It’s always sunny somewhere in Western Australia. Photo / Getty Images
Get a good dose of winter sun and vitamin D without travelling all the way to Europe. It’s always summer somewhere in Western Australia, writes Dianne Bortoletto.
Just over the Ditch, on the far side of Australia is a state so big that New Zealand could fit into it nine and a half times. At two-and-a-half million square kilometres, Western Australia occupies one-third of the continent and has more than 12000km of coastline.
Its sheer size means that it’s always summer somewhere in WA.
During Western Australia’s winter, it’s “dry season” in Broome and Kununurra, the two major towns in WA’s north. Daytime temperatures range from high 20s to mid-30s and evenings, while cooler, are usually balmy.
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Broome and Kununurra, separated by 1100km of road, are the western and eastern gateways to the majestic Kimberley region, one of the most remote and ancient destinations on the planet.
It’s an otherworldly wonderland of natural springs, thunderous waterfalls, pristine beaches, and lush oases amid skyscraper gorges, rust-red dirt and endless plains of spinifex.
The Kimberley region is the size of Spain, Germany and Norway combined and sparsely populated with just 40,000 people. There are fewer people per square kilometre than anywhere else on Earth.
While both Broome and Kununurra offer good options for accommodation, eateries, fuel and supplies, it’s what lies beyond that attracts travellers back time and again.
Hiring a car – make it a four-wheel-drive so you can take it on unsealed roads - is a good idea to explore the area. It’s also worth booking tours on the ground and in the air for a true appreciation of the scale and enormity of the untouched region.
The coastal town of Broome is where the Outback meets the sea with impossible-to-believe colours. The rich terracotta earth is flanked by deep green mangroves and lapping iridescent aquamarine waters.
The wide sandy shores of Cable Beach stretch for 22km and it’s subject to the king tides the area is known for, reaching 13m during their peak.
Cable Beach is the perfect place for a sundowner, a local term for a drink at sunset. Watch the giant orb sink over the ocean, below the horizon, illuminating the sky all hues of orange and pink. It feels miraculous.
Established in 1880s, Broome was a wild frontier, attracting workers from Indonesia, Malaysia, China, Japan and Europe during the pearling boom. Along with strong First Nations cultures, these influences give Broome a vibe unlike anywhere else.
Broome is known for producing the finest and largest South Sea Pearls in the world. Exquisite pearl showrooms including Paspally, Willie Creek, Linneys, Kailis, and Cygnet Bay Pearls rub shoulders with casual country pubs, Asian eateries and laidback breweries.
About an hour’s drive north of Broome is Willie Creek Pearl Farm offering a cruise in the mangroves to see how the lustrous spheres are cultivated.
On Roebuck Bay, take a cruise by Broome Whale Watching, to spot the rare snubfin dolphins. Snubfins have a round head without the common elongated dolphin snout and they catch fish by spitting water in the air to mimic insects landing on the surface, which attracts fish. Manta Rays, turtles, dugongs and bottlenose dolphins are often spotted in the mangroves and protected bay.
For a closer look and deeper understanding the mangroves, join Narlijia Broome Tours by Yawuru man Bart Pigram, who explains Broome’s indigenous history and culture.
Broome also has perfectly preserved dinosaur footprints from several species, fossilised in rock dating back 120 million years.
Crocodiles are a living relic and the only surviving reptile from the dinosaur era. You might even spot a saltwater croc in Broome.
Freshwater crocodiles are less aggressive and tend to keep to themselves unless provoked, whereas saltwater crocodiles are big, aggressive and should never be approached. Always follow the warning signs.
The freshwater crocodiles are easily spotted in and around Kununurra. In town, in Lake Kununurra which is part of the Ord River, it’s said that there’s a freshwater crocodile every 10m. That doesn’t deter locals who fish, waterski and swim.
Barramundi fishing is a huge lure to fishermen who come for heli fishing and fishing charters.
A Triple J Cruise along the Ord River is one sure way to fill a memory card. The spectacular scenery is endless, from bird life, marshes, towering gorges, rocky ridges, and ranges in every shade from orange to rust-red and dark brown. At sunset, the vista intensifies as the reflections of the banks and the sky above is reflected on the glassy water.
Although Kununurra is small, its population is just 5000, it has several art galleries featuring local and indigenous artists and fine jewellery stores specialising the coveted Argyle Pink Diamonds. Mined less than 200km away at the now-shuttered Argyle Diamond Mine, it’s said the rare pink diamonds increase in value roughly 12 per cent per year. The pink beauties range in colour from vivid magenta to the softest blush, just like the sky before dawn breaks.
From fine jewellery to a sky filled with sparkles, the minimal light pollution creates the optimal environment for star gazing and attracts astrophotographers, as well as landscape and wildlife photographers, from around the world. Kununurra is already planning for the 2028 solar eclipse.
Two vantage points in Kununurra are Kelly’s Knob, a popular sunset spot, and on the edge of town, the Mirima National Park which has several picturesque walking trails. Walk alongside gorges and keep an eye out for the resident rock wallabies who hop about freely. Step up to a beautiful lookout over domed rock formations dubbed the mini-Bungle Bungles.
