Uzbekistan fans show their support as their team take on Honduras. Photo / Getty Images
It was a classic, New Zealand scene. As millions of dollars worth of footballing talent were displaying their wares at Waikato Stadium on Wednesday, a club rugby team were being put through their paces just outside the venue.
At the other end of the stadium, just metres from the gate, another rugby side were training, under faint floodlights and in the driving rain.
"Drive, drive, drive," yelled the coach, as the players splashed around on the sodden field.
It wasn't immediately obvious in Hamilton last week that Fifa's second-biggest tournament was in town. The city streets were mostly devoid of tournament paraphernalia and fans, and at a cafe, locals were focussed on the dire weather forecast ahead of Fieldays ("It always bloody rains for that thing") rather than the Under-20 World Cup.
It was more lively inside the stadium. There were a bunch of Qatar fans, along with groups of local children decked out with Qatari hats, scarves and flags, as the team had made several school visits during their extended stay in Hamilton.
Their opponents were Portugal, who have a proud history in this tournament.
"Every young Portuguese team carries a burden," says journalist Goncarlo Guimaraes. "People always remember the magic of 1991."
That year the Iberian country hosted the tournament and beat arch rivals Brazil in the final in front of a record 127,000 in Lisbon.
"That team had [Luis] Figo and Rui Costa, who became legends," added Guimaraes. "They are always a reference point."
The 2015 version play sparkling football and a spectacular bicycle kick from striker Ivo delights a vocal group of Portuguese, chanting "
Vai, Vai, Vai
" as their team win 4-0.
Indeed, the colourful fans have been a highlight this first week, from the hordes of Myanmar supporters in Whangarei, some extravagant costumes worn by proud Uzbeks, the Fijians experiencing huge highs and lows in Christchurch and New Zealand fans filling North Harbour Stadium for the opening game.
The after-match press conference is held next to the Chiefs gym, where your gaze is momentarily drawn to the phenomenal figures on the wall, listed by 'ATB' (All time best) and best in 2015. How did Aled de Malmanche bench press 220kg? Ben Tameifuna is the current season leader with 160kg, while names like Brodie Retallick, Liam Messam and Ben Afeaki are also prominent.
Qatar showed some potential but lost 4-0. The Qatar journalists focus on the unfamiliar conditions (driving rain, cold) which their Spanish coach immediately rebuts — "there are no excuses like that".
Senegal — in bright green with shimmering yellow — face Colombia next. It's a riveting game, enlivened by the exuberant Colombian fans. They sing constantly "Vamos Colombia, Vamos que se puede" ('Let's go Colombia, you can do it') and "Esta noche tenemos que ganar "(Tonight we have to win) but are silenced early by a slick Senegal goal.
This encourages Senegal's demonstrative coach Joseph Koto, a big man with an ill-fitting Fifa bib forced over his frame. He has played for the senior side and still wants to be out there, urging his charges and kicking every ball.
Udinese forward Alexis Zapata equalises for Colombia, with an audacious 'panenka' penalty, the delicate chip almost travelling in slow motion as it brushes the underside of the cross bar. The game ends 1-1.
New Plymouth is the destination the next day. There is plenty to catch the eye along the way — an overturned truck near Kihikihi, abseiling engineers stabilising a giant rock face just out of Piopio and the swollen rivers throughout the King Country — but few signs of football fever. No posters or banners in towns along the route, no carloads of flag-waving fans heading along State Highway 3.
The day's first game, between Nigeria and North Korea, has drawn a modest crowd to Taranaki Stadium but they cheer with gusto, especially for the free-flowing African side.
The North Koreans, called the Young Chollima after a mythical winged horse, resist for 50 minutes before the aptly named Saviour Godwin scores two goals in three minutes for the Africans. This brings the brass band, in the top corner of the main stand, into full flow.
Nigeria are a powerhouse of youth football, with four Under-17 World Cup titles. Their players are drawn from famed European sides (Manchester City, Spurs, FC Porto) and less recognisable domestic clubs (Spotlights FC, Shuttle Sports Academy, Water FC and Dado Babes Academy).
North Korean coach An Ye Gun looks a strained man after the 4-0 defeat. Questions are met with courteous but cautious answers.
After being politely reprimanded by the team translator ("Not North Korea please ... Korea DPR") my final question provoked a good response, as Ye Gun talks about the heroes of 1966 (North Korea reached the quarter-finals of the senior World Cup) and how they still inspire and mentor his team.
Meanwhile, the crowd has been bolstered by Brazilian fans, their signature yellow tops peeking out from puffer jackets and scarves.
"As Brazilians we still believe we are the best," says one Auckland-based fan. "We can win everybody."
Opponents Hungary make the better start, striker Bence Mervo firing home in the eighth minute. Hungary were the best team in the world in the early 1950s but haven't qualified for the senior World Cup since 1986. But they finished third at the 2009 Under-20 World Cup and hopes are high for this edition.
They were the first team to arrive in New Plymouth, but haven't yet seen any sights ("they are just boys," says one team official. "If you release them, you can have problems.")
Elements of the crowd side with the Europeans over the more theatrical Brazilians, especially after Hungary are reduced to 10 men. But everyone admires the skills of the South Americans — their fast feet, feints and footwork is something to behold — as they seem to play in sync with the incessant samba drums. They win 2-1, thanks to a late penalty, sealing their qualification to the second round.
"It's not easy playing for Brazil," says star midfielder Andreas Pereira, who is based at Manchester United. "At the start of every tournament we are expected to win it. Nothing less."
Pereira says the Taranaki climate is "similar to Manchester" but his team have enjoyed their stay. And so have the locals.