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Home / Travel

Cyprus bathers return to forbidden beach, 46 years on

By Menelaos Hadjicostis and Nedim Enginsoy
Other·
11 Oct, 2020 08:33 PM4 mins to read

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For almost 50 years the beach has been in noman's land between Turkish and Greek forces. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

For almost 50 years the beach has been in noman's land between Turkish and Greek forces. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

The pristine, azure waters lapping at the skirts of uninhabited Varosha contrast sharply with the dilapidated, crumbling buildings lining the beachfront of this abandoned suburb of Famagusta.

For the first time in 46 years, members of the public were permitted on Thursday to access the beach of Varosha in the breakaway Turkish Cypriot north of ethnically divided Cyprus.

Hundreds filed through a gate manned by Turkish Cypriot police to walk on a freshly paved asphalt road leading to the beach that was the jewel of what was once Cyprus' premier tourist resort. The road was lined on both sides with police tape to prevent pedestrians straying into windowless homes and rusting business, some swallowed up by decades-old, snake-infested undergrowth.

Varosha sits in the noman's land of the war divided Cyprus.  Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy
Varosha sits in the noman's land of the war divided Cyprus. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

For some, like one woman draped in the Turkish and Turkish Cypriot flags, it was a moment of joy to witness an "historic" moment.

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For others, like Greek Cypriot Varosha native Kyriakos Charalambides watching on TV from his Nicosia home, it was a moment of bitterness and sorrow. "Even though I expected this, I shuddered as I watched those familiar places," Charalambides, a playwright, told the Associated Press. "It's a sorrow that cannot be consoled ... Varosha is lost."

The decision, by Turkey and the breakaway Turkish Cypriot state recognised only by Ankara, to open the mile-long stretch of beach was roundly condemned by the island's Greek Cypriot-run, internationally-recognised government.

Cypriot bathers return to Varosha. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy
Cypriot bathers return to Varosha. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

Varosha's Greek Cypriot inhabitants fled as Turkish troops advanced in 1974, when Turkey invaded following a coup by supporters of union with Greece. Since then, the area was placed under Turkish military control, cordoned off and left to the ravages of time.

Cypriot President Nicos Anastasiades condemned the opening as a "flagrant violation of international law" and United Nations Security Council resolutions that consider attempts to settle any part of Varosha — Maras in Turkish — by anyone other than its inhabitants as "inadmissible." The resolutions also call for the area to be transferred to U.N. administration.

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The U.N. Security Council, currently presided over by Russia, will hold closed consultations on Varosha on Friday.

Varosha's Greek Cypriot inhabitants fled as Turkish troops advanced in 1974. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy
Varosha's Greek Cypriot inhabitants fled as Turkish troops advanced in 1974. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

Greek Cypriots fear the beach opening is only a first step to Turkey and the Turkish Cypriots completely taking over Varosha.

Anastasiades said in a statement Thursday that his government has already protested to the U.N., the European Union and other international organizations. He repeated that the "unilateral" action could hinder attempts at relaunching stalled talks to reunify the island.

Both U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres and EU Foreign Policy Chief Josep Borrell expressed concern at the action they said could heighten tensions and undermine fresh attempts at restarting talks.

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Former Varosha residents staged a demonstration late Thursday at a crossing point along a U.N. controlled buffer zone to voice their opposition to the opening. The checkpoint — one of nine from which Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots can cross on either side — was shut on the Turkish Cypriot side as part of measures to counter the spread of COVID-19.

Warzone: the golden beach is at odds with the backdrop. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy
Warzone: the golden beach is at odds with the backdrop. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

"How can someone not be upset by what they have seen today?" the Greek Cypriot mayor of Famagusta, Simos Ioannou told the Associated Press. "Varosha should have been handed over to its rightful owners ... this is psychological pressure."

But Turkish and Turkish Cypriot officials insist the move is to everyone's benefit and that the rights of Greek Cypriot property owners aren't affected since it's only the beach that's opening for now.

Turkish Foreign Minister Mevlut Cavusoglu said an inventory on all the properties within Varosha is currently underway to determine what will happen with the rest of Varosha.

But at least for now, the opening of the seafront and some roads where there is no private property was important," Cavusoglu said after a meeting on Thursday with his Greek counterpart, Nikos Dendias.

Turkish officials insist the move is to everyone's benefit. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy
Turkish officials insist the move is to everyone's benefit. Photo / AP, Nedim Enginsoy

"It will be useful to take such steps that are to the benefit of all, that respect private property rights, without violating U.N. decisions," Cavusoglu said.

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The opening took place just three days before Turkish Cypriots elect a new leader to represent them in U.N.-facilitated peace talks.

- Associated Press

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