The Unesco World Heritage-listed Bungle Bungle Range at Purnululu National Park can be best appreciated with a scenic flight or helicopter ride. The giant beehive rock formations rise 300m to the sky and have distinctive orange and black sandstone layers built over 350 million years, making them one of the world’s most fascinating geological landmarks. With a guide, take a hike to caves that house indigenous rock art dating back to the Ice Age.
En route, fly over tiered waterfalls, a patchwork of agriculture pastures, verdant oases, and the manmade Lake Argyle so big its classed as an inland ocean, capable of holding 20 times the water volume of Sydney Harbour.
A rite of passage for four-wheel-drive adventurers, the Gibb River Road stretches 660km from Kununurra to Derby, most of it unsealed. “The Gibb” crosses vast outback plains, past the Cockburn Ranges, through grand cattle stations the size of small countries and across crocodile-inhabited rivers that flood in the wet season.
An unmissable experience around Kununurra is showering under a waterfall and taking a dip in a freshwater pool created by nature. Near Kununurra, there’s Molly Springs, which is said to have fertility powers, Black Rock Falls with Valentine Springs and Middle Springs.
By four-wheel-drive about an hour from Kununurra is El Questro Wilderness Park, where you’ll find the popular Zebedee Springs and Emma Gorge. The latter, while the water is icy, is welcomed after the rigorous two-hour hike to reach it.
The 1.5km walk under a canopy of palms to Zebedee Springs is as lovely as the restorative dip in its temperate thermal waters. Plan to arrive before 7am to be one of the first through the gates when it opens. After 12pm, it closes for the exclusive use of El Questro resort guests.
Seeing the Kimberley is merely one dimensional, it’s a place you need to feel. From the rich, red-coloured earth exudes a magnetism, an energy, a feeling that truly captivates every visitor. Locals refer to this as “the Kimberley magic”. Once the spell has been cast and the red dust gets into your veins, there’s no remedy except to plan another trip there soon.
Stay
Cable Beach Club Resort – the only resort overlooking Cable Beach and has 225 rooms and suites, five restaurants, two pools and a L’Occitane Spa.
Oaks Broome – apartment-style accommodation, perfect for self-caterers.
Moonlight Bay Suites – apartment-style accommodation close to Broome’s China Town.
Discovery Park Broome – cabins, caravans and camping at Roebuck Bay.
Eat & Drink
Sydney Cove Oyster Bar - after 33 years, the iconic restaurant lost the land tender at Circular Quay but Sydney’s loss is Broome’s gain with its fresh seafood a hit with diners at Cable Beach.
At Cichetti at Cable Beach Club, try a delicious take on an Italian staple, Paspaley pearl meat, prawn and crayfish tail tortellini.
Papa Fuego takes the tropical Broome setting and adds a lively South American atmosphere, serving succulent chargrilled steaks and cocktails.
The Aarli’s boasts Southeast Asian share plates like kingfish sashimi, crispy eggplant and coriander pork banh mi sliders make for a satisfying trip into Broome’s Chinatown.
Matso’s Brewery has built a cult following thanks to its ginger beer, mango beer and chilli beer.
Recently opened is Spinifex Brewery, where native ingredients are often used in the brews.
Visit
In August during the two-week Shinju Matsuri Festival, the highlight event is the long table dinner positioned on the sands of Cable Beach.
Stay
Freshwater Apartments – lovely pool area, free laundry facilities and every apartment has a private outdoor shower
Kimberley Grande – spacious motel-style accommodation that has a pub, bistro and sports bar on site.
Kimberleyland Waterfront Holiday Park – cabins, caravans and camping on the banks of Lake Kununurra. Spilled the Beans café on site does good coffee and a great brekkie.
El Questro Wilderness Park - from the luxurious homestead, comfortable cabins or economical onsite tents, plan a hike to the gorges and swim in the freshwater springs during the day, and lose yourself while stargazing at night.
Eat & Drink
The Pump House, about one kilometre out of town sits above the Ord River with incredible sunset views of the glassy river and faraway ridges. You might even spot a crocodile from the deck.
The Hoochery in Kununurra is Australia’s oldest continuous distillery, and its tacos are a perfect filler to accompany a rum and gin-tasting paddle.
Family-run Ivanhoe Café, a Kununurra local favourite, has tables under shady trees and chickens roaming free. Try the house-made buckwheat wraps and fresh mango smoothies.
Wild Mango Café is air-conditioned and a popular breakfast and lunch spot in town.
Visit
In May during the nine-day Ord Valley Muster festival. The hallmark event is the black-tie dinner at the Kimberley Moon Experience concert.
GETTING THERE
Broome lies some 2000km north of WA’s capital Perth, while Kununurra is about 3200km northeast.
Kununurra is closer to Darwin, just 800km by road.
Both Broome and Kununurra can be reached by a direct flight from each other as well as from Perth. Kununurra has direct flights from Darwin, and Broome is serviced with direct flights from Melbourne and Sydney.
DETAILS
The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.