City beach in Perth. Photo / Tourism Australia
The truth about Perth might come as a surprise to some, but the reality is that the good-natured, sun-kissed people of Western Australia's capital live in a land of stupendous natural beauty, a fact largely unknown by the rest of the world. I think they might be some of the happiest people in Australia. And, as a visitor, It is just a great city to spend time in.
The first thing you have to get right on arrival here is the accommodation and you could do a lot worse than finding yourself at the edgy QT Perth Hotel, lying around on one of the plush couches in the groovy rooftop bar, ordering negronis and making new best friends with... well, everyone really. Perthites can't stand to see someone sitting on their own so the barman talks to you, the people next to you talk to you, famous people across the terrace wave at you. Hanging out in Perth is like taking a popularity pill - even if you have zero social skills, you'll still feel like family.
There is a big Aboriginal culture and presence in Perth which is quite wonderful. A must do, for all sorts of reasons including listening to Walter's jokes and decking yourself out in a kangaroo fur cleverly toned to go perfectly with your Issey Miyake pants, is a bush tucker tour of King's Park. You walk around the park with Go Cultural enjoying the spectacular views over Perth city, listening to history and traditional stories of how life was pre-colonisation, smelling leaves, tasting berries, plants, nuts and flowers and identifying medicine plants. It's a bit like public sculptures - you don't really notice them till they are pointed out to you.
My favourite activity after the bush tucker tour, and one I think is really worth doing is to grab a Two Feet and a Heartbeat walking tour. I did the Eat Drink Walk Bar Tour to find out what it's like crawling around Perth at night when you don't know anyone but the guide and other participants. We strolled through the winding laneways full of partying people, visiting dive bars and rebuilt heritage pubs. Our stops included Long Chim Thai hotspot in the State Buildings, to the classic but chic Heritage wine bar serving some of the best food in Perth, then yelling our heads off at The Flour Factory and ending up at sultry downstairs French bar Bobeche. I was so enchanted with the Paris bar decor and rabbit terrine, I briefly considered just moving in and living there. All serving luscious Western Australia wines - talk about a lucky region.
If you feel like some high-end dining as you make your way around Perth, sashay into the very swish Ritz-Carlton on the Swan River and sit yourself down at Hearth Restaurant. Chef Danny Feng uses only local WA produce and bush tucker and he has a very sophisticated touch. They're mad about fire there (Hearth, get it) and throw everything they can on the wood fire.
I insinuated myself into the kitchen and instead of assuming I was there to do the dishes, the chefs welcomed me, cracked jokes, introduced themselves and agreed to teach me how they make the smoked olive oil that is served with the bread. They told me they pour oil into a bowl then put a lump of smouldering coal in a little bowl which they float in the oil, quickly putting a lid on to keep the smoke in. It only takes a few minutes and the result is gorgeous. By the way, you can do this with butter and yoghurt too.
I ate smoked local scallops with apple, fennel, scallop dashi and finger limes; local fire-roasted wagyu beef with Jerusalem artichoke (madly fashionable in WA); charred leek and fermented shiitake jus; and local camembert icecream with toasted sandalwood nuts and grilled strawberries. Eating beauty.
Swan Valley is cute because it's so close - we drove but you can also cruise down the Swan River to get there. Quickly you find yourself in another world full of vineyards, restaurants, cheese workshops, coffee works, honey makers and lovely historic villages.
Yahava KoffeeWorks is divine - you can see the whole process, drink all kinds of indescribably good coffee and buy outrageous coffee machines for the space on your bench just begging for attention. Mandoon Estate produces boutique premium wines and has three restaurants. They also have accommodation so once you've had a refined meal at their Wild Swan restaurant you can swan off and have a lie down.
Fremantle is another gorgeous place only 20 minutes from Perth, famed for its seafood, historic architecture, beauty and fun atmosphere - it's kind of like a tiny, funky Perth bursting with boutiques, very good restaurants, delis and bars. I ate in a huge repurposed factory turned into a fabulous communal dining restaurant called Bread in Common. Again, all the food is locally sourced, the bread homemade, the chefs generous and friendly - including Kiwi expat owner and executive chef Scott Brannigan.
The last thing I did before leaving Perth was what everyone there does - had a cocktail with friends by the Indian Ocean at Island Market restaurant and bar. We drove 20 minutes out of town along the Sunset Coast and hit the turquoise water and pure white sand of Trigg beach, home to one of Perth's best surf breaks. There we reflected on the meaning of life and how easy or not it is to balance on a boogie board.
Checklist
PERTH
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Perth once a week throughout March, rising to three times a week from April. airnz.co.nz
DETAILS
For more things to see and do in the region, go to westernaustralia.com
Please check the latest border restrictions in each state and territory before travelling. For more information visit australia.com
The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.