Crossing the Flinders Ranges on the Ghan. Photo / Dave Atherton
Nannette Holliday follows in the footsteps of Afghan cameleers, on a journey through the Red Heart of Australia
Looming larger than life against the almost cloudless Top End sky, The Ghan's two vermillion engines hum on the tracks, its shiny silver tail snaking nearly a kilometre behind, anxious to start its 2979km journey south to Adelaide. Even the blazing Darwin sun doesn't deter guests from eagerly congregating around it for their selfies or group photographic evidence of their momentous holiday.
There's nothing salubrious about Darwin's train station. It's as rugged as the surrounding countryside. But there is notoriety about the train patiently waiting trackside. The Ghan is one of the world's epic train journeys, taking its passengers through the heart of Australia.
A once-in-a-lifetime experience, The Ghan travels from Darwin, Australia's most northern capital, through central Australia to Adelaide, South Australia's capital. Or in reverse over a three, or four-day journey.
While Australia's centre can be experienced by road or flights between major towns, it's impossible to see, feel, and do as much as you can in the comfortable, stylish decadence that comes with the slower, romantic, old-fashioned appeal of The Ghan. Travellers can enhance their experiences by enjoying extra days in and around Darwin and Adelaide. Or break the journey and discover more of Australia's heart at Alice Springs and Uluru.
You feel the distinctiveness from the moment you step aboard. Not only are you treated like a special guest from a bygone era, but the train's remarkable history surrounds you. An adventure that began with the Afghan cameleers who first established this route through Australia's harsh environment during the 1850s, the Adelaide to Alice Springs rail line has operated since 1929. The Alice Springs to Darwin section was only completed in 2004.
The Ghan is a fully inclusive, fully immersive experience that treats you to an array of regional gourmet foods and beverages as you're transported through juxtaposing landscapes and on up-close and personal off-train iconic and Indigenous experiences. It's peaceful, adventurous and spirited, leaving you with exhilarating vibes at every intimate section.
We've already absorbed Darwin's history, delivered by our knowledgeable bus driver on the way to the station. While settling into our ensuite cabin, more history fills our ears from overhead speakers. The train's guide keeps us updated, always ready to highlight upcoming photo opportunities along the journey.
As the Ghan slowly departs, we get our "train" legs sorted heading to our Gold Class Outback Explorer Lounge. Three separate Gold lounges, Queen Adelaide dining cars, and a Platinum Club car service the various sections of the train. This ensures comfort and personable space for the maximum 283 guests and 49 staff. Our journey has 153 guests and 43 staff.
Raising our champagne glasses, we toast our newly found friends as Darwin's horizon disappears, replaced by verdant bushland and towering rustic termite mounds. It's a soothing scene that washes away life's hustles and bustles.
Virtually every guest echoes the same sentiment. Since Covid, they've realised what matters most to them. Ticking their bucket list items and making the most of special celebrations is number one. Here with family and friends, they're celebrating milestone birthdays, anniversaries, retirement, and many are experiencing the Northern Territory for the first time. They also liken the train check-in to boarding a ship cruise, only much more organised and pleasant, with passenger carts ferrying those not wishing to walk to their carriage.
Taking our seats in our Queen Adelaide Restaurant car, the white linen-covered tables and finely engraved art deco glass screens further evoke aristocracy's bygone era, sipping G&Ts served by white-gloved waiters.
Our wait staff don't have white gloves but are smartly attired in crisp red, white and blue striped shirts and dark blue tailored trousers with brown leather belts — a distinctly Australian outback look. Their outfit is topped with a tan Akubra hat when they're escorting guests during our off-board experiences. Their broad smiles greet us for eloquently prepared breakfasts, lunches, and dinners throughout our journey.
Each meal and perfectly paired Australian wine is a separate gourmet extravaganza tailored to the region through which the train is travelling. Each menu features matching botanical illustrations by acclaimed South Australia artist Caitlin Thomas and a story about the various ingredients.
Our epicurean journey includes succulent saltwater crispy-skinned Humpty Doo barramundi, rich grilled kangaroo fillet, mild buffalo curry, grilled crocodile tail, smoked kingfish, Coffin Bay oysters, Spencer Gulf prawns, Port Lincoln sardines, Coorong mullet, mango parfait, Murray Valley apricots, Adelaide Hills cheeses, saltbush, rosella and much more. Even the artisan bread rolls are prepared by South Australian bakery Paesano to the train's special recipes to complement each meal. The wattleseed and Tanami spiced roll was irresistible.
