The Everest Base Camp trek makes for an unforgettable journey. Photo / Getty Images
The Everest Base Camp trek makes for an unforgettable journey. Photo / Getty Images
In more ways than one, trekking to Everest Base camp is less about the destination and more about the journey, writes Tsewang Nuru Sherpa
The pursuit of trekking in the Everest region and experiencing this high-altitude euphoria without the perils of extreme risk is the journey I’ve always yearned for.Also, let’s face it, this is the closest I’ll ever get to that fabled 8846.52-metre giant. So, mid-December 2022, as the peak trekking season was dwindling to an end, I embarked on the trek to Everest Base Camp with my father.
It started with an exhilarating 29-minute flight in a 14-seater prop plane from Kathmandu to Lukla, whirring over the picturesque mountain passes and villages. Landing on the 527-metre runway at Tenzing-Hillary airport, instantly dwarfed by the towering mountains, I felt the cold breeze of the fresh mountain air, and beamed with excitement for the coming journey. Ahead was 120km of trail, three thousand metres of elevation, seven days of exertion and acclimatising – oh, and several thrilling crossings on lengthy suspension bridges.
The Everest Base Camp trek covers 120 km of trail and three thousand metres of elevation. Photo / Supplied
Arguably the creme de la creme of all the great high-mountain hikes, the trek to the highest-reaching Everest Base Camp provides a panoramic vantage of Everest, Lhotse (8516m) and Lhotse Sar (8383m), three of the highest peaks on Earth in one glance. And of course, many other mountains. But it’s the Himalayan way of life and immersing in the local Sherpas’ Buddhist culture and traditions that leave the their mark from this unforgettable journey.
One of my favourite experiences was hiking from one village to another; each of these little hamlets is a hub of lodges and tea houses, harmonically co-existing with local residences. Passing through these villages, I experienced a way of life affected by the trekking business, yet deeply rooted in local Sherpa culture. There’s a palpable sense of community, generosity, and spiritual significance everywhere.
The ritual of stacked stones can be seen all along the Everest Base Camp Trek.
Photo / Supplied
The trekking trail is freckled with elaborate Buddhist monuments and traverses Sherpa hamlets adorned with colourful prayer flags, chortens (pagoda-style monuments), and painted mani stone structures inscribed with the chant “Om Mani Padme Hum” (structures meant to bring good karma). They are an unexpected feature of an already spectacular experience. I visited three monasteries - Tengboche, the largest monastery in the region was my favourite. The opportunity to witness the live morning chanting and receive a blessing from the head monk for a safe journey was one of the highlights of the trip.
I discovered that most of the classic Everest trek trail ascends through 1148 square kilometres of Sagarmatha National Park, a Unesco World Heritage site since 1979. On my acclimatisation day in Namche, I toured the national park museum, situated on a perfect lookout spot above Namche Bazar. This small, simple museum is a great introduction to the area with exhibits covering the people, culture, geology, and history of the region. I was mesmerised to see my first view of Everest, along with Mount Lhotse and the valley across Mount Ama Dablam.
Catching a first glimpse of Everest, along with Mount Lhotse and the valley across Mount Ama Dablam. Photo / Supplied
When I reached Base Camp at 5364m, looking at the signs and prayer flags, emotions got the best of me. With a teary smile, the reality of what I had achieved was finally setting in. Earlier that morning, I had returned to a guest house with a mild headache and felt completely exhausted. Redeeming myself on my second attempt to reach Base Camp, I felt a steady, sun-warmed joy all day. At Base Camp, I was overwhelmed by the experience: my courage to say “no” and return; the encouragement from fellow trekkers to try again; the clear and cloudless sunlit sky; the support from my father; the congratulatory cheers, and knowing it was my own two feet that got me there.
The perfect ending to my Everest trek was a steep hike to Kala Patthar (5540m), where the sunset shifted light on to the spire of Everest, with a brilliant cluster of tents at Base Camp below.
A brilliant cluster of tents at Everest Base Camp. Photo / Getty Images
Checklist: Everest Base Camp
GETTING THERE
Fly Auckland to Kathmandu with Air NZ and Singapore Airlines, with one stopover in Singapore. The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla takes 30 minutes and is dependent on weather conditions.
DETAILS
When to go: Weather during pre-monsoon (March or April) and post-monsoon (November) are ideal- clear skies and perfect visibility of the mountain. It is possible to trek during the winter season too – (December to February), the trail is less crowded but many accommodations are closed, and the trails are covered with snow making it difficult to navigate.
Accessibility: Though the Nepal Tourism Board ihas imposed mandatory guides and trekking permits for 44 trekking trails, the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, under whose jurisdiction the Everest region falls, has said it is not mandatory to hire a guide, although highly recommended. Instead, a digital entry Trek Card is currently being implemented in the region, and trekkers must get one.
