Hakuba hosted events during the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics. Photo / Go Nagano
Whether you’re a powder junkie or simply keen to experience Jappow (the country’s famous powder snow), Japan is a winter wonderland that tops most skiers’ bucket lists. Tamara Hinson shares the powder paradises worthy of your radar.
Niseko is on Hokkaido, Japan’s northern-most island. It’s one of the world’s most spectacular ski destinations, and its three areas (Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri) huddle in the shadow of the volcanic Mt Niseko-Annupuri. Expect an abundance of powder – ski seasons are long here, starting in late November and lasting until May, and there’s terrain for all abilities. Visiting for the first time? Consider basing yourself in Grand Hirafu – it’s the largest resort, with a wide range of accommodation (including the very cool the igloo-like villas at Andaru), and it’s also where you’ll find Toshiro’s Bar, a buzzing après ski venue with a massive selection of Japanese whiskies.
Over 11m of snow (or yuki, in Japanese) falls on this Nagano ski paradise every winter. It’s enormous, with 10 resorts – although most people base themselves in Echoland, Happo-One or Wadano, which are connected by regular free shuttle buses. Happo-One is the busiest resort, with the best slope-side hotels (many of which have onsens) and the most varied terrain, including some seriously challenging off-piste descents. A top tip? Don’t forget to stop by one of the slopeside vending machines, whether it’s for a beer or a can of hot coffee (the latter makes a brilliant handwarmer – just shake the can to reheat).
Shiga Kogen’s nickname is Snow Monkey Town, so if your ski resort-related priorities aren’t moguls but monkeys (specifically the Japanese macaques you’ll see soaking in the area’s hot springs), you’re in the right place. Primates aside, this Nagano resort is one of the most beautiful places to ski and snowboard, partly due to its designation as a Unesco Ecopark, and it’s particularly suited to beginners and intermediates (only 20% of the terrain is suited for advanced skiers). It’s also one of Japan’s least-westernised ski resorts and is famous for its crowd-free slopes. The accessibility is still top notch – all but two of the 18 individual ski areas are connected by lifts.
Say hello to one of Japan’s swankiest ski areas – a powder paradise in the centre of an area known as the Hokkaido Powder Belt. It’s brilliantly kid-friendly with a wide range of slopeside hotels (families typically base themselves at the sprawling Club Med), making it perfect for skiers and snowboarders who value easy access. Bear in mind that if you’re an experienced powder hound, this probably isn’t the resort for you – the terrain is best suited to beginners and intermediates, and its south-facing position means fresh snow can quickly get slushy on warmer days. The upside? Plenty of sun, so need to dig out those thermals.
A 24-run resort spread over two Hokkaido peaks, Kiroro is a destination famous for its fine, dry powder, and there’s certainly no shortage of it – up to 20m of the stuff falls here every year. It’s not the cheapest ski resort, but huge sums of money have been poured into Kiroro, which has a fast, efficient network of ski lifts (the majority of the chairlifts have pull-down hoods, for example) and a packed calendar of activities for children. Most visitors opt to stay in one of the resort’s two Club Meds, although there are a handful of luxurious, slopeside condos, too.
A hat-trick of high-altitude playgrounds, Kagura comprises three areas: Kagura (the largest and highest), Tashiro (perfect for beginners) and Mitsumata (ideal for intermediates). The majority of the terrain sits at 1800m and above, which means there’s plenty of snow at this Niigata resort, famous for its off-piste areas and tree runs, most of which are easily accessed from ski lifts. Speed demons will love the Y3 Challenge Burn run, reached via the Tashiro No 6 Romance ski lift – just remember to take a breather and admire the views of Lake Tashiro.
Love to challenge yourself on powder-blanketed steeps? Furano is for you – you can descend over 900m during a single run, and there’s plenty of the white stuff to cushion any falls. But not just any snow – Furano is a magnet for those seeking Jappow, Japan’s famously dry, light powder, the result of Siberian storm systems which pass over the Sea of Japan before dropping their payload on this mountain region of central Hokkaido. The resort is split into two sections: Furano itself, and Kitanomine, which sits at a lower altitude. While the latter feels more like a village, Furano feels livelier – there’s a huge hotel and several restaurants, although it’s still got a family-friendly vibe, with onsens, not après ski, being the off-piste activity of choice.
The Hokkaido resort of Rusutsu is known for its off-piste tree runs – in many Japanese resorts, this type of terrain is strictly out of bounds, but the rules err on the relaxed side in Rusutsu. There’s plenty to do once you’ve slashed your way through the resort’s powder stashes too, whether it’s the indoor theme park or the beautiful sento (bathhouse) at the Westin hotel. It’s also a great resort for foodies – hardly surprising given agriculture, after tourism, generates the most income. Head to any of its restaurants to find menus filled with locally-grown asparagus and potatoes, and don’t miss the opportunity to try Rusutsu pork, a cutlet of tender meat battered and coated in cheese. Apparently, calories are easier to offset at altitude …
Sapporo Teine is just 14km from the city of Sapporo. Known for its wide, meandering runs, it’s great for beginners, and there’s a fantastic snow park with boxes, kickers and rails. The crowd-free slopes in the Olympia Zone are a reminder that this resort has hosted the Winter Olympics (another nod to the games is the supersized sculpture of the famous torch), and the Highland Zone is where you’ll find some of the resort’s steepest runs. If you’ve got kids in tow, don’t miss the Dinosaur Kids Park, where they can whizz down the mountainside on an innertube under the watchful gaze of an inflatable Tyrannosaurus rex.