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Home / Travel

Hawke's Bay winter getaway: 10 things to do on a weekend trip

Sarah Pollok
By Sarah Pollok
Multimedia Journalist·NZ Herald·
16 Aug, 2022 07:00 PM8 mins to read

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An inside look at Napier’s hidden speakeasy. Video / Sarah Pollok.

Rustic wineries dotted among acres of apple orchards fringed by limestone cycle paths. Fierce red sunrises on wide coastal horizons and whimsical, world-famous art deco buildings. Italian delis and rock 'n' roll restaurants, art deco cafes and farmers' markets packed with gourmet treats and deeply content diners. Welcome to Hawke's Bay.

Its cities may be humble in size but don't be fooled, a weekend trip must be perfectly planned if you want to even scratch the surface of what this region has to offer. Here are 10 things you absolutely must do on a winter weekend away, plus 10 insider tips we wish we'd known before we went.

1. See the Ātea a Rangi Star Compass at sunrise

Off the (literal) beaten track of SH51 south of Napier, you won't find this attraction on typical travel itineraries, however, it could be the highlight of your trip. Built in Waitangi Regional Park, the Ātea a Rangi is a life-sized celestial star compass created by Ngāti Kahungunu navigator Piripi Smith to educate and inspire the next generation of celestial navigators. While you can visit any time of day, nothing compares to showing up at 6am to hear Smith's kōrero around traditional navigation, Māori astronomy and the heart behind the Ātea a Rangi Education Trust.

Tip: Between the coastal breeze and the just-rising sun, mornings get freezing at Waitangi Regional Park. If you don't want to lose feeling in your legs and hands, pack an extra-warm layer and gloves.
atea.nz

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2. Try the breakfast at F.G. Smith

Reward yourself for getting up at 5am on a weekend by heading straight to F.G. Smith Eatery in Ahuriri for a piping hot coffee and some kai. For something more substantial, pick a classic eggs Benny, avo on toast or granola, while the adventurous will love the hangover fried rice, green shakshuka or pan-fried scallops. No matter what you get, all dishes are whipped up with fresh local ingredients and served by smiley staff who seem stoked to be there.

Tip: Smith is famous for its ham and cheese scrolls, which are fresh from the oven at 8am and gone in a flash. If you're an early bird, make sure to grab one and see what the fuss is about.

3. Take an Art Deco Vintage Car Tour

Given Napier's global reputation as one of the world's best art deco capitals, exploring the city with an Art Deco Trust tour is simply a must. While the trust offers a self-guided map, the personal stories and fascinating titbits you get from the passionate volunteers make the guided options well worth a ticket. Walking tours travel the city on foot as you learn about the famous earthquake and even more famous art deco-style rebuild. Meanwhile, the vintage car tour takes the experience to a new level of luxury, with a guide decked out in 1930s attire who drives you around the city in one of their mint-condition cars.

Tip: You won't see Napier city the same after this tour so make sure it's one of the first things you do in the city. You'll spend the rest of the trip with a far richer appreciation for every little building and detail.
artdeconapier.com

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4. Grab an Italian-style sandwich at Harvest Deli

It's a long way from Sperlonga, Italy to Napier but if you've had one of Harvest Deli's epic sandwiches, you'll be glad Andrea Marseglia made his way here. Launched with his Kiwi partner, Sarah Mitchell, in December 2021, the deli is a traditional Italian salumeria with a modern spin. Imported delicacies like tinned sardines and chorizo spread sit beside local cheeses and freshly baked bread. All of which can be bought separately or enjoyed in one of the deli's ever-changing selection of sandwiches.

Tip: In typical European fashion, these guys aren't shy around oil and other wet ingredients, so take twice the number of napkins you think you'll need and leave that white shirt at home.

5. Feed little blue penguins at the aquarium

Love little blue penguins? Then head to the National Aquarium for the cutest show around. General admission allows you to see the penguins from a viewing platform while the real penguin fans can get up close and personal with a close encounter tour. Here, a keeper takes you behind the scenes of the rescue and rehabilitation centre, where you learn all about the day-to-day runnings as well as each penguin's name, quirky character traits and current love interest. Then, it's time to head out to the enclosure to meet them in the feathered flesh and help hand feed them.

