With no Wi-Fi, fine South African wines and stunning off-train excursions, Rovos Rail’s journey is a step back in time in the best way. Photo / Rovos Rail
When it debuted in the late 1980s, Rovos Rail was the first train company to outfit its carriages with posh amenities. More than 40 years later, Bonnie Pop jumps aboard to experience the bucket list journey
Nothing quite prepares you for your first luxury train experience. It’s as close as one might ever come to stepping back in time.
My husband and I arrived at the Rovos Rail train station in Pretoria, South Africa, after a week-long cross-country drive from Cape Town, and the red carpet that welcomed our arrival served as a bridge from modern-day motor transport to the gilded-age glory days of train travel.
As we sipped our complimentary champagne and gazed around Rovos’ opulent station lounge, it quickly became clear how Southern Africa’s swankiest rail company might single-handedly be responsible for reviving the luxury train industry when it launched back in the late eighties.
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Now in its 36th year, Rovos has achieved a certain, well-deserved confidence that anyone in their third decade of life might recognise.
Having successfully navigated through turbulent South African politics, multiple economic downturns and a recent global pandemic (during which they continued to pay every employee), the company has managed not only to maintain its high standard of sophistication, but has done so while holding fast to its original commitment: delivering a culturally immersive safari-by-rail experience that’s as good for its guests as it is for its community.
We joined Rovos for what is perhaps its most famous route, departing from Pretoria to wind our way north across some of Zimbabwe’s most storied landscapes before landing at the jaw-dropping Victoria Falls.
The royal, red carpet greeting by Rovos’ fleet of friendly staff is just the beginning. Smiling attendants bearing trays of bubbles usher each guest past a swirl of peacocks strutting beneath graceful canopies of jacaranda trees and into their sumptuous lounge to await the train’s arrival.
Here, my husband and I discreetly eyed the other passengers, inevitably inventing backstories befitting the glamour of our surroundings. We didn’t expect how quickly we would find real connection with one another, facilitated by a shared schedule of leisurely lunches, back-of-train bird-watching, and multi-course dinners paired with plenty of local wine. Of course, the intentional lack of Wi-Fi on board also ensured we actually spoke with one another along the way.
“When my folks first started the business all those years ago, there was no Wi-Fi or internet,” explains Tiffany Vos-Thane, chief operations officer and youngest daughter of Rovos founder and namesake Rohan Vos. “So it wasn’t a hard decision to simply keep it that way.
“We are very eager to create an environment where guests are free from distractions.”
It’s a decision I found myself supremely grateful for, as there are so few travel experiences today that actually enforce this type of digital disconnection. Those that do, like Rovos, gift their guests with rare and memorable moments of cross-cultural connection that one would otherwise have to truly travel back in time to enjoy.
The train itself is a masterpiece of restoration, proof of its nostalgic ethos. Local artisans painstakingly revive historic coaches and infuse them with an elegance that is unique to the continent.
“Every detail you see, from the upholstery to the woodwork to the toiletries, is created right here in South Africa,” Tiffany shared with pride, explaining how carrying on the traditions of South African artisans and craftsman allows Rovos Rail to have a continuous, positive impact on the economy while also preserving the local culture.
In their suites, guests receive complimentary toiletries and soaps crafted locally, dine on meals that showcase regional culinary traditions, and savour the finest South African wines.
“Right from the beginning, [my mother] was determined to support local only. So everything from the glassware to the light fixtures to silverware, plates, uniform, carpentry provides an opportunity for guests to connect more deeply to our country, which has been no easy feat,” explains Tiffany.
“It is very tempting to import stuff from other parts of the world where it’s far more affordable, but we’ve never wavered because the reason why we started this business was to showcase South Africa.
“And now we travel through nine additional African countries, so we can expand on that. We’re always thinking, ‘How can we enrich the communities we travel through? How can we support local industries here?’”
As we giddily explored our own suite that first evening, something caught my eye. In lieu of those tiny plastic shampoo and conditioner bottles you normally find in amenity kits, we found only aluminium ones. Looking around the room, there was indeed no plastic to be found. The soap, lotion and body wash all boasted scents of local botanicals.
It was all a clear demonstration of the commitment to both local sourcing and sustainability that I had discussed with Tiffany. In addition, she’s helped to pioneer more forward-looking sustainability initiatives since taking over management, including creating an entire Rovos-dedicated recycling plant at the Pretoria station, minimising water waste across train operations, and researching biodiesel as a potential future fuel alternative. Each of these unexpected details provided further proof of the profoundly respectful way Rovos Rail operates.
Days on the train felt longer than normal, with no hours of mindless scrolling or screen time to eat up our time. Instead, we spent our time delighting in the landscapes sliding by our room’s picture windows. When we wanted to stretch our legs, we’d meander to the observation deck on the back lounge car to gaze at the rail tracks as they hypnotically receded into the African bush.
On most occasions, this car was the place to commune and converse with our fellow passengers, who hailed from Europe, South America, the United States and almost every other corner of the globe.
While there was plenty of wildlife to spot from the window, the most magical encounters happened during our off-board excursions, beginning with a visit to Matobo National Park in Zimbabwe, famously one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth and boasting cave paintings more than 100,000 years old.
After a game drive through the park, we concluded with a visit to the grave of Cecil John Rhodes, a site offering panoramic views over the park while the setting sun bathed its landscape in glorious, golden hues.
The next day, our adventure continued to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe’s largest wildlife sanctuary. From the comfort of our safari vehicles, we spotted elephants, giraffes, lions, and more before reuniting for a chat around the fire, trading stories with the other guests under another brilliant African sunset.
After each excursion, the always attentive staff welcomed us back with water or chilled wine and a warm towel.
As our Rovos journey concluded at Victoria Falls, we parted ways yet remained connected to one another by this rare and precious bucket-list journey, made all the more special by Rovos’ commitment to uplifting its local culture and communities.
Tiffany’s commitment to sustainability and the ethos of Rovos Rail ensure that while the train may be rooted in the past, its journey onward is both forward-looking and luxurious.
“We’re not just providing a journey,” Tiffany concludes, “We’re curating an experience that respects both our heritage and our future.”
For more information about Rovos Rail’s Pretoria to Victoria Falls journey and others, visit rovos.com.
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