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Home / Travel

A winemaker's guide to enjoying the Hawke's Bay

NZ Herald
22 Aug, 2021 01:00 AM3 mins to read

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Dawn over Te Mata Peak, Hawkes Bay. Photo / 123rf

Dawn over Te Mata Peak, Hawkes Bay. Photo / 123rf

Throughout my winemaking career I've had the privilege of living in regions across the country including Central Otago, Canterbury and Nelson, but always knew I wanted to put down roots in Hawke's Bay.

I settled here in 2008 and for the past eight years have been the chief winemaker at Leftfield – a brand that challenges winemaking norms by focusing on atypical grape varieties and quirky non-traditional blends utilising grapes such as albarinño, arneis, malbec, and tempranillo (most of which are grown here in Hawke's Bay).

Naturally I love the outdoors so if I'm not in the vineyard I often take my dog Sam to the Tainui reserve in Havelock North. It's a natural open space park where dogs can exercise off their leads on tracks that weave in and out of bush. It's always quiet and peaceful but if your dog is sociable (or it's hot out) then the Pakowhai Regional Park is the place to be. The locals just refer to it as "The Dog Park" and there's loads of space to run around, beautiful plantings of natives and specimen trees, and a nice clean stream for the dogs to jump in and cool off.

For something a bit more fast-paced get on your bike and head to the top of Te Mata peak for epic views looking back over the Heretaunga Plains and Ruahine Ranges, or for a more leisurely ride get on one of the limestone bike paths that are all over the region. Autumn is a great time to visit because we still get beautifully clear, still sunny days without the strong winds of spring or intense heat of summer. It's also harvest time so the region is humming with activity.

Hastings is a hotbed of happenings, particularly the East Block which has undergone significant development of late. You can get great coffee at Cupple, the most amazing sourdough from Ya Bon French Baker, craft beer from Brave Brewing and artisanal gin from Hastings Distillers, all within a block of each other. Longer-term residents like The Common Room and Cornucopia Organics are nearby too, so there are plenty of cool pockets and places to visit within walking distance.

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If you're looking for somewhere to stay in Hawke's Bay, Wallingford would have to be my pick. It's a boutique luxury hotel and restaurant in one of New Zealand's oldest homesteads near Porangahau, about an hour south of Hastings. The food from chef Chris Stockdale is incredible and they even grow their own truffles. At the right time of year you can take part in truffle weekends which involve hunting for the delicacy, cooking classes and of course consuming plenty of delicious food and wine.

Richard Painter is a winemaker at Leftfield Wines, Hawkes Bay.

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