Using locally sourced suppliers, ingredients and native garnishes, the onboard chefs prepare each mouth-watering, 5-star presented plate. Seven chefs travel on each journey. Across the three kitchens, two chefs work in tandem like well-oiled machines in their confined space. It's a masterfully curated partnership, and many have been working on board for years.
The lead chef in our kitchen, Russell Seymour, has worked on these trains for 13 years. Other chefs count 10 and 24 years. The reason they stay? They love the lifestyle and the people they meet on every trip. No two days are the same, admits Russell, "Plus we're creating and plating 5-star meals to appreciative guests who can order every meal on the menu if they wish." And some guests do.
Before and after each meal, our lounge car is the hub of laughter and reliving our various adventures. The bar staff are equally attentive, creating barista coffees to inventive cocktails for us to try. No one looks at the time. After all, everyone on board is on holiday. The holiday of a lifetime, and we're appreciating the pampering.
The Darwin to Adelaide train stops in Katherine, Alice Springs and Manguri and Coober Pedy (only between May and August). The Adelaide to Darwin train stops in Marla, Alice Springs and Katherine.
At each train stop, we head to the marked bus of our chosen excursion. Again, our driver delivers fascinating local tales and history as we head to and from our destinations.
On a Nitmiluk Gorge cruise in Katherine, our guide, Magnus, relays his indigenous heritage stories. The striking cobalt sky, dotted with fluffy cotton wool clouds, and the soaring ochre gorge walls reflect in the soft green waters enveloping our small boat. We're all mesmerised by the scenes and stories. It's easy to visualise his ancestors' early lives here.
A helicopter flight over the surrounding region and gorges is an optional extra. Between May and October, a Katherine Outback Experience is also an included excursion.
Everyone asks about the "red" centre on our guided walk through Alice Springs Desert Park. Our indigenous guide, Rueben, lifts silvery-green grassy tuffs revealing the deep red ochre sands underneath. Recent heavy rains in Alice Springs have transformed the usually deep rusty surrounds to varying shades of serene greens. Only the bare rock faces along the West MacDonnell Ranges above us display flashes of the blazing orange-reds of the region. But the new foliage means multiple stops, as Rueben explains the abundant surrounding bush tuckers.
The Desert Park bird show fascinates everyone as the different birds fly above our heads or walk between our seats. However, we all agree the star of the day is the exceptionally cute 3-year-old echidna who slurps a milky mixture and waddles around. He's been raised by park rangers since his mother died when he was barely a few days old.
In Alice Springs, a Simpsons Gap walk and School of the Air tour are also included. For an additional cost, guests can relive Afghan life on a camel ride or enjoy a three-hour helicopter flight around the region to Mount Gillen and the Larapinta Trail.
That evening our train stops at Manguri after dinner. Lanterns line the sides of the track to permanent wooden picnic tables. The inky sky above overflows with sparkling diamond-encrusted stars as we mingle with other guests and staff while sipping our after-dinner drinks. Wafts of cool breeze herald the season's imminent change.
During dinner, staff transform our cabin seats into beds, complete with chocolates on the pillow. The rhythmic white noise of the train's wheels and gentle rocking is pure bliss. Sleeping with the blinds up ensures you see thousands of stars flash by and wake pleasantly to a pastel sunrise and new painter's palette — a potent recipe for soul restoration.
One thing we all agree on, while the days have disappeared too quickly, memories of every wonderful experience, delicious food, accompanying drinks, and superb staff interactions will be forever etched in our minds as the most comfortable and relaxing way to see Australia's mighty heart.
DETAILS
The Ghan departs Darwin on Wednesday and Adelaide on Sunday (Feb-Apr and Sept-Nov), priced from $2635pp Gold twin, and departs Darwin on Wednesday and Adelaide on Saturday (Apr-Sept) priced from $3825pp Gold twin. Prices are all-inclusive. journeybeyondrail.com.au/the-ghan
From skipping the queues to planning your parade spot, here's all you need to know.