Kayaking around the Tasman Peninsula unveils its natural wonders.
Dani Wright gains a different perspective - and multiple lifelong memories - on the Tasman Peninsula’s famous Three Capes, albeit via an intrepid four-day kayak tour with Southern Sea Ventures
Immersed in nature, with nothing but the sounds of paddles dipping in and out of the rolling ocean swell or cutting through glassy water in a calm cove, a kayak trip is like walking around the neighbourhood rather than driving: it’s slow, mindful and has a surprise around every corner. But it’s not without its challenges.
Kayak guide Elijah drives our group of seven across Eaglehawk Neck, a tiny strip of land attaching the Tasman Peninsula to the Tasmanian mainland.
Once, it was lined with dogs stopping convicts from escaping. Today, it’s welcoming us on to the peninsula for the first of our four-day Three Capes Paddle kayak tour, staying each night in lodge accommodation.
Oyster shells and twigs from the surrounding forest line the soft, white sand underfoot as we push double kayaks out through clear Stewart’s Bay water towards Stinking Bay and then further out to sea.
Elijah and fellow guide Danika lead us one kayak at a time into a passage in the rocks, with water rising and falling. We wonder if we will be pushed on to the rocks, but instead the water lifts us up and drops us down gently, filling us with awe as we interact with the sea’s natural rhythms.
We moor for lunch at Denman’s Bay, where I head out for a snorkel and spot fish poking their faces through the thick kelp. It’s a starting point for hikers and boatloads of them are dropped here while we eat our ham, cheese and salad rolls.
We paddle across to Port Arthur settlement, with Elijah pointing out the layered buildings on the hill, in order of hierarchy, with the church at the top overseeing everyone below. We might have hurried had it been a bus tour, but, glad to rest our paddling arms, we keep the intriguing stories coming for as long as we can.
Back at the lodge, we enjoy local produce, such as Pagan cider made with Tasmania’s famous apples, Bream Creek Ash Brie, Tasman Sea Salt Crackers and, later, line-caught fish. I fall asleep wondering how my body will react to a full day on the ocean the following day (around 12km paddle distance).
I wake to the sound of lapping waves, happy there are not too many aches and pains. We fuel up with muesli, thick locally made yoghurt and seasonal blueberries with sourdough crumpets.
At Fortescue Bay, within the Tasman National Park, Elijah pulls out his trusty map and prepares us for the paddle ahead. A steady stream of hikers walk out of the bush trails and I’m told it’s here they celebrate the end of the Three Capes Track with a skinny dip.
We don’t see any bare bottoms as we push out through the clear water towards Cape Huay, where we will be challenged by ocean swells in search of the famous dolerite sea cliffs, including the sky-high Candlestick and Totem Pole, beckoning rock climbers for the ultimate challenge.
On the way, we paddle close to the sea cliffs, spotting an Australian fur seal with his harem and another rock with a group of bachelor seals squaring off. An albatross glides in the distance and the surly swell rolls beneath us, lifting us higher, dipping us down. Later, I still feel that rhythm as I close my eyes to sleep.
As we pull into Bivouac Bay, the noise and smell of a sightseeing boat hits us. It’s a reminder of how fortunate we are to have only the sounds and smells of the ocean for company as we paddle. Unlike the heaving hiking trails, there’s no one else out on the water with us.
We walk through a break in the bush to find a wooden platform where we eat cheese and salad wraps before a short hike to the cliff top on the Tasman Coastal Trail for a birds-eye view of our paddle.
After lunch, we paddle to gentler water around Canoe Bay, where we limbo under a half-sunken boat as cormorants watch us move beneath them.
A gannet dive-bombs in front of us as we cruise back to the boat ramp after a solid 12km paddle. Later, we enjoy homemade pasta by an Italian chef from the Huon Valley, featuring locally sourced mushrooms.
I help carry the kayaks down the narrow bush track to the cove below our lodge. We push out from the sand on to a breathless ocean as jumping fish pop out of the water and a seal is frolicking on the reef break nearby.
There’s a mist on the rainforest-laden mudstone cliffs and sea eagles can be spotted high up in the trees as raindrops sprinkle gently on the filmy black water.
“It’s just magical,” says Beth
Around the headland, Elijah spots a cave, investigating it for safety. He disappears inside, reappearing five minutes later and giving us the thumbs up, beaming and beckoning us in.
One at a time we hoist our rudders and reverse into the cave. It’s dark inside and there’s a roaring sound deep within the cave as the waves roll in; a hungry monster calling us deeper into the darkness.
After that, we become addicted to exploring sea caves, smiles stuck on our faces with each one. Some have deep caverns and high ceilings, with plenty of turning potential, others need some reversing into tighter passageways. All are humbling and awe-inspiring.
We moor up on the rocks at Deep Glen Bay and have gingernuts, lolly snakes and hot chocolate before we explore a few more caves, safe because of their very deep water, which helps the swell move in and out without a dramatic crash against the rocks.
Elijah gives us each a square of “cave chocolate” as we exit the last one before a feisty finish across Pirates Bay home in ever-changing winds. He must have known we’d need the energy boost after a solid 16km paddle-day with salt water splashing our determined faces, mountains shaded like pencil sketches in the distance.
It’s a cold last morning and, after Danika’s homemade pancakes slathered in peanut butter and Canadian maple syrup, we laughingly suggest we ditch the kayaking for a winery and an open fireplace. Instead, we tighten our wetsuit skirts over the cockpit seats and Elijah pushes us off in the biting rain and trust him.
Soon, the rain stops, the sun shines and the water calms as we dip our paddles through smooth seas as black swans, gannets and stingrays abound.
“Life goes where it’s most protected,” explains Elijah, who has taken us to a spot sheltered from the strong southerlies. When we do get exposed to the wind, he’s cleverly arranged it to be blowing us forwards rather than blowing against us.
We disembark on a rocky ledge to stretch our legs. Elijah wades out into the water and pulls up fresh oysters, which he deftly shucks and offers to us as a salty snack with the juice of the oranges we have onboard.
We end in a deserted-island style beach strewn with driftwood and where lunch wraps are served and a camping mug of Tasmanian sparkling wine farewells us to further shores.
As Danika and Elijah go to retrieve the car, the group discusses the journey: “Top trip, absolutely great,” says Beth’s husband Mike. “This trip exceeded expectations and even after 11 trips with the same company, there hasn’t been one dud.”
The trip, a gentle breather from our busy land-based lives, will serve as a reminder of the incredible wildlife and ocean environment that is awaiting our return in all its magical, fragile and awe-inspiring details, keeping us company for a small moment in time as we quietly paddled, wonderfully immersed in nature.
Vibe Hotel, Hobart, is centrally located with a welcoming fireplace, restaurant and bar in the lobby, and with modern, comfortable rooms. vibehotels.com.
GETTING THERE
Air NZ, Qantas and Jetstar all fly from Auckland to Hobart, Tasmania with one stopover.
DETAILS
Viking’s cruise brings Europe to your balcony..