Jan Bilton: The strange history of the hamburger

The hamburger can take many forms, all scrumptuous.

Despite its name, the hamburger did not originate in Germany. In the early 19th century, Hamburg butchers did, however, chop steak very finely, combine it with onions and seasonings and form it into "steaks" or patties.

When later in the century German immigrants arrived in America, many opened restaurants. A version of the Hamburg steak appeared on menus - as the most expensive item.

But, then, during the mid 1800s, when many Americans found industrial jobs, a bun was placed around the Hamburg steak to make it easier to eat. It wasn't until 1921 that the first fast-food hamburger outlet opened in Wichita, Kansas. Now, on average, Americans consume three hamburgers a week, for a national total of nearly 50 billion burgers eaten each year. They're so popular there is a national Hamburger Day, May 28, and a Hamburger Hall of Fame in Seymour, Wisconsin.

Hamburgers are generally regarded as fatty and unhealthy. But it all depends on the filling. If you can pack at least four vegetables (raw preferably) into a wholemeal bun plus some lean meat or fish, then you have a healthy meal that all the family can enjoy. Just forget the fried chips and replace them with grilled vegetables or fruit kebabs and yoghurt.

If you want, you can substitute rice, mushrooms or a potato cake for the bun.

RECIPES

MOROCCAN BEEF BURGERS

2 fillet steaks
1 tsp Moroccan seasoning
1/2 cup prepared thin, tempura-style batter
2 each: diagonal slices of carrot & parsnip
rice bran oil for frying
1 orange
1/4 cup each: baby salad leaves, mint leaves
2 medium baps, split and lightly toasted
2-3 tbsp pomegranate molasses

Sprinkle the steaks with the Moroccan seasoning. Add a little seasoning to the tempura-style batter.

Dip the carrot and parsnip slices into the batter and deep-fry, until golden. Remove and drain on paper towels. Keep warm.

Pan-fry the steak for 2-3 minutes each side. Place aside and keep warm.
Cut 2 thin slices of orange. Sprinkle the greens with the juice from the remainder of the orange.

Place half the greens on the base of the toasted baps, then add the carrot and parsnip, the diagonally sliced steak, more greens then drizzle with the pomegranate.

Lean the bap tops on the side. - Serves 2

BLACK BEAN BEETROOT MUSHROOM BURGERS

Black bean beetroot burgers are a new product located close to the cheese in supermarket chiller cabinets.

8 large portobello mushrooms
salt and pepper to taste
2-3 tbsp canola oil
2 vine sweet mini peppers, thinly sliced
4 black bean beetroot burgers
12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup beetroot & roasted cashew hummus or similar

Discard mushroom stems, then season and pan-fry in the oil, until just tender. Remove and keep warm.

Stir-fry the peppers quickly and place aside.

Pan-fry the burgers for about 2 minutes each side or until hot.

Layer the burgers, peppers and parsley on 4 of the cooked mushrooms.

Top with some hummus then the mushroom caps.
- Serves 4

SUSHI BURGER

Fresh or smoked oysters can be used.

1 cup sushi rice
1 1/2 cups water
1-2 tbsp sushi su (ready-mixed sushi vinegar)
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp wasabi paste
200g boneless salmon
2 tbsp lemon juice
16 thin slices cucumber
4 oysters
8 coriander leaves

Cook the rice in the water. Add a little more water if necessary. Cover and stand for 5 minutes then fluff with a fork, adding the sushi su at the same time.

Meanwhile, combine the mayo and wasabi.

Place salmon in a microwave dish and sprinkle with lemon juice. Cover and microwave on high for 1 & 1/2 to 2 minutes, until just cooked. Remove skin and divide salmon into 4 pieces.

Take a mould or biscuit cutter and make 4 round rice discs. Top with the cucumber, salmon and oysters, wasabi mayo, coriander leaves and another smaller round disc of rice. Can be garnished with strips of fried nori or cavolo nero leaves. - Serves 4

STICKY CHICKEN BAGEL BURGERS

500g skinned and boned chicken breasts
1 tbsp canola oil
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup each: tomato sauce, barbecue sauce, brown sugar
1 tsp smoked paprika
4 bagels, split and lightly toasted
4 each: large frilly lettuce leaves, spring onions
1 tsp sesame seeds

Slice the chicken into 1cm strips. Pan-fry in the oil until just cooked, about 5 minutes.
Combine the sauces, brown sugar and smoked paprika and stir into the chicken. Heat for a few seconds.

Meanwhile, line the bases of the bagels with the lettuce leaves.

Trim the spring onions.

Thinly slice the green ends so they will curl then place in icy water.

Top the lettuce with the sticky chicken.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds, cover with the bagel top and insert a spring onion curl in the bagel hole.

- Serves 4