It's nicknamed Rotovegas for good reasons, but underneath the tourist stuff, Rotorua lives and breathes as an authentically bicultural city – with Whanganui, mentioned below, as our best examples. For your brief, I'd recommend the NZ Māori Arts and Crafts Institute at Te Puia, and an hour or two in the quiet surrounds of Ōhinemutu, on the lake shore near the central city; St Faith's church is an absolute treasure.
An hour east, the knock-down, drag-out must-see: Mataatua Wharenui. Built and carved as a tribute to prominent ancestors, this majestic meeting house was completed in 1875 in Whakatāne, taken to pieces in 1879 and shipped to the UK, and returned home in 1996.
Let's keep heading towards the sunrise. St Mary's Church in Tikitiki is one of the finest Māori churches in New Zealand, which means in the world. Built in 1924 as a memorial to Ngāti Porou soldiers who died in World War I, it is a blending of two cultures: the structure is European, the carved and decorated interior could only be Māori.
There are many reasons to visit Gisborne, which too few Kiwis get around to, and the best one for our purposes is the C Company Māori Battalion Memorial House, specifically honouring locals who served in World War II but also those from Tairāwhiti who saw active service during any of New Zealand's wars. Small in size, huge in mana.
Sir Āpirana Ngata, who inspired St Mary's Church, is remembered here too. Inside the door is his quotation: "We will lose some of the most promising of our young leaders but we will gain the respect of our Pākehā brothers."
Too few of those brothers and sisters have probably heard of the Rātana Church, let alone understand its profound influence on our politics and how it has shaped the nation's history. Well, that's what happens when you don't teach your own history in schools for several generations.
Pre-Covid, thousands made the annual pilgrimage to the faith's headquarters 20km south of Whanganui, to the richly decorated temple with twin belltowers that can seat 2000 people and nearby Te Whare Māori with its eclectic collection of artefacts relating to T. W. Rātana's visions and healing practices. You will be welcomed at the village and the temple is almost always open; please check with locals first.
Thrilled to hear that Te Koru Pā – one of our most important and possibly least-known archaeological treasures – is open again. As the old advertising slogan says, "If you can only go to one pā site…" this is it, an ancient pā believed to have been built in 1350, its stone-built terraces, fire pits and more still standing, along with excellent interpretation panels to explain what you're seeing. Just outside New Plymouth on Surf Highway 45.
Perhaps the most important, and most poignant site is the one that isn't there – yet. There are multimillion-dollar plans for Parihaka - now a South Taranaki village of 70 remaining residents - that include a visitor centre to explain one of the most shameful events in this country's colonial history, the 1881 invasion and its aftermath.
These are only a few of the taonga around Te Ika-a-Māui. But hey, you've got the van, you've got the time, enjoy finding your own treasures. Oh, and make a playlist before you go – there are dozens of Kiwi songs that'll tie you to each time and place.
I'm loath to suggest Opo the Crazy Dolphin for Hokianga but you could do worse than Sir Howard Morrison for Rotorua (sorry if that's a concert party); Māori Battalion (March to Victory) in Tairāwhiti and Poi E to capture Taranaki soul. On the road, Marlon Williams' new My Boy album – as the man says, it's all about the Māori strum.
The First-timer's guide to … is a new fortnightly column where we'll answer your travel-related questions – anything from roaming around Rome to reining in roaming charges. Send your queries and travel tips to travel@nzherald.co.nz with "First-timer" in the subject line
