A must-do is an early-morning walk from Hora towards the 11th-century monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa. Photo / Getty Images
Hi Eleanor, Where can I have an authentic Greek island experience? I'm not into hordes of tourists. Angelika
I have two Greek Islands for you: Amorgos and Iraklia, although there are certainly many more good options. There is at least one ferry each day departing from Athens' port of Piraeus
to Amorgos. The trip is one of the longest and usually lasts from 8-10 hours.
The best advice for Greek ferries is to leave it in the hands of The Fates. In the shoulder season tickets can usually be bought an hour before scheduled departure. Turn up early, check where the boat will dock, retire to a kafeneio, then be in the right place at the right time.
Wherever you go, stay a while. By slowing down you'll gain a new appreciation for the many colours of the sea, the sun-ripened tomatoes, the cobbled paths, the changing light, the wildlife - and the locals.
Amorgos is renowned for its stunning hiking trails, landscape, architecture, caves and beaches. Ensure you are well-informed about the trails' degrees of difficulty, and whether they are passable. Essential is an early-morning walk from Hora towards the 11th-century monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa. Climb 300 steps to a cliff face 300m above the sea, walk through the low marble doorway and take the staircase to the chapel, where treasures and icons are kept. You will be rewarded with gorgeous views of the Mediterranean and perhaps a treat or two from the monks. From there, descend towards the lovely little pebble beach of Agia Anna. Other good beach options include Tris Ierarches, Aghios Pavlos, Kalotaritissa, Mouros, Maltezi and Aghios Panteleimonas.
