Rottnest Island and one of its happiest inhabitants. Photo / Getty
There's more to Rottnest Island than smiling quokkas - but they're pretty difficult to resist, writes Brett Atkinson
If it's good enough for tennis superstars Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal, it's good enough for me. While in Perth for tournaments, they've both made the journey across to Rottnest Island to see Western Australia's beloved quokkas, and now I'm travelling in their Nike-clad footsteps across the Indian Ocean from the historic port town of Fremantle.
I'm getting an early start – apparently the cat-sized creatures are most active in the morning and early evening – and catch the 7.30am Rottnest Express ferry to make it to the island by 8am. A few "Freo" locals have boarded with their mountain bikes, and I'm also keen to hire two-wheeled transport once I'm on the island.
Quokka is a name derived from the ancient language of southwest Australia's indigenous Noongar people, but the name of their island home comes from a more recent visitor who arrived in 1696. Alighting on the rocky island known as Wadjemup to the Noongar, Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh mistook the marsupials for giant rats, and subsequently named the island 't Eylandt 't Rottenest – "rat nest island" - in Dutch.
Technically, Setonix brachyurus is a short-tailed scrub wallaby, and due to the social media efforts of Roger, Rafael and scores of other visitors, quokkas have become a social media phenomenon across recent years. With an uncanny natural ability to appear to be "smiling" whenever anyone breaks out an iPhone, Rottnest's finest have also developed a reputation as the "world's happiest animals". Visitors can help to keep them happy by respecting their environment and keeping a responsible distance.
Of course, translating their toothy grins into island contentment is the ultimate in lazy anthropomorphism (attributing human traits to animals), but the first few quokkas I chance upon do seem pretty chilled and laid-back. Mooching around Rottnest's tiny commercial hub near Thomson Bay - comprising just a bakery, general store and cafe - they're gently hopping around and chewing on random bits of vegetation. Regarded as one of Australia's more curious and social animals, there's certainly no fear evident as they check out the morning's new arrivals from the ferry. Notices advise visitors not to feed the quokkas and quokka-busting barriers at the general store – complete with a Ghostbusters-style no-quokkas logo - means there's little chance they'll be popping in for a six-pack of Fremantle's iconic Little Creatures beer.
At the nearby bike hire place, I'm given a few tips on where to head next. Cruising up the gentle slope leading to the historic 1896 Wadjemup Lighthouse crowning Rottnest's highest point, more quokkas are in the scrubby landscape framing the road. Great views obviously make these ones happy global superstars, and even from this squat elevation of just 46 metres, Rottnest's rugged and rocky beauty is really brought home. A few quokkas are patrolling the edge of the road, but more are sheltering amid the sparse vegetation as the Western Australian sunshine begins to illuminate the island's natural highlights. On a bright, blue-sky morning, rocky coves with a touch of the Med appear to be transplanted from Sicily or Sardinia, while the waves rolling into Strickland Bay on the island's southern shore reinforce that it's also a top Aussie surf spot when an Indian Ocean swell is pumping. After taking in lighthouse views east to Perth's impetuous skyline and down to Rottnest's collage of salt lakes, I decide to bid the furry chaps a fond farewell and set off on my bike for one final marsupial meeting.
"Around the intersection of Digby Drive and Defence Road" I've been told. "On the way out to Pink Lake".
It's another excellent piece of local intel, and I've soon parked my bike and am exploring a forested glade dotted with a few of the island's bigger trees. Compared to the more open spaces around the bakery and en route to the lighthouse, these quokkas are a bit harder to spot, blending in with the vegetation, and sheltering from island sunshine. From their shaded haven though, it's just a short walk to the salmon-pink blush of the Pink Lake, and further startling confirmation there's more to Rottnest Island than just grinning quokkas.
Getting There:
Rottnest Express (rottnestexpress.com.au) runs regular ferry services from both Perth and Fremantle. Packages including bike hire and snorkelling gear can be arranged, while adventures on their speedier Eco Express vessel include an exciting 90-minute circumnavigation of the island.
Getting Around:
Rent bikes and snorkelling gear from Pedal & Flipper (rottnestisland.com/pedalandflipper). Water sports gear including water-bikes, paddleboards and children's inflatable electric jet skis is available from Aquaplay Rottnest (aquaplayrottnest.com.au).
The Island Explorer Bus is a handy hop-on, hop-off service (including a commentary) stopping at 19 locations around the island.
Where to Stay:
Accommodation ranges from campsites to luxury oceanside eco-tents and self-contained villas and cottages. See rottnestisland.com, and book well ahead in summer and for school holidays.
Western Australia's border will open from 12.01am Thursday 3 March 2022. See www.wa.gov.au for more information.
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