Thinking of heading to the Philippines? Here’s why Palawan should be at the top of your list. Photo / 123RF
Thinking of heading to the Philippines? Here’s why Palawan should be at the top of your list. Photo / 123RF
Holding a strong spot atop most Filipino itineraries, Palawan is a popular destination that lives up to the hype, writes Andrew Sluys
Feeling a fear of heights while swimming at sea level isn’t a sensation I’m familiar with, but it’s the best way I candescribe swimming in Kayangan Lake with its crystal-clear blue water and remarkable depth.
Despite that incredible depth and clarity, the water is an extremely tepid 30C, and the only marine creatures that accompany me as I paddle are curious needlefish, no larger than an index finger.
Serving as a well-deserved reward after scaling the 300 or so stairs it takes to reach it, Kayangan Lake is just one of the many breathtaking natural wonders that can be found around the Filipino island province of Palawan.
Encompassing Palawan Island and Coron, the province covers the entirety of the Filipino southeastern archipelago and has been a popular tourist destination since the 1990s.
As is the case with a lot of Filipino travel, getting to and around Palawan is a bit convoluted. A Palawan itinerary can start either in Coron or Puerto Princesa, depending on the direction of travel.
Though flying direct to El Nido from Puerto Princesa is an option, our budget-friendly itinerary had us board a Cherry Bus with air conditioning and reclining chairs for the five-hour journey.
Palawan’s crystal lakes, hidden shipwrecks and island tours offer an unforgettable tropical adventure. Photo / Andrew Sluys
Long before the bus arrived in El Nido, it became clear that it was going to live up to the postcard-level hype of the internet. Glimpses of harbours strewn with islands appear through the trees, and the imposing rock formations rise to impossible heights at the roadside.
The brilliance of El Nido continues to grow as you explore the small township and the adjacent bay with its spectacular islands and crystal-clear waters. It’s also in this bay that the boat tours depart – an absolute must-do for any visitor.
To keep things relatively simple, four boat tours are offered in El Nido: A, B, C, and D. We opted for “Tour D” because of its reputation for being the least popular among tourists, but still offering an incredible experience; and we weren’t wrong.
“Small Lagoon” was the first stop of the day, and we were able to hire a tandem kayak here for $10. A small rock tunnel led through to another, seemingly untouched lagoon with azure water and dark caves to explore.
Whether diving deep or paddling at surface level, Palawan offers unforgettable island adventures. Photo / Andrew Sluys
The next two spots offered incredible snorkelling opportunities, including a former floating oil rig that was washed into the bay during a monsoon.
After a short stay in El Nido, we boarded a five-hour ferry to Coron, Palawan’s other tourist hotspot.
Many visitors, looking to take a more scenic and slow-paced trip to Coron, opt for a boat expedition, which usually takes around three nights and four days. This trip offers a more authentic island experience, sleeping in beach shacks and enjoying traditional Filipino hospitality.
Coron is very similar to El Nido at face value, but what it lacks in nightlife and onshore activities, Coron more than makes up for it with its underwater attractions.
Back in World War II, several Japanese vessels stationed in Coron Bay were attacked by United States bombers, leaving a total of 12 100m-plus shipwrecks sitting on the ocean floor.
The water in Palawan’s lakes is brackish – a mix of fresh and salt water. Photo / Andrew Sluys
This act of war almost 100 years ago has made this Filipino destination a playground for divers, with many claiming that the best shipwrecks in the world lie in Coron’s waters.
If diving isn’t your forte, Coron also offers a lot of surface-level activities for those looking to get out on the water.
Confusingly, you’ll be staying on Busuanga Island when visiting Coron, as Coron Island is exclusively inhabited by indigenous tribes. Like El Nido, numerous boat tours are available to explore this vast island and the surrounding waters.
It’s here that visitors can swim in the famous Kayangan and Barracuda Lakes. The underwater visibility of these lakes was like nothing I had encountered before, with limestone formations at depths of over 10m still visible.
With brackish water that’s 70% fresh and 30% salt water, these lakes also offer a unique swimming experience with temperatures above the 30C mark. Because it is fed by a volcanic spring, temperatures climb at deeper points of the lake – something I had never experienced before.
Out in the bay, Skeleton Wreck offers snorkellers and free divers the opportunity to witness a sunken Japanese vessel at depths of around 5m, although you’ll be battling a flotilla of tourists to do so.
El Nido Town Beach. Photo / Andrew Sluys
As a whole, Palawan is a must-see destination for anyone who’s looking to explore the natural wonders of the Philippines. Think of it as a tropical version of Milford Sound with a lot more tuk-tuks buzzing around.
Despite its popularity with tourists, there are still opportunities to get off the beaten track and explore the tropical paradise without the onslaught of drones and tripods you’ll find at the hotspots.
Details
Getting there
Fly from Auckland to Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane, and then to Manila. Fly from Manila to Puerto Princesa, and take a bus or van to either Port Barton or El Nido.
Visa requirements
New Zealand citizens can travel to the Philippines for up to 30 days without a visa.
