The Venice Simplon Orient Express is an art deco icon, a century of grace and elegance reflected in its vintage cabins, classic cuisine, onboard entertainment and the landscape outside. Photo / Belmond
Agatha was here. In those grainy black-and-white mysteries on the classic movie channel; those days spent trying to solve impenetrable mysteries from tattered paperbacks pulled out of the bookcase in the bach on a summer afternoon when the weather didn’t live up to expectations.
The greatest, most puzzling, of the Queen of Crime’s conundrums happened on a train. Not a train like the 5.30 from Britomart to Swanson, but the most storied of them all, wending through days and nights to reach its exotic destination, pulling out of foggy, Empire-era Victoria Station in London, crossing snowbound Alps on its way to the ludicrously Art Deco Sirkeci station on the banks of the Golden Horn.
Its carriages peopled by Charleston-era flappers and bucks, slurping cocktails and foie gras. Waited upon by porters and butlers and white-jacketed waiters. Retiring to gorgeous compartments lending themselves to romance, intrigue and murder.
A century on from that golden age of steam, of hedonism, the luxury train is back. Even though the revived Orient Express is not – despite what Kenneth Branagh’s luxuriant moustache would have one believe – the most glamorous hotel on wheels.
All aboard! These are the world’s top-of-the-line rail experiences.
Indian Pacific (Sydney-Adelaide-Perth*)
The track that runs from one ocean to the other, the 4352km twice-weekly run between Perth and Sydney is one of the world’s longest and most memorable train trips, taking three days and three nights to cross the continent, with off-track experiences thrown in. Almost 500km is a dead-straight line across the Nullarbor Plain. Groups of travellers can hire Australia’s most luxurious railway wagon, the very chic and very private Chairman’s Carriage, with three double suites and one twin suite, accommodating up to eight people. Swathed in earthy tones, elegant decor and plush upholstery, the carriage also has its own dining and lounge area with leather banquettes.
British Pullman (various themed routes)
Downton Abbey on rails: plush upholstery, mosaic floors, timber-panelled walls, custom-crafted fabrics, brass fittings and softly shaded lamps. All cars are Art Deco masterpieces from the 1920s-30s that have been lovingly restored; each take 20-26 passengers on weekend trips through the British countryside. Routes are built around country-house, historic, horticultural or literary themes (yes, there is a Murder Mystery Lunch). Dining is considered an art form: tables set with spotless white cloth, shining silverware and impressive crystal, gourmet meals accompanied by fine wines selected by the onboard sommelier.
The Canadian (Toronto-Vancouver)
One of the world’s legendary long-haul journeys, The Canadian is a three-day, three-night barrel-ride across the vast nation, through Ontario’s forests and lakes, the western Prairies and the breathtaking Rockies. Over the decades the train has become renowned for courteous service and outstanding dining, that reputation enhanced by recently updating its magnificent cars. Way to go: a suite, two cabins combined into a travelling apartment for two, available on specific legs of the east-west route. Besides shower access, checked baggage, priority boarding, additional pampering includes fresh flowers, chocolates on the pillow, top-quality wines and breakfast in bed.
Hiram Bingham (Cusco-Machu Picchu)
Named for the US explorer who stumbled on the Inca ruins in 1911, PeruRail’s one-day round-trip is the most luxurious way to make this once-in-a-lifetime journey. Settle into the elegantly upholstered blue-and-gold carriages; toddle down to the two 42-seat dining cars serving local specialities and Peruvian wines at brunch on the trip to Machu Picchu and dinner on the evening return to Cusco. Gobsmacking views through the panoramic windows are complemented by beautiful china, silver and linen. Afternoon tea is served at Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge.
Eastern & Oriental Express (Bangkok-Singapore, 4 days 3 nights; Singapore-Bangkok, 3 days 2 nights; Bangkok-Kuala Lumpur)
The golden age of travel lives aboard this train which winds over 2000km through Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and into Laos, past Khmer temples, tea plantations, bustling towns, remote mountains and jungles and languid rivers. Not content with one layer of luxury accommodation, the express provides three grades of beautifully appointed compartments with cherry and elm panelled walls, decorative marquetry and intricate inlays. The two Presidential Cabins are touted as the ultimate in high-end rail suites (some of the next services might beg to differ), a private lounge during the day, converted to two single beds at night with private bathroom and complimentary bar. Breakfast and afternoon tea are served in the compartment; lunch and dinner in the restaurant cars, lavishly decorated with rosewood and elm panelling, with onboard chefs creating Asian and European dishes.
The Blue Train (Cape Town-Pretoria)
Running eight times a month, this 1600km, 54-hour trip has been regarded one of the planet’s supreme travel experiences for more than 50 years. There are two Blue Train sets: one accommodating 74 guests in 37 suites and the second with 58 guests in 29 suites, plus a conference or observation car at the rear. As on all these high-end trains, the luxury suite is a comfortable lounge during the day; in the evening, the butler will convert it into a bedroom – on this train, with a double bed. Bathrooms are fitted with deep, long baths for slow, luxuriant soaking. There’s a private digital entertainment centre for big-screen movies or music. The dining experience is taken up another notch; gourmet meals on fine china; South Africa’s stunning wines in crystal glassware – and live music from jazz to string quartets. Dinner is formal - jacket and tie for men, evening dress for women. High tea is served in the lounge car each afternoon.
Venice Simplon Orient Express (various routes)
Europe is the home of the luxury train, and anyone making tracks for the Continent will be spoiled for choice - the Danube Express, Central Europe’s ultimate “hotel on wheels”; Spain’s El Transcantabrico, hugging the Camino trail; Portugal’s Presidential Train through the wine-soused Douro Valley. The true train buff may hanker for the two-week, two-continent Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express between Moscow and Vladivostok; let’s just say we don’t advise booking that one at present. No, it has to be the most fabled train of all, the Venice Simplon Orient Express; its destination boards a roll-call of romance, Venice Paris Budapest Istanbul Prague Berlin… oh, and London too. The revived train is an Art Deco icon, a century of grace and elegance reflected in its vintage cabins, classic cuisine, onboard entertainment … and the landscape outside. Just keep an eye on your fellow passengers, especially if there’s snow about.
Maharajas’ Express (various themed routes)
For the ultimate in luxury rail experiences, India is the place to go. The country boasts several of the world’s most eye-opening trains, often running on the former maharajas’ private lines and using their historic, imperial-level carriages (suitably air-conditioned, bathroomed and Wi-Fi-enabled, of course). The Maharajas’ Express is the creme: voted the world’s leading luxury train for six years running with its three-week journeys - Indian Splendour, Heritage of India and Indian Panorama - and the four-day, three-night Treasures of India. Its Presidential Suite, named Navratana (“nine precious gems”), occupies an entire carriage and has a living room, two bedrooms and two bathrooms, sleeping up to four. Facilities include mini-bar, live television, internet, telephone, DVD player; bathrooms with full-size tubs; 24-hour valet; onboard paramedic; language-speaking guide and limo for off-train excursions. Two fine-dining restaurants cater for regional Indian and Euro-style dining. Oh, how much? For those week-long trips, $NZ40,672.75 each. SuperGold cards not accepted.
*All routes run in both directions unless otherwise noted.
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