6 Things to know before visiting Portugal: Tips for Kiwi travellers

Portugal’s rolling farmland is central to its identity. Photo / Sarah Pollok

There’s no denying Portugal has been enjoying its status as one of the ‘hot destinations’ this year. It’s the spot on everybody’s lips, or should I say, bucket lists and I heard the refrain “oh, I really want to go there” countless times before, during and after a two-week visit this summer.

It makes sense. While most Europe trips circle France, Spain, Italy and Germany, few reach the long, skinny nation hugging Spain’s west side. Thus, Portugal seems somewhat exotic, yet still deeply European, with acutely trendy hubs like Lisbon and Porto.

I wasn’t entirely without inside help during my first trip, thanks to travelling with a local Intrepid Travel guide. Together, with our small rag-tag group, we learned a lot about what to do (and not to do) in this trending country.

1. Say ‘thank you’ correctly

Google ‘how to say thank you in Portuguese’ and it will tell you ‘obrigado’. Alas, there is more to it. Like any good traveller, I arrived in Portugal knowing how to say ‘hello’, ‘please’ and ‘thank you’. What I failed to realise, until a local pointed it out, was that the latter changes depending on the speaker’s gender. There I was, throwing around ‘obrigado’ when, as a woman, I should say ‘obrigada’. Fortunately, my friend explained, breaking this rule is the verbal equivalent of resting your elbows on the dinner table; not especially rude and mainly observed by the older generation. However, if you’re a stickler for proper grammar, you’ll adjust your ‘obrigada’ but keep the gender neutral ‘ola’ and ‘por favour’.

Dona Caterina, a lifelong Arraiolos local, chatting about politics. Photo / Sarah Pollok

2. Time your espresso like the locals

After a long day of travel, it’s tempting to order an espresso as you sit down to lunch or dinner.If you do, the waitstaff will bring one, but just know it’s capital-T Tourist behaviour. Like most of Europe, coffee in Portugal is enjoyed in espresso form after a meal, not during or before.

Case in point, when taking our wine orders before dinner at a homestay in Castelo Rodrigo, I watched the host, Isobel knit her brows as one young man requested an espresso. A flurry of Portuguese between Isobel and our tour leader followed but you didn’t need a translator to understand her confusion at the seemingly absurd request. ‘Espresso, before dinner? This man is crazy!’ her gestures said. He did indeed get his pre-dinner espresso but those eager to fit in with the culture will wait until plates are cleared.

Espresso comes after a meal, not before. Photo / Unsplash

3. Prepare to chat politics

Spend more than five minutes chatting to a cafe server, bus driver, hotel receptionist or tour guide and you’ll probably find yourself discussing politics. A topic often reserved for a second date (at least), it’s one openly broached, whether you’re at a bar in Porto or on a farm in Alentejo. This makes sense; from socialism to communism, Portugal’s politics has deeply formed people’s way of life in a tumultuous way.

Unlike my fellow American and Australian travellers, I wasn’t interested in debating policies or parties. Fortunately, those content to simply ask questions and listen can learn a lot about the country through the eyes of its residents.

A young tour guide in Porto was tentatively happy about the recent conservative party win but critical of nomad visas as they hiked rent prices. A farm hand in Arraiolos described the country as politically unstable, complaining how Portuguese youth didn’t work as hard as her generation, while a Lisbon cab driver studying engineering said they dreamed of moving to America for more money and a better life.

No conversation turned heated (possibly as I was content to just listen) but all were surprisingly open.

A woman listening to street music in Porto. Photo / Sarah Pollok

4. Pastel de nata is the real deal

As a traveller who values authenticity, I often fear obliviously falling for a tourist trap; engaging in something that may once have reflected the culture but has since been co-opted and exaggerated by tourism (think gondola rides in Venice or waterfall ceremonies in Bali). When fellow travellers said I had to try pastel de nata in Portugal, I was hesitant until a Porto local assured me that the iconic custard tart was beloved by the Portuguese too, sometimes even daily.

If you want a properly good tart, there are two things to look for, according to Chef Miguel Rodrigues, who runs cooking classes at the Lisboa Food Studio. First, a proper pastel de nata should not be too sweet. High sugar content often means it’s been made for Western palates or, to extend its shelf life, which leads to point two; it must be fresh from the oven. “You must eat it within the hour, otherwise it doesn’t taste as good,” Rodrigues explains. “You must go wait in line and have it fresh.” For top-notch tarts, try Manteigaria (a chain but good quality) or Lisbon’s famous Pastéis de Belém.

Pastel de nata are loved by both locals and visitors. Photo / Unsplash

5. Salted cod is everywhere

One thing you may not know before visiting Portugal, but you’ll quickly realise once there, is that salted cod is a big deal. You’ll find this cured fish (called Bacalhau) on menus all around the country and it tends to have a potent fishy smell and fibrous texture like a tough candyfloss. A decidedly unadventurous eater, I passed on the first few opportunities to try the delicacy, but after nibbling on the corner of a Bolinhos de bacalhau (salted cod fritter), I realised that, beyond the odd smell and texture, it was surprisingly tasty.

Try it first as a fritter, which is less fishy thanks to the mix of potato, eggs, parsley and onion.

Drinking wine at Quinta da Pacheca in Portugal’s Douro Valley. Photo / Sarah Pollok

6. Get out of the cities

Lisbon and Porto’s vibrant streets, trendy shops and cute cafes are a delight but as with any destination, the cities only tell half (if that) of the story. To better appreciate Portugal, you need to see another side, whether that’s the acres of thick vineyards around the Douro Valley or the vast Eastern plains cloaked in golden grass. Beyond the cities, you’ll find ancient medieval ruins steeped in history and bucolic farmlands without a high-rise in sight, quaint villages with ornate cathedrals and locals clustered around the same little restaurant or a family-owned cork factory that harvests cork oak trees (a product Portugal produces 50% of worldwide). This is undeniably far easier with a private car and a tour guide who can effortlessly lead you through big city crowds and tiny towns.

Getting out of major cities offers the best of Portugal’s charm. Photo / Sarah Pollok

Details

For more information on Intrepid Travel’s eight-day “Portugal Real Food Adventure, featuring Galicia”, visit intrepidtravel.com

New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of Intrepid Travel. Portuguese