There are many cool neighbourhoods in Copenhagen. Photo / Getty Image
The capital city of Denmark, Copenhagen, remains one of the most criminally overlooked destinations in Europe, but things are slowly changing and 2024 has seen a huge surge in visitors, writes Shelley Rubenstein
Kudos to Copenhagen for its flourishing culinary scene, held in such high regard that when Geranium scooped the top title at the World’s Best Restaurant awards in 2022, barely an eyebrow was raised.
Indeed, since chef René Redzepi first achieved this hotly-contested accolade for the innovative Noma more than a decade ago, Copenhagen’s cuisine has been influencing chefs and tantalising palates worldwide.
But Denmark’s capital excels in far more than culinary expertise. A glance at the contrasting skyline displays how seamlessly historical buildings of the city’s rich past merge with contemporary cutting-edge – yet functional – structures.
That former 17th century stock exchange, Børsen, with its four dragon tails-entwined spire rising upwards, continues to hold its own on the ever-evolving horizon is remarkable. Especially given the growing array of dazzling new-builds. So accomplished is the quality of Copenhagen’s design, Unesco decreed it World Capital of Architecture in 2023.
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Notable as one of the happiest places in the world to live, the locals do sustainability without being smug, plant-based without preaching, and style without the swagger.
And while Copenhagen has effortlessly mastered nonchalant Nordic cool, it does so with the geniality you’d expect from the nation which invented hygge. Significantly, their definition has nothing to do with flogging fancy homewares and everything to do with creating a cosy environment akin to being embraced in a warm hug.
Copenhagen’s excellent infrastructure makes it easy to navigate your way around. Its flatness is a cyclist’s haven and public transport is efficient and user-friendly. It’s also a joy to wander around on foot, taking an impromptu turn down an interesting cobbled street or strolling nonchalantly along the river, following its lead.
While Copenhagen is an ideal short-break destination, it’s worth spending a little more time here to delve deeper, exploring the various neighbourhoods and experiencing life from a local’s perspective.
Copenhagen is a city surrounded by water, and seeing it from this vantage point is a must. To identify the landmarks unfurling en route, download the Danish Architecture Centre’s (DAC) app and hop on board the yellow harbour “bus” which runs on electricity. Costing the same as a regular bus ticket, there are nine stops where you’re free to disembark for exploration.
There’s plenty of architectural thrills along the route such as the striking Black Diamond housing the Royal Library sitting on the harbour or the brick pyramids of the work-in-progress aquatics centre. Jump off at the hip Refshalevej area to catch an exhibition at Copenhagen Contemporary or dive in with the swimmers at Islands Brygge.
For an expert’s insight into the city, sign up for a tour with DAC, whose guides work via metro, boat and on foot.
As we traversed through Copenhagen, they shared their encyclopaedic knowledge of the city’s evolution and harbour regeneration. There are various walking tours to choose from and the ticket price includes entrance to DAC’s exhibitions and the opportunity to interact with their most fun exhibit – Carsten Holler’s giant slide.
Founded in 1843, Tivoli remains one of Copenhagen’s greatest attractions and one of the most delightful ways to spend a day. The elegant gardens proved inspiration for writer Hans Christian Andersen and Walt Disney, who created his own amusement park when he saw the joy Tivoli brought to its visitors.
Dominated by Nimb hotel’s quirky Moorish palace façade, its interior is refreshingly Scandi chic. At its heart lies a world-class bar resplendent with gleaming chandeliers. The fairy-tale menu is inspired by some of Hans Christian Andersen’s most beloved stories. Don’t leave without sipping the jewelled violet elixir of “The Snow Queen” from a delicate glass shell.
Oens Have
Reopening on April 25, Thursday through to Sunday, there’s no better place to bring in the weekend than Oens Have. All traces of the former shipping company that formerly resided here have literally been dug up and a bountiful urban farm planted in its wake, creating a green oasis of calm. Wines are natural and organic and menus are determined by what’s ripe and in season.
They embrace collaborations with local producers, like nearby bakery Lille whose outstanding sourdough is perfection. The tasting menu is perfectly balanced with modestly sized dishes that pack a zingy punch but the unexpected hero dish is a sunflower seed risotto with kale shoots, each mouthful better than the last. If you’re in the area on a Tuesday, sign up to volunteer in the garden with payment in the form of tasty leftovers.
