Mondrian Gold Coast in Burleigh Heads.
Surfers Paradise may be the most famous of the Gold Coast suburbs, but it isn’t the only one worth a visit, writes Sarah Pollok.
Extroverted and polished, there’s no doubt that Surfers Paradise has serious “eldest child” energy. It’s been around the longest (a hot spot since the 1920s), and has the glittering skyscrapers, impressive malls and generous list of eateries to prove it. Naturally, it’s the first place that springs to mind when someone says “Gold Coast”. But it isn’t a family of one.
Just 15 minutes north of the airport, Burleigh has all the classic Gold Coast traits: long, golden beaches, balmy climate and chic restaurants. Yet, in typical younger-sibling fashion, this smaller suburb boasts a laid-back, creative atmosphere with little desire to be in the spotlight. For travellers, this means all of the fun with far fewer crowds.
Standing on the beachfront balcony, my first morning in Burleigh begins by indulging in the rare delight of watching the sunrise with a coffee in hand and nowhere to be. On floor 18, I have a sweeping view of Burleigh Beach, where perfect surf waves roll right until they hit the headland. A few metres inland, a handful of glittering lights mark the few main streets.
Peering down to the promenade, I’m surprised to spot several people jogging before the clock hits six. Inspired, I throw on my running gear and join them. Moving fast through the warm air, the sun streaking across water, I reach the start of Burleigh Head National Park and pass several clusters of people of every age and stage enjoying an early start; pairs of men chatting with coffee cups, women striding along with headphones on, elderly couples strolling along the sand or babies bouncing along in pushchairs. Get up and Gold Coast indeed.
The 5km route takes me around the headland, with lush national park on one side, the rocky coastline on the other and at least a dozen more people who have sieved the warm spring morning. Sufficiently puffed, I retrace my steps, racing back along the promenade before turning right and bounding down to the beach, barely stopping to ditch shoes and socks before plunging into the sweet, cool ocean. Bobbing along, I take in the sun-soaked beach, still in awe that for many people around me, in the water and on the promenade, this is how their work day starts.
In this way, Burleigh feels like the place city folk move when they want to maintain their 6am alarms but swap suits and HIIT (high-intensity interval training) classes for surfboards and kilometres of golden beach. The energy is ambitious yet unhurried, casual yet classy.
Some of that class is owing to the hottest ticket in town, and my accommodation, Mondrian Gold Coast. The first Mondrian in Australia, the hotel opened in June and is clearly the Place To Be, whether you’re grabbing a post-swim coffee at Lito, its Italian eatery, or enjoying a seafood feast at the elegant restaurant Haven.
As a famous luxury brand in a famously chill part of Australia, Mondrian Gold Coast straddles two seemingly opposing worlds with an abundance of relaxed glamour. Interiors go hard on clean curves, warm tones and considered textures with subtle nods to its coastal setting; think pink stone surfaces and French washed walls, warm lights and soft leather furniture.
Entering the suite feels like stepping into a sleek magazine spread, all pristine surfaces and gorgeous furnishings. It’s not all for looks. Rooms are kitted out with Le Labo toiletries in the spacious bathroom vanity and shower, bedside panels to control different mood lighting or curtains, a Nespresso coffee machine, a Bose Bluetooth speaker and large televisions. Yet no TV show can beat the view from the private balcony, especially after I realise I can regularly spot the tell-tale water spray from migrating whales.
Freshened up, I hit Lito for breakfast. Unlike most hotel restaurants, hidden away and frequented only by guests, Lito casually spills out on to the promenade. Towering glass doors open up to let the ocean breeze into the high-ceiling space and the smell of coffee and sound of music to drift out, luring a near-constant stream of locals for a takeaway coffee or a sit-down brunch. While I’d happily linger for hours, I inhale a deliciously nourishing bowl of sauteed kale, roast kumara, avocado and toast alongside an iced latte and prepare to hit the streets. Or, more accurately, street.
James St may be just 220m long, but Burleigh’s shopping strip is stacked with trendy labels like Rhythm and Afends, with charming boutiques such as Emte. and Carmel’s and, of course, an abundance of sports and surf labels scattered around. On a weekday morning, it’s active but far from busy, and I delight in the process of quietly browsing along the shops. If you find yourself peckish, there’s no lack of cafes and restaurants scattered along James or the neighbouring streets, but I save my appetite for my next stop, Tarte Beach House.
A 15-minute drive away in Currumbin, the charming white villa is perched on the banks of Currumbin Creek. Busy for lunch, I’m warned it’ll be a 40-minute wait for food, but armed with a good book and a sunny table on the veranda, I’m in no rush. Even if I were, the chunky chicken sandwich and its thick layer of creamy miso mayonnaise are worth the wait. Admittedly, I’m not only at Tarte for the sandwiches, and after lunch, I take advantage of its stand-up paddleboard/kayak rental and hit the wide, flat estuary. The hour flies as I slowly paddle towards the ocean, passing giant pelicans above and baby stingrays below, waving hello to one or two fellow kayakers. Pausing a moment, I sit back and let my heartbeat and mind slow, bathing in the ocean breeze and white noise of waves crashing in the distance.
Thanks to an unshakeable fear of stingrays, I save a swim for back at Mondrian. Nabbing one of the pristine cream and sage loungers on level two, I wade into the long rectangular pool and spend a few delicious hours rotating from these two spots.
Right next door, Mondrian’s seamless blend of casual, coastal and class continues at Haven. The signature restaurant’s menu is proudly surf-to-plate, while the decor is a beachy palette of brunette wood, wicker and tan leather seats alongside playful touches like fish-shaped glass water jugs and pink speckled marble tabletops.
At the long mirrored bar, some people stop by for a drink before dining elsewhere, while others park up by the open kitchen for an upscale meal. On Sunday night, it’s quiet, with just five other groups dining, but between the soft music, warm design and swift, friendly staff, Haven hums with a comforting, intimate energy.
Whether you order the chilled seafood platters, generous mains or small plates, local produce is front and centre of every dish. There are a handful of vegetarian options, but the menu is best suited to those who love meat and kai moana with lavish dishes like slow-cooked lamb shoulder or woodfired scallop alongside seasonal oysters and caviar.
Prefer something more casual? After I tell the kindly concierge I am visiting Currumbin, she tells me Tommy’s Italian is a must-visit spot. This little two-story eatery is right across from Currumbin Beach and serves up crispy gourmet pizza, decadent pastas, sourdough focaccia, and, of course, a rich, creamy tiramisu. My advice? Book one of the three tables on the outside patio for the best view.
As I return to the balcony to watch the last of the day fade, it’s quite clear that Burleigh may not own the spotlight, but it’s certainly having its moment in the sun.
BURLEIGH HEADS, GOLD COAST
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to the Gold Coast direct with Air New Zealand.
DETAILS
Mondrian Gold Coast | mondrianhotels.com/gold-coast
Tarte Beach House | tarte.com.au
New Zealand Herald Travel visited courtesy of Experience Gold Coast and Mondrian.