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Home / Travel

Getting a rush from Taupo's falls

Beck Vass
By Beck Vass
NZ Herald·
30 Sep, 2010 04:30 PM4 mins to read

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Speeding on the Aratiatia rapids is a heart-stopping way to see Taupo's natural wonders. Photo / Supplied

Speeding on the Aratiatia rapids is a heart-stopping way to see Taupo's natural wonders. Photo / Supplied

Fast boats, helicopter views and thundering water - the central plateau provides adrenalin galore, writes Beck Vass.

White knuckles grip the warm stainless steel rail. Water sprays my face. The Australian tourist screams in delight one row behind. I can hear her smile through the shrieks. I am strangely silent.

There are 11 of us on the Hukafalls Jet, clinging on as the boat surged sideways, thrown around in 360 degree turns - deliberately - by our driver, Nathan.

Warning us each time with one of those twirly hand signs, usually pointed at the side of someone's head as they gesture that someone is crazy (which I have decided he most definitely is), Nathan spins us about.

He aims towards, then away then oh-my-God-he-is-going-to-hit-it back towards a thick tree trunk sticking out of the water, which is actually the start of the Waikato River.

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We're on an Adventure Taupo package and it's certainly living up to the name. The boat rocks sideways, left, right, then left again, before Nathan hoons off and does it again. And again. And again.

"Where are these falls already?" I wonder. But we're going downstream, not up, and I know there are more spins coming before we get there.

After a short ride to the Aratiatia rapids floodgates, which we're told are opened three times a day for tourists, the boat finally heads upstream towards the Huka falls.

Nathan, of course, has much more control than my anxieties give him credit for and I am amazed at how he toys with what seem like millimetres as he teases us, aiming at the river bank, narrow passages between trees growing out of the river, and tree trunks sticking out of it. Swans scatter as we shoot past.

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Thankfully, there's not much time to think about the worst-case-scenarios I'm expecting and the cold fresh air is enough to take my breath away for distraction.

Seeing the massive volume of water flowing over the falls from the unique perspective underneath them makes it all worthwhile.

Thick, smooth water pours over rocks and plunges into a bubbly aqua pool at the bottom, where we do donuts to the delight of dozens of tourists standing at the lookout points above. About 200,000 litres of water flows over the falls every second.

Apparently kayakers sometimes brave the falls - although from the signs we read the day before, plenty don't make it out to tell their tale, succumbing to the suction caused by the volume of water spilling over.

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We're soon back to the docking point and it's off up the road to Helistar Helicopters for part two of our adventure, a 10-minute tour over Taupo.

Pockets of steam billow from scattered spots on the landscape below and we get a bird's-eye-view of the Craters of the Moon thermal area which we visited as a time-filler before the adrenalin action began.

We had driven past the curiously labelled signpost to the Craters before and wondered what it was. Answer: A park of small volcanic steam vents and craters, with sulphur-scented steam and gurgling mud pools.

After the flight, we head into town for a snack before hurrying to see the final showing of the Aratiatia rapids. We then decide, since we've been given free entry to the AC Baths, that it sounds tempting. But when we check the complex out it turns out to be great for families with children but not us. The private spa pool is aged, with dark stains circling the edge, so we make just a quick visit before heading home.

CHECKLIST

Where to stay: The Hilton Taupo is offering its new Adventure Taupo package which includes breakfast at master chef Simon Gault's restaurant Bistro Lago, a branded backpack stuffed with an energy bar, bottled water, energy drinks and a $30 voucher to use on 80 activities with Experience Taupo, ranging from skydiving to horse trekking or cultural activities. Package prices start from $235 per person or $280 for two people, depending on the accommodation type.

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Huka Star: A 20-minute jetboat ride on the Hukafalls Jet followed by a 10-minute Helistar helicopter ride above Taupo with commentary. Wear a hooded sweatshirt or cap/hat for the jetboat ride if you're prone to the cold or don't want to get splashed. Prices for the helicopter flights start at $99 for an adult for 10 minutes. See helistar.co.nz and hukafallsjet.com.

Craters of the Moon: Entry fee is a maximum of $6 for adults. They say to allow 45 minutes to walk around the park. We did it in half the time but were in a hurry. The track is suitable for people pushing prams.

Aratiatia Rapids: Free to visit, the floodgates are opened by Mighty River Power three times a day in winter at 10am, midday and 2pm.

Further information: See experiencetaupo.co.nz and hilton.com.

Beck Vass enjoyed her Adventure Taupo package courtesy of the Hilton Taupo.

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