Exploring further afield by dinghy or a stand-up paddle board. Photo / Supplied by Whitsunday Escape
If you’re looking for something new and thrilling to try in 2025, here’s one newbie-sailor’s how-to guide to experiencing the best of Australia’s Whitsunday Islands by boat, writes Annabel Urquhart
“If you get into strife, call us on the radio. We’ll probably read back to you what’s in your charter notes. It’s all there,” says Ryan, our fast-talking instructor with a tan and casualness that suggests he knows boats and these islands, like the back of his hand.
We’re seated around a large table on the rear deck of Coralita, the 12m sailing catamaran that will be our home for the next week. Ryan is providing our pre-departure briefing ahead of a seven-night bareboat charter with Whitsunday Escape.
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Island hopping throughout the Whitsunday archipelago is a trip I’ve longed to experience, but always discounted as too expensive, too impractical or simply (I’m not proud of this), too hard. A chance dinner with old friends 12 months ago set the dream in motion and here we are at Coral Sea Marina in the small tourist town of Airlie Beach.
It’s hot, picturesque and alive with sounds of young foreign accents ringing out over rattling trolleys ferrying supplies to boats and tour operators herding tourists.
The captain of our group, who has sailed before, stands tall and confident at the helm when we are at last on our way. The mood is a mixture of uncertainty and excitement, a great expanse of sea ahead, the wind refreshing in our hair.
There are a great many ‘firsts’ on this trip and we celebrate each of them wholeheartedly. Our first-first is to pick up a mooring at beautiful Blue Pearl Bay. There is a large amount of shouting, pointing, advice, and muscle but we hook on smoothly enough and our efforts erupt in cheering.
This is also our first chance to explore and a frenzy of activity is unleashed. The snorkel bag is wrenched from its stow, the dinghy quickly lowered, SUPs unhooked and rapid-fire negotiation ensues of who is using what, exploring where and with whom.
It quickly becomes apparent that beneath the surface of the deceptively quiet islands lies a thriving and intriguing marine world. We see countless turtles, stingray, tropical reef fish, pods of dolphins, even a whale breaching.
Blue Pearl Bay is a mere entree to a degustation of idyllic islands, bays and inlets that we come to know, each with a story of mishap, misadventure or rare wildlife encounters.
‘Elvis’, the enormous Māori Wrasse, has us squealing through our snorkels at Mantaray Bay and the teens love rock jumping in Butterfly Bay. The dinghy is painstakingly paddled back to Coralita on more than one occasion and one still, hot morning by the mangroves of Macona Inlet we catch golden trevally for a barbeque lunch.
Our catamaran is laid out symmetrically with each family of five occupying either hull, two bathrooms each, a spacious saloon kitchen and a further two living areas at the front and rear. The boat feels bigger and more spacious than we’d expected.
Our family slumbers deeply, waking each day with the sun. One morning I tap my husband to notice the sunrise, a beautiful rich pink, as we doze in the early hours, the sunlight and fresh sea air wafting in.
I’m surprised to find the islands almost entirely covered in dense bushland. Pine trees grow at obscure angles amongst dull-green gums, making way for towering rocky outcrops. “It’s Jurassic,” my eldest observes, and I agree. These islands appear impenetrable to the barefoot sailor; they feel wild and remote.
It’s against this backdrop that the world-famous Whitehaven Beach comes into view, carving a brilliant white slash through turquoise ocean and green-grey she-oaks.
Stretching 7km, we welcome the chance to extend our legs and the silica-rich sand feels soft between my toes. The beach is wide, pure and clean, leading to the swirling sands and aquamarine waters of magnificent Hill Inlet.
Anchoring here is a great base from which to explore and one morning I slip off on the SUP to do just that. I am alone, but for the company of stingrays skirting above patterned creases in the seafloor.
Later, another catamaran has pulled up bearing friendly faces. Sharing a drink in the afternoon sun, music drifts as we watch our scantily clothed teens perform tricks into the water.
It’s wonderful to be living freely at sea, alone and insignificant in nature’s big, beautiful spaces, although never too far from Whitsunday Escape’s watchful gaze.
This trip and these islands have exceeded my expectations. It’s like camping, only better. And just like camping, I’m ready for a shower.
We’ve booked a three-night stay on Hamilton Island, the perfect bookend to our Whitsundays’ adventure and the sudden availability of amenities is a feast for our seafaring senses.
While some of our crew make a beeline for the loos and Bob’s Bakery for its renowned fare, I’m content ogling the superyachts dwarfing us, taking in the picturesque marina, palm-fringed and orderly, buzzing with activity.
Slipping into resort life is easy. Soon we’re well acquainted with charming Catseye Beach, the various pools and pool-side menus and we’re smug getting around in our neat little golf buggy.
But our teens have a hankering to dial up the speed and the options are extensive. From jetboating and wakeboarding to ATV tours and helicopters, we lock in jetskiing, another first for us all.
Like ducklings, we tentatively follow our guide, Beau, out of the marina. I’m driving, with my eldest sitting behind me.
To both our surprise and delight, I’m confident flooring our ski, reviling in its speed and appreciating the stunning beauty of deserted waters and coves as we circumnavigate the island.
“Burn as much fuel as you can and have fun!” Beau cries, tapping my inner-octane as she leads us home.
Everyone is hungry when we take our seats at Manta Ray, one of an impressive selection of restaurants to choose from. The plates are best shared; we devour slow-cooked lamb shoulder and overindulge in churros served with both chocolate and caramel sauces.
Another evening, my husband and I dine at Mariners. Its elegant setting, beautiful wines and delicate seafood plates, feel a long way from snags on the rear deck of our catamaran.
Our journey comes full circle on an early morning walk to Passage Peak. At its pinnacle we’re rewarded with 360-degree views and I spot Hill Inlet in the distance.
Strolling home along Catseye Beach, we admire a new boutique hotel in the final stages of construction. The Sundays is a lux family offering of 59 rooms over three levels. Simply laid out, the rooms appear well designed to maximise space, style and function, each with a soft natural palette blending to Coral Sea views.
Our time has come to head home, the mood is sombre at best. It’s a five-minute shuttle to Hamilton Island airport, and another 10 before we’re checked in and through security, waiting to board our flight.
This is the luxury of travel without hassle, in step with island life.
Book bareboat charters with Whitsunday Escape. Our seven-night charter cost just over AUD$1000 (NZ$1101) per day per family. Prior sailing experience is required, alternatively hire a skipper for AUD$400 (NZ$440)per day.
Bookings at The Sundays are open now for May 2025. Connecting rooms are available for families with older children.
whitsundayescape.com
The writer travelled as a guest of Hamilton Island and with assistance from Whitsunday Escape.
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