Western Australia's capital, Perth, holds the title of being the largest isolated city globally, making it a unique destination for travellers seeking something off the beaten path. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
Western Australia's capital, Perth, holds the title of being the largest isolated city globally, making it a unique destination for travellers seeking something off the beaten path. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
The 7.5 hour flight from Auckland to Perth, covering 5000km and more than one in-flight movie, could feel off-putting for the average holidaymaker. But there’s so much to do in Western Australia, it’s well worth the journey, writes Julia D’Orazio.
There’s no use sugar-coating it; WesternAustralia is a slog to get to. Its capital, Perth, is the largest isolated city in the world. But as a homegrown Perthite, I promise it’s worth the almost eight-hour sleep direct from Auckland to arrive on golden shores. Or are they fiery red? Or snow-white? Answer: all the above.
Instead of researching for the long-haul, I’ll make it easier by revealing Western Australia’s most incredible places to stretch your legs and back.
Underwater adventures of a lifetime in Ningaloo
I’m going to start the list with a personal favourite: Exmouth. The far-flung coastal town, 1253km north of Perth, is wedged between yin-yang scenery: Cape Range National Park, a mix of ancient limestone ranges, gorges, canyons, arid plains, and white coastal sands; and Ningaloo Reef, the world’s largest fringing reef system.
Ningaloo Reef warrants high levels of exertion. Here, marine life thrives below turquoise waters, with the flourishing underwater playground home to more than 500 fish and 200 coral species just metres offshore. Multiple tour operators offer the swim of a lifetime alongside the Ocean’s Big 3: whale sharks, humpback whales, and manta rays—the latter two returning residents, migrating off the coast from autumn to spring.
Other off-kilter activities include diving the passport-required Exmouth Navy Pier with Dive Ningaloo. Much revered by avid divers, it is the world’s only operational naval base that permits commercial access to the colourful chaos of marine life below it. I can attest that the hour-long flipper-thon is an overstimulating swim with sightings of grey nurse sharks, sea turtles, potato grouper, and large schools of trevally, to name a few jetty dwellers.
Out of the water, have a real red-dirt experience at Bullara Station, a reimagined Outback stay. The working cattle station offers campsites, a shearer’s lodge, bell tents, and secluded deluxe safari huts under towering gum trees. Despite its remoteness, there are many places to socialise: legendary burger nights, campfire gatherings, and table dinners in the revamped Woolshed, where guests are encouraged to mingle. And for the novelty factor, cool off at the station’s Insta-famous open-air Lava tree showers with watering cans as showerheads. Pretty cool.
Ningaloo Reef, the world's largest fringing reef system, provides an unparalleled underwater experience with over 500 fish and 200 coral species thriving just meters from the shore. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
Sip and dip on repeat
Visiting the state’s premier wine region, Margaret River, has never been more accessible thanks to new direct Jetstar services from Melbourne and Sydney to regional hub Busselton. But once you arrive in “Busso”, where to begin? Start with a walk along the longest jetty in the Southern Hemisphere, Busselton Jetty, snaking 1.8km over the Indian Ocean. Beneath it, dive or snorkel in the new underwater sculpture park crafted by local artists. And when needing to recharge, seek Shelter. The ever-popular foreshore brewery offers bistro pub food and craft beers under one big shed opposite the jetty.
Moving on from city life is little sister Dunsborough, a 25-minute drive south. It, too, is experiencing a boom with the opening of a new eat, play and stay village, Southcamp. Moments away are the region’s most famous coastlines, Bunker Bay and Meelup, both with sparkling blue waters. The latter is a top spot for a sundowner barbecue with kangaroos out and about around dinner time.
To immerse yourself in wine country, stay at Edge Luxury Villas. Four new self-contained villas dubbed “Maldives in Margs” jut out over a small lake, surrounded by forest. On its doorstep is winery Swings & Roundabouts, ever popular with its swing seating overlooking rolling vineyards, and Beerfarm, a rustic brewhouse with American-inspired barbecue eats and hillside slip-and-slide rides. To be a kid again…
Want to go all out? Visit the new haute cuisine restaurant de’sendent in Margaret River town for a locally-sourced degustation by regional culinary hero Evan Hayter.
australiasouthwest.com
Situated on the southwest coast of Western Australia, Dunsborough is renowned for its stunning coastal scenery, with sparkling blue waters and pristine beaches. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
The Outback amusement park
El Questro Wilderness Park is tucked away in one of the world’s last wilderness frontiers. Located 110km west of Kununurra, Australia’s Eden entices with ancient landscapes – stunning burnt-orange gorges, waterfalls, natural pools, thermal springs, rivers, bottle-shaped boab trees – and wildlife spread across 283,000ha.
