Parque Tres de Febrero in the Argentine capital. Photo / Unsplash
Alessia Armenise travels for a living, but nothing stole her heart like this South American city.
Working as a writer means I’ve been lucky enough to live in some incredible destinations, from a seaside town in Italy to Paris and London, with stints in Amsterdam, New York and Barcelona. For years, I have moved around trying to find a place that had it all – somewhere that could blend the never-ending opportunities of the British capital with the sweeter lifestyle of a Spanish or Italian town, but nowhere ever seemed quite right.
After spending my entire adult life searching for the perfect city in Europe, I decided to expand my quest to South America to explore what cities there could offer and what we could learn from how people do things differently over there. My first stop was Santiago in Chile, a place that absolutely nobody, including my Chilean friends, recommended. Against all odds, I quite like this sprawling metropolis framed by the Andes, but it didn’t make me say “I could live here”.
When I decided to stay for a month in buzzing, eclectic Brazil, I thought that might be it, but as much as I still dream about the pão de queijo (small cheese bread balls) I ate every morning in Rio de Janeiro, I never felt like I could finally unload my suitcase and stay for a while longer than planned.
As fabulous as it could seem, travelling for a living often means living out of a suitcase, and not always in the most glamorous ways. After a few months of non-stop travel, I was ready to spend a week in my last destination before flying back to Heathrow. But one week became two, and then four, and then six. The more I stayed, the more my desire to get back to London dissipated. Six months after I left, not a week passes without me looking up flats to rent in Chacarita, my favourite neighbourhood in Buenos Aires.
It took me two years to start feeling comfortable in London. Paris has me in a constant love-hate tug-of-war, Italy has a claustrophobic feel you’d find in a tiny village, and New York just feels too overwhelming. In all the years spent living in different places, nowhere made me feel at home as much and as fast as the Argentine capital did.
There is something special about Buenos Aires that I haven’t found in any other city – a perfect mix of refinement, beauty and vivacity that is so hard to attain. Looking up while walking in Retiro or Belgrano, you could be in Madrid or Paris, but down in Puerto Madero, with the stands selling choripan (a sausage sandwich), live music and groups of people dancing everywhere on Paseo de la Gloria, the city’s Latin soul comes out.
During my almost two months in San Telmo, a charming traditional neighbourhood that features some of the city’s oldest buildings and famous attractions, I tried to immerse myself in the city’s life to experience what it would be like to be a “real” porteña. I worked at my local coffee shop, Punto Cafe, alongside students and freelancers. I went dancing at La Grande every single Tuesday, even though I hadn’t seen a dancefloor in years, and I tried every single restaurant recommended to me.
But as much as the food was amazing, the public transport so good it makes most European cities look comparatively sub-par, and the nightlife intensity Ibiza-level, the thing that made Buenos Aires a place I never wanted to leave was its people.
I have never encountered so much openness, hospitality and warmth as I have in that city. I started a TikTok account while there to see if I could fill my “for you page” with local tips, and somehow I gathered a few hundred porteños who were telling me how to best enjoy their city. I have had people send me Excel sheets of their favourite restaurants, women share their numbers in case I found myself in a pickle and needed help, and people inviting me to join them for asado at their homes.
But the kindness wasn’t just a digital phenomenon. Once, I found myself a few pesos short for a bus ride, and the woman behind me paid for me, saying, “No es nada (it’s nothing)”, to my visibly astounded face. Earlier that week, a museum guard showed me pictures of all the Argentine desserts I had to try, while most people I talked to tried to convince me that I just must move there – “¿Por qué no?” after all.
I find myself wishing to be on a LATAM flight every week since I left, and it’s just a matter of time before I cave. In the meantime, I have rounded up my perfect 24 hours of eating in Buenos Aires if you only have one day in the city.
Finding a good cafe in Buenos Aires is easy, but some are better than others. Punto Cafe is my go-to in San Telmo, but on the northern side of the city, Lharmonie makes some tasty treats, while Anchoíta Panadería is the best place for brunch and lunch. For a more traditional break, Varela Varelita is a cafe where you can enjoy a vermouth and a huge sandwich at a very affordable price.
To start the evening, Grapin makes great cocktails and has a good selection of local wines in a lovely setting. The best parrilla I had was at El Ferroviario, although El Secretito was also delicious. Argentines love ice cream, so it’s a must to finish off the night. All the cool kids go to Rapanui, which is admittedly delicious, but after long research, my favourite place is Scannapieco in Colegiales.