Tip: Keep your nice shoes in your suitcase for this outing and don't worry, the little guys may give you a playful nip but it doesn't hurt a bit.
nationalaquarium.co.nz/visit/little-penguin-close-encounter

6. Sneak into the city's new speakeasy

Remember Harvest Deli? Well, at sunset, it's time to return - not for seconds, but push against the wall at the back of the shop to find a secret door to Napier's trendy speakeasy, Bar Teresa. Owned by Marseglia and Mitchell, the intimate bar feels like an ode to 1920s glamour, with smooth jazz playing and even smoother bartenders whipping up fantastical cocktails that feature smoke, bubbles, fire and more.

Tip: In typical super-cool-bar fashion, these guys don't take reservations. So, if you want to guarantee a spot and not wait outside, try going earlier in the evening.
harvesthospitality.co.nz/teresa

7. Dine at Mister D and Market St

Nothing beats sitting in a cosy, busy restaurant, surrounded by excellent food and chatty diners. Fortunately, Napier isn't short of places you can find this feeling but when it comes to picking favourites, Mister D and Market St are at the top of our list. If you love the quality of food and service at fine dining restaurants but also enjoy places that have a bit of attitude, the rock 'n' roll-style Mister D is your place. Meanwhile, for a city bar feel and a menu that prides itself on being "fun, not fussy", hit up the lively Market St.

Tip: These places are both packed on Friday and Saturday nights, and perfect for couples or larger groups. Even if you don't usually make a reservation, we recommend calling ahead to secure a good table.

8. Cycle around the vines

Hawke's Bay may be renowned for its food and wine, but with more than 200km of cycle trails (and more to come), it's fast becoming a biking mecca. Start your Sunday at Napier City Bike Hire & Tours in the heart of the CBD, which will kit you out with helmets, maps, bikes and a life-saving set of written directions before driving you to the Hawke's Bay Farmers' Market. From there, the 28km route takes you along a raised limestone path that looks down across dozens of fruit-laden orchards before dropping down past the doors of several vineyards and ending at Abbey Cellars.

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Tip: Pay extra for e-bikes. It may feel extravagant but those subtle motors will turn a long trail into a leisurely cruise (especially after a tasting or two). However, you'll definitely still feel it in your glutes the next day, so there's no shame in wearing bike shorts under your dress or trousers.
bikehirenapier.co.nz

9. Visit the famous farmers' market

As the starting point of the bike tour, it's hard not to follow the lively crowd and delicious smells into Aotearoa's oldest and largest farmers' market. Held every Sunday morning, Hawke's Bay Farmers' Market serves up the perfect market experience, with dozens of stalls selling everything from freshly picked avocados to farmstead goat's cheese while crowds queue around local food trucks.

Tip: Grab a coffee beforehand. With only a few little coffee carts and hundreds of sleepy-eyed market-goers, you can wait up to 40 minutes for a flat white or long black. So, BYO coffee or make a beeline for the cart and order straight away.
hawkesbayfarmersmarket.co.nz

10. Do a classic wine tasting

It's tough to pick a favourite out of dozens of great wineries but for a classy cellar door experience, you can't go wrong with Trinity Hill. From decor to dining, the winery hits the perfect balance of old-school luxury and contemporary comforts, creating an experience that is classic and lush without being stuffy or overbearing. Case in point, while the helpful staff are vino experts, every tasting comes with a set of notes on each wine, detailing its region, vintage, tasting notes and history. So, if you'd prefer to learn at your own pace or just between your group, you can.

Tip: Go with an empty stomach and make sure you order their platter, which doesn't just come with local cheeses, spiced nuts, olives and salami but mānuka honey. Not a common ingredient in a platter but one that elevates the whole experience.
trinityhill.com

For more things to see and do in the region, go to hawkesbaynz.com

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