Dr Travis Badenhorst, Scientist at Snowberry skin care and President of the NZ Society of Cosmetic Chemists, says consumers tend to 'buy down' on cleansers but 'spend up' on creams and serums, to the long-term detriment to their skin.
"We know from many studies that consumers don't see cleansing as part of their anti-ageing routine. It's like washing our hands – we do it because we know we should, but if it's done the wrong way, the implications for premature ageing of skin are serious. We have, for example, encountered women in their forties whose skin clearly shows the damage that can be caused by a couple of decades of using the wrong type of cleanser or toner. And tragically, at the same time they have spent many thousands of dollars on creams and serums that cannot repair this self-inflicted damage."
Dr Badenhorst says that we need to radically change the way we think about the role of cleansing.
"If I am asked, what I regard to be the most important way to retain healthy, radiant skin, at any age, I have just one piece of advice. Make sure that your cleansing routine is not degrading your skin's natural barrier."
What this means, he says, is that for teenagers it is crucial that acne for example, is not made worse by oil-stripping cleansers and toners. But the same then applies at any age.
Whilst we grow out of the acne years, any product that can damage the natural barrier – and Dr Badenhorst suggests that any product containing an aggressive foaming surfactant or volatile alcohol will do this, should be avoided.
"In our experience, many consumers do not understand how the natural barrier works. But all we really need to know is that protecting the lipid layer and the acid mantle, from age fifteen up, is critical to keeping skin smooth, clear and radiant. It's something we refer to as the 'Snowberry glow,' and it simply won't happen if the skin's natural pH and lipids are degraded by poorly formulated cleansing products."
Many teenagers and even some adults, he says, assume that skin should feel 'squeaky clean' after cleansing. When this happens, it's virtually guaranteed that damage has been done to the skin's barrier, and redness, irritation, and dryness will result and will lead to long-term skin conditions and increased skin sensitivity.
"Approximately 40% of women have sensitive skin. While we cannot be exact, it is highly likely that a substantial proportion of these women have accidently caused that sensitivity, or at the least, made it worse."
At Snowberry, Dr Badenhorst says, every cleanser is formulated specifically to help support the skin's barrier. And that formulation strategy mirrors what Snowberry calls its Two-Step 'Protect and Refresh' Strategy for more radiant skin.
"If mother's can give one piece of advice to their daughters about skin care – beyond UV protection, that will really help them to have lovelier skin, it is to choose cleansers guaranteed not to damage the natural barrier – and ironically, daughters can give the same advice in reverse!"
For more information: www.snowberry.co.nz