Sri Lanka is often compared favourably against its bigger neighbour, India. Photo / Getty Images
In recent years, Sri Lanka has experienced changes of leadership, civil riots and an economic crisis that almost plunged it into bankruptcy. Now that the dust has settled, there are only bright lights ahead, writes Mark Daffey.
For an island nation that’s half the size of our own North Island, Sri Lanka sure does pack an oversized punch. Twenty-two million people call this island nation home and it’s often compared favourably against its bigger neighbour, India. Visitors will be pleasantly surprised to discover how relaxed it really is, as well as how much there is to see and do, especially considering its relatively confined dimensions. Ancient cities, wildlife parks, palm-fringed beaches, picturesque hill country… it really does have it all.
Despite the obvious allure of this teardrop-shaped paradise, there are no direct flights to Sri Lanka from New Zealand. Sri Lankan Airlines offers the speediest choice with daily flights to Colombo via Melbourne, home to Australia’s largest Sri Lankan community, on a code share arrangement from Auckland with One World partner, Qantas. Sri Lankan Airlines also flies direct between Sydney and Colombo three times a week. Singapore, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok are other ports serviced by Sri Lanka’s national carrier.
Most international flights enter Sri Lanka via Bandaranaike Airport, 30 kilometres north of the capital. It opened in 1967. The seaside resort town of Negombo is a popular place to stay upon arrival.
Bandaranaike’s predecessor, Ratmalana, resumed international services for corporate jet operations and charter flights in March 2022. It is hoped that it will eventually attract budget airlines.
Hambantota’s Mattala Rajapaksa Airport is Sri Lanka’s other international port of entry and was the vanity project of ousted Prime Minister Mahinda Rajapaksa, whose family hails from the compact south coast city. Very few airlines actually use it though, save for infrequent charter flights from former Soviet Bloc destinations during peak holiday months.
Lastly, New Zealand passport holders must have a valid visitor’s visa to enter Sri Lanka. Thirty-day Tourist ETAs (Electronic Travel Authorisation) can be applied for online ($81) or at the port of entry ($98).
Here’s the great thing about visiting Sri Lanka – there’s no bad time to do it. When it’s monsoonal on the west coast, sunny skies warm the east coast, and vice versa. Peak season for the western and southern half of the country is generally from November to April. Both the weather and ocean settle then, making that period ideal for lazy beach holidays.
But even outside these months, you’ll hardly be inhibited by rainy days. I visited Sri Lanka in June, a time when surfers make their annual pilgrimage to Arugam Bay on the southeast coast. It was my seventh visit to the country but my first during that month and I expected my days to be plagued by persistent rain. Not so. I experienced one daytime shower during nine days.
What I did notice is the economic toll that decades of civil war, overbearing foreign loans and questionable political decision-making have wrought upon ordinary citizens. Hotels routinely quote in US dollars now and restaurant meals cost twice as much as they did when I last visited during 2015.
One benefit of all those crippling foreign loans is that road standards are slowly improving. This is particularly noticeable along the southwest coast, where the E01 Expressway (tolls apply) now connects Hambantota’s Mattala Airport with Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport, potentially shaving hours off commute times. Another expressway that’s partially completed will eventually connect Colombo with Dambulla and Kandy. Speed limits on each are 100km/h. Expect to travel at an average rate of about 30km/h elsewhere.
Affordable trains, buses and tuk-tuks connect every town and village in the country. I wouldn’t recommend hiring a car unless you also include a driver, thanks to poor signage and, at times, chaotic driving where trucks and buses demand right of way. Anticipate a driver and vehicle costing around US$100 ($163) a day.
By far, the easiest way to see Sri Lanka is by joining a tour. Intrepid Travel currently offers 12 itineraries to suit varying budgets and interests. Families, hikers, cyclists, paddlers, foodies, culture junkies and general sightseers are all catered for. See intrepidtravel.com/nz
Unless you’re into snarling traffic and strong aromas, or if you absolutely can’t miss visiting the National Museum, bypass the capital Colombo for more interesting sights elsewhere. Sri Lanka’s second city, Kandy, is more appealing, with an agreeable climate thanks to its elevated location in the hills 500m above sea level. Peak time here is during the monsoonal month of August when the Esala Perahera festival takes over the streets surrounding the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic – the city’s prime attraction. Dancers, musicians and tusker elephants all take centre stage in this visual spectacular. Smaller iterations take place around the same time in Dondra, Kataragama, Bellanwila and Unawatuna, coinciding with the arrival of the full moon.
Dambulla contains the best-preserved cave temple complex in the land, with five show caves (80 caves have been documented) displaying statues and frescoes dedicated to Buddha. Anuradhapura flourished as an ancient capital for more than 1300 years and is one of the oldest continually occupied cities in Asia. After Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa became the centre of the Sinhalese empire and its thousand-year-old ruins are in remarkable condition. Sigiriya was the fortified pleasure palace for a wayward king, built on top of a rocky summit that can be reached after climbing 1200 steps. All are World Heritage-listed. Also on that list is Galle Fort, a living city wrapped inside defensive ramparts featuring bastions and towers.
It’s along the coast, either side of Galle, where you’ll find Sri Lanka’s best beaches, from the resort towns of Bentota and Hikkaduwa to the quieter stretches between Koggala and Tangalle. On the east coast, Uppuveli and Arugam Bay attract crowds of beachcombers and surfers between May and September.
Away from the coast, the central highlands provide a welcome respite from the heat at sea level. Ella is the closest thing to a backpacker town, with views through Ella Gap to the lowlands. Picturesque tea plantations carpet the hills around Haputale, Hatton and Nuwara Eliya.
Twenty-six national parks provide sanctuary for native wildlife. The largest is Wilpattu, where sloth bears roam. Yala National Park has the highest known concentration of leopards in the world. Minneriya is prime elephant-viewing country. Twitchers will want to visit Sinharaja’s rainforests. And boat tours to see blue whales depart from the idyllic beach town of Mirissa between November and April.
Travellers with a hankering for active pursuits should go to Kitulgala for white-water rafting and tubing on the Kelani River. Hikers will want to tackle the dawn ascent of Adam’s Peak, Sri Lanka’s highest mountain, or traverse Horton Plains to World’s End, the point where sheer cliff faces plunge towards the forested foothills and plains.
So, what are you waiting for?
For more to see and do, visit srilanka.travel
From skipping the queues to planning your parade spot, here's all you need to know.