonders emerge from the thick bushes at night. It’s modern magic and a sensory wonder.
There’s already so much at Nuanu that demands to be experienced by those who will appreciate the art at every turn - be it in the architecture, the music or the modern technology - and the “hippie luxe” vibe. The quality bar is high and the scale opulent, yet you’re encouraged to put on fairy wings, paint your face and dance through it without shoes.
There’s still plenty of construction going on and more to come. Accommodation on site is limited at present with the incredible hobbit-like domes of the Labyrinth the only truly magical place to stay. That will change when the stunning luxury boutique hotel Oshom is completed. But most guests I encountered were on day trips from further afield.
Other issues also need to be ironed out. The parking lot is struggling with its growing popularity. There’s a conflict between the competing franchises and Nuanu’s identity. And it was jarring how everything was run by ex-pats.
But Nuanu’s continuous journey is already worth the ride, I’m just not sure it’s a celebration of Balinese culture. Instead, it feels like a place where many cultures collide, collude and condense under an Indonesian flag into something new. Something celebrated in Nuanu.
GETTING THERE
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Denpasar International Airport (the main international airport of Bali) with Air NZ in approx. 8.5 hours.
Nuanu is a 1 hour, 20 minute drive north of the airport.
DETAILS
From skipping the queues to planning your parade spot, here's all you need to know.