ARK
One delectable mouthful at ARK illustrates why they were awarded a Michelin Green Star for their creativity with plant-based cuisine. Sure, they’re ticking all the right zeitgeist meat-free and sustainable boxes, but this is purely down to a passionate quest to create the best flavours and textures supplied by Mother Earth and “to get everyone excited by plant-based food”. British chef, Brett Lavender’s refusal to serve anything mediocre has upped the gastronomy antes even further in this foodie-obsessed city; the “foie-gras” interpretation could surely persuade a carnivore to renounce meat forever.
Marchal
For classy old-school glamour, book a table at Marchal and sample “modern French cuisine with a Nordic touch”. Be sure to ask for a window seat for the best people-watching spot in town overlooking Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Square).
Copenhagen dining extends beyond Michelin-starred eateries and the city is ideal for solo travellers and those on a budget. Folkehuset Absalon is a hub of social activity for those craving a little human interaction. Pull up a seat in the friendly communal dining room which serves up simple quality fare at 6pm daily.
There are quality street food choices aplenty by the harbour bridge near Nyhavn and at the bustling Reffen in Refshaleoen.
For the Noma experience at a fraction of the price, a team of veteran chefs opened POPL Burger. This is “fast food” gourmet-style using superior Danish beef made from free-roaming cattle, while the vegetarian burgers were developed in Noma’s “fermentation lab” and promise to tantalise the tastebuds.
Explore the city’s various neighbourhoods. Discover why the culturally diverse Norrebro was hailed the coolest neighbourhood in the world by Time Out in 2021; stroll down Frederiksberg’s wide tree-lined boulevards and drop by the autonomous hippie enclave of Christiania.
There are many streets scattered around the city with superb shopping opportunities; you’ll find a diverse selection in Vesterbro’s Istedgade and Værnedamsvej and canny vintage shoppers visit Blagardsgade and Elmegade.
We made a beeline for Bjorg to pick up one of their iconic anatomical heart necklaces, created as a tribute to the eponymous designer’s father when he became ill with heart disease. For well-curated concept stores, you’ll be torn for choice at Holly Golightly and LOT 32. And if you’re looking for an artistic memento, pop into Galerie PI where you’ll find plenty of talent on display selling pieces at affordable prices.
If you have a spare day, take a short excursion to Helsingor to visit Kronborg Castle, the former home of Shakespeare’s Hamlet, Prince of Denmark, where there’s much subterranean action to explore in its hidden tunnels and secret passages. A five-minute walk leads you to the M/S Maritime Museum to learn about Denmark’s fascinating nautical history. Hop back on the train for a 20-minute journey to Humlebæk and immerse yourself in the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Your appetite suitably whetted, head to a charming enclave of fishermen’s cottages overlooking the sea. Here, you’ll find restaurant Sletten specialising in small plates comprised of the very best ingredients.
Hotel D’Angleterre
There aren’t enough superlatives in existence to extol the virtues of this grande-dame of a hotel. Even if you’re not staying here, you should pop by and admire this national institution which has reigned supreme for nearly 300 years. Bedrooms are plush without being showy, each adorned with tasteful art from the owner’s personal collection. Floral displays are exquisite and the beds are invitingly sinkable providing the ultimate in comfort and support. Service is exemplary; breakfast offers a feast of flavours and the location is unrivalled.
Sanders
Sanders exudes the cool homely vibe reminiscent of a private member’s club you might expect when three characterful 19th-century houses are joined together. The home-from-home luxury vibe is created by the artfully combined collection of furniture and muted palettes selected by owner Alexander Kolpin, once considered to be the world’s greatest ballet dancer during the height of his performing years. There’s no better way to start the day than having breakfast in the rooftop conservatory and finishing off the day with a nightcap at the hotel’s bar, TATA.
Kong Arthur
A brisk 20-minute walk from the town centre, Kong Arthur provides a good base for travellers. The hotel sits by the water and its pleasant courtyard is ideal for savouring the generous breakfast. Get to know fellow guests during the daily 5pm “cosy hour”, where a complimentary glass of wine, beer or apple juice is offered to guests.
GETTING THERE
Emirates, Qatar Airways and Air NZ, in codeshare with Singapore Airlines, all fly from Auckland to Copenhagen with one stopover.
DETAILS
The Copenhagen Card offers free public transport and entrance to 89 attractions. Price starts from DKK439
visitcopenhagen.com
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