Neil Porten stays at Napier's Art Deco Masonic Hotel
Location: Prime position on the corner of Tennyson and Emerson streets, overlooking the Soundshell on Marine Parade. Queen Elizabeth waved to the crowds from the balcony when she stayed here in 1954, and it's the perfect spot for viewing the parade and airshow during the annual Art Deco Festival every February (though sadly, not this year). It's a 6km, 10 to 15-minute taxi ride from Hawke's Bay Airport.
Style: What it says on the tin. This incarnation of the Masonic Hotel was built in 1932 in the style of the day, along with much of the Napier CBD, after the 1931 Hawke's Bay earthquake destroyed the previous wooden hotel. The exterior is a relatively unadorned example of Art Deco architecture: squarish, two-storey, but with a dozen octagonal pillars holding up the balcony and its name in red lead-lighting above the entrance on Tennyson St.
Inside, the current owners have lavished a beautiful refurbishment upon the building, highlighting and enhancing the solid concrete and wooden structures and fittings. Colours and textures are bold and rich: the carpets march up the staircases and hallways in wide stripes of crimson, gold, black and turquoise; these colours are repeated in the rich brocades and crushed velvets in the intimate Emporium Lounge. The accommodation is on the first floor, but the hallways step up and down, and angle off to numerous wings and doors to the balcony: I would die - perhaps intentionally - to take part in an elaborate Hercule Poirot-inspired murder-mystery weekend in this hotel.
Price: From $299 per night for a studio room.
First impressions: The entrance is a little unassuming, being around the side from the waterfront facade. But the brass handrails, tiled steps and heavy wooden doors reveal a cool and bright reception lobby. Check-in was very quick and friendly, as was every staff member we dealt with during our stay. The old lift, complete with the Masonic square and compasses symbol inlaid in the floor, hauled us sedately up to the first floor.
Rooms: There is a good variety of rooms: smaller single, queen and king rooms, studios, suites and a two-bedroom apartment, all of them beautifully styled. The suites are named for famous guests: Mark Twain, Anna Pavlova, Jean Batten, and the Royal Suite. Many of the rooms have access to the main balcony. Our studio, Room 121, was delightful. The average size of a studio is 27sq m, and it was a great amount of space, with a sofa and an easychair, and a desk. The carpet is the same as in the public spaces. Ceiling-to-floor gold drapes cover the french doors which open on to the shared balcony space, where there is a table and two chairs; this spot gets the sun all day whereas the roadside balcony is in the shade in the afternoon. The air conditioning was dead-quiet and efficient, or you can open the high windows for some fresh air. This room is back from the road and we weren't bothered by traffic or city noise. The bed is king size, a pair of king singles combined, and it was firm and comfortable, with good pillows and crisp sheets. There was plenty of good quality tea (Chanui) and coffee (Jed's Coffee bags), and a fridge.
Bathroom: It's a step up from the lounge area, behind one of the golden crushed-velvet drapes. Natural light floods the black-and-white tiled space. A sliding door divides off the shower and toilet. There is a cushioned seat near the basin. The shower is double-size, walk-in, with a simple single control. The shower rose is at a set height - high - which was fine by me and didn't bother my shorter wife. The water pressure was strong and the temperature plentifully hot. You get Elemis hand/body wash, body lotion and shampoo in large squeezable dispensers, reducing packaging waste. You won't need to bring your own hair dryer. Everything was fastidiously clean.
Food and drink: Breakfast was served in the Emporium Lounge - a small a la carte selection at weekends. The espresso coffee was fine. The Emporium Eatery & Bar is a wonderful space of comfortable nooks and views out the picture windows to Marine Parade. The onsite Rose Irish Pub serves up the likes of beef and Guinness pie, seafood chowder, lamb shank rogan josh and fish and chips. You can also order room service.
Facilities: We had no problems with the free Wi-Fi, which worked fine on the balcony but was at its weakest in the Emporium Lounge downstairs. There are conference facilities for up to 220 people. There are no exercise facilities, but the Ocean Spa complex, with swimming pools, spa and a gym is a few hundred metres up Marine Parade. There is a guest laundry. There is reserved parking close by, for $11 per day.
Sustainability: Details of the hotel's "environmental responsibility" initiatives are prominent on their website, and there's a sign in the bathroom encouraging guests to think about reusing their towels. There are recycling bins in each room and more than 50 per cent of all waste is recycled; all detergents used have the Environmental Choice NZ tick of approval, and none of the toiletries have been tested on animals; energy-efficient LED lighting and water-efficient toilets have been installed, and all appliances are Energy Star rated; local suppliers are preferred for food and beverages; staff are educated about the green initiatives.
In the neighbourhood: Everything you need. The MTG Hawke's Bay museum and theatre complex is diagonally opposite the hotel, with the Art Deco Trust across the road on the opposite corner, for all your tour-booking requirements. All the shops of Emerson and Hastings Sts are on the doorstep. The shared path and cycleway along the waterfront goes for miles in both directions; hire a bike and the bars and bustle of West Quay and Ahuriri - and even wineries such as Church Road - are a few flat and picturesque pedal-pumps away.
Contact: masonic.co.nz
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