Kicking back with tapas and a cocktail is all part of the Barcelona experience. Photo / Getty Images
Kicking back with tapas and a cocktail is all part of the Barcelona experience. Photo / Getty Images
When the world feels weighty, playful Barcelona is the perfect travel antidote, writes Gemma Askham
Spain's magnetic city-with-sea-views has joy written in its DNA. From the brightly coloured architecture that refuses to follow rules to its long lunches, affordable wine and the liberating sense that anything goes. If you're savingup for a big trip, add these joyful spots to your Barcelona wish list.
The spirits-raising rooftop
The April opening of Barcelona's first Hoxton hotel – joining artfully designed bases in London, Paris and Williamsburg – came with sky-high expectations. Fitting, then, that the rooftop stole the show. For guests, a chequerboard-tiled pool, terrazzo tables and cabanas are bookable in advance. But you don't need to crash overnight to crash The View. Sunset is the time to come, when the sun drops behind La Sagrada Familia church, creating a silhouette of Barcelona's most famous resident in front of a watercolour sky. Like any good magic show, fun is integral. The rooftop taqueria, Tope, demands dribbly fingers (don't miss the chicken tinga tacos, where marinated chicken jostles with feta, salsa verde, jalapenos and pickles). Drinks include boozy slushies, such as the excellently named Snowgroni – the love child of a negroni and a margarita. thehoxton.com/poblenou/
Barcelona's grid pattern truly comes to life when viewed from above. Photo / Getty Images
A Salvador Dali-inspired fountain made of noses, a carousel that you can ride on, and ceilings painted in black and white stripes. It sounds like the slightly deranged aftermath of eating cheese before bed. But in Barcelona, land of theatrical artists, this is a restaurant. Called Gala, it's the creation of cool Catalan design studio Quintana Partners, which has also brought its brand of beautiful-but-occasionally-barmy interiors to Hotel La Bionda in Begur (a gorgeous town in the Costa Brava, north of Barcelona) and Barcelona's popular multi-language Finestres bookshops. While Gala's customer service won't win any Oscars, the space is pure Alice in Wonderland escapism: come for a drink and an Instagram shot, leave looking at the world like a child. galarestaurante.com
When it comes to charming bars and cafes in Barcelona, you're spoilt for choice. Photo / Getty Images
The non-stuffy culture fix
The Picasso Museum might be Barcelona's most famous art destination but it's not always uplifting – depressive blue period, we're looking at you. To find art with cheer, you don't need to head far; just one minute's walk next door to Moco Museum Barcelona. A portmanteau of modern and contemporary, Moco showcases vibrant art by rising stars and big names such as Banksy, Damien Hirst, Yayoi Kusama, KAWS, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol. What sets it apart is both the breadth of mediums and how interactive the exhibits are. Take Studio Irma's Diamond Matrix – a labyrinth of mirrors with 400 hanging glass crystals that you walk inside. This is the place to convert anyone who yawns at the word "museum". mocomuseum.com/locations/moco-barcelona
The playground in the sky
Jean Nouvel's shiny, gherkin-like tower is the most distinctive landmark on Barcelona's skyline that Gaudi didn't play a part in. It's always been cool from the outside but, beyond housing Meta's offices, hasn't offered up much of mass interest inside. Until May, that is, when a viewing platform on the 30th floor went public, offering a 360-degree perspective of the Collserola mountains, Mediterranean Sea, Montjuic, La Sagrada Familia and city life below. But the best part isn't what you look out on to, it's what's above. Argentine artist Tomas Saraceno removed three office floors to make a climb-on sculpture called Cloud Cities Barcelona. Like a spider's web of small, interconnected platforms, the idea is to scramble up and down steep sections, pausing to rest (there are books to read) or chat to a stranger. It requires agility and a head for heights – you must be physically mobile, wear closed shoes and be over 12 years old – but it's as unique as it is exhilarating. miradortorreglories.com
Jean Nouvel's gherkin-like tower offers incredible views of the city, Collserola mountains and Mediterranean Sea. Photo / Getty Images
The elevated dose of vitamin sea
Having all the perks of a cosmopolitan, open-minded, architecturally significant city plus a beach has always been a huge selling point for Barcelona – pioneer of the city-and-chill itinerary. A few recent changes are upgrading the coastal scene, too. In July, a clean-up initiative banned smoking on all of the city's beaches. Then there was the summer opening of FiskeBar – a marina-side restaurant that offers ocean and old-town views, sleek Copenhagen-inspired interiors and a consistently excellent menu. There is rice-based seafood for those seeking the paella experience that Spain is famous for. But dishes go above and beyond the typical – think smoked scallop tartare, salmon with citrus and wild celery pesto and a slurp-able spaghetti with clams. grupotragaluz.com/en/restaurant/fiskebar/
The monument that's pure magic
Predictable, yes, but it's impossible to describe Barcelona's joys without mentioning La Sagrada Familia. The tallest tower on the world's largest unfinished Catholic church is slated to be completed in 2026 – coinciding, fittingly, with the 100th anniversary of creator Antoni Gaudi's death. By the end of 2022, two smaller towers named after the evangelists Mark and Luke are expected to be done. Whatever stage construction is at, the building is majestic; those who admire the outside will not be disappointed. However, it's inside where the magic really happens. Sunlight streaming through window after window of stained glass feels like you're living inside a kaleidoscope. If you're fortunate enough to visit during organ practice, the piercing music and enveloping colours create one of the most hypnotic, haunting experiences you'll ever have. Pre-booking is essential. sagradafamilia.org
No trip to Barcelona is complete without a visit to Antoni Gaudi's La Sagrada Familia. Photo / Getty Images
The perky picnic providers
The cheerfully named Funky Bakers began as a small independent bakery in the lively neighbourhood of El Born. Today, the concept has expanded into Funky Bakers' Deli – a one-stop picnic and homeware store that sells a photogenic curation of natural wines and craft beers, English-language cookbooks, vases, and a legendary babka made with cinnamon, cardamom and espresso. There's also Funky Bakers Eatery, which whips up brekkies, brunches and dinners using Turkish and Middle Eastern flavours. The team is made up of bakers and designers, so it's no surprise that its moreish nibbles come with cool branding and a head-nodding soundtrack. Go for sustenance, smiles and fun vibes. funkybakers.com
Gaudi's distinctive architecture can be found throughout Barcelona, including at quirky city landmark, Park Guell. Photo / Getty Images
The chilled (in all senses) wine bar
Bandini's is the kind of place that you casually pop in once, then end up visiting three more times during your trip. The owners spent many years uncorking at Bar Brutal, a wine-bar-turned-institution in the city. Now they've gone it alone, pairing their smarts for seeking out small-batch wines (perhaps even pouring from bottles without labels) with surprising sharing dishes. The Gnudi – that's gnocchi-like dumplings made of ricotta cheese – have been known to fill diners' thoughts (dreams?) long after a visit. While the sea bass with smoked celery root and hollandaise also scoops high praise. Located in Sant Antoni, Bandini's is the perfect pitstop after exploring Montjuic hill, where you'll find fun activities including a castle, cable car, botanical garden and worth-it museums such as the Joan Miro Foundation and MNAC, Catalunya's National Art Museum. Come hungry and thirsty – Brandini's is casual and unfussy and will charm your socks off. Basically, it's Barcelona in bar form. bandinisbarcelona.com