Access to the biologically blessed wonderland requires a short stint along the legendary Gibb River Road. Thankfully, a hairy drive is not needed along a sealed section of the 660km, mostly 4WD road that splits the park in two. On one side of the Gibb are safari-style tent cabins neighbouring the state’s dreamiest natural pool, Emma Gorge. It takes roughly an hour to hike to the Kimberley’s poster child: a magnificent scene of a trickling waterfall plunging 65m into an amphitheatre-shaped waterfall with climbing ferns on gorge walls.
On the other side is The Station. El Questro’s riverside hub is basecamp for all happenings – a Texan-ranch-inspired pub, heli rides, guided tours, campgrounds, cabins, and upmarket bush dining. Many of the park’s hiking trails and attractions are a short drive away, including the thermal pleasure garden, Zebedee Springs. It looks and feels paradisal with soaring pandanus palm forests shading the tiny, tiered pools and waterfalls lodged in a valley basin.
For peak sunset viewing, head to Saddleback Ridge. The challenging 4WD track is not for the faint-hearted, with guided tours available to bypass the sweat-inducing ride along steep, narrow roads. Once at the lookout, soak up all-encompassing views of the Pentecost Valley, Earth’s bumps, undulating woodlands, and ridgelines millions of years in the making.
El Questro Wilderness Park, located west of Kununurra, spans across 283,000ha of ancient landscapes, including burnt orange gorges, waterfalls, natural pools, and thermal springs, offering a true outback adventure. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
Board a luxury, small-ship cruise and explore the remote Kimberley region
The Kimberley region encompasses a staggering 421,451sq km and its coastline grants one of the most adventurous, less-travelled insights into Australian history and nature. Large cruise ships can’t access many of the treasures that pepper this formidable landscape, but a Silversea expedition ship is both small and ultra-luxurious. Traversing into Western Australian’s most remote reaches, no two days are the same. The ever-changing landscape ranges from sparkling waterfalls (and some, due to forces of nature appear to run horizontally) to gorges and canyons, forests and rock formations. You’ll venture into a collection of remote islands that most Australians haven’t even heard of: Abrolhos, Dirk Hartog, Montebello, Lacepedes and the Buccaneer Archipelago and use Silversea Zodiacs to explore some of the oldest rock art in the world, as well as nooks that have been left untouched for centuries. From Kimberley’s astonishing sunrises and sunsets to humpback whales and the odd saltwater croc, Silversea’s itineraries are for the born explorers among us.
Aerial shot of Silversea exploring King George falls, Kimberley, Australia. Photo / Bruno Cazarini
Hunt for mud crabs and fossilised footprints
West Kimberley’s Dampier Peninsula sticks out like the country’s left thumb, a two-hour drive northeast of Broome. The sliver is home to flaming red coastal cliffs, azure waters, white sandy beaches, salt plains and mangrove forests, to name a few dazzlers. Yet, a majority of these remarkable scenes require assistance from those in the know.
The region is home to many indigenous-led tours. Go on a topsy-turvy tagalong 4WD adventure to far-flung Hunters Creek for a freshly caught seafood barbeque with Bardi guide Brian Lee. Or tag along with Bardi guide Bundy Chaquebor. Journey through the coastal community of Lombadina to uncover ancient footprints and test your aim at spearfishing.
Learn about life in the bush on a walkabout with Bardi-Jawi guide Bolo Angus. Trek both arid salt and tangled mangroves hunting for bush foods, including spearing for mud crabs the size of dinner plates.
Set off for an island adventure with Bardi-Jawi guide and human high beam Rosanna Angus. Pass powerful tidal movements en route to former missionary island, Sunday Island. Depending on tidal movements, you may see a waterfall reef and massive whirlpools. The journey also passes untouched islands and shorelines begging for a towel.
But perhaps most captivating is Angus’ enthused storytelling. It’s easy to hang on to her every word as she beautifully recaptures her ancestors’ life with an infectious smile. She leaves a lasting impression—and so does the dream state.
The Dampier Peninsula in East Kimberley boasts stunning coastal cliffs, azure waters, and white sandy beaches, offering a range of indigenous-led tours for visitors to explore the region's natural wonders and cultural heritage. Photo / Tourism Western Australia
Checklist
PERTH, WESTERN AUSTRALIA
GETTING THERE
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Perth with Air New Zealand in 7 hours, 30 minutes.
DETAILS
To discover more indigenous experiences across Western Australia, visitwaitoc.com
