Secrets of the little black dress code

Aim coated linen dress with bow back; Helen Cherry silk viscose spotted dress; Harman Grubisa silk slip dress with sequin inserts; Trelise Cooper dress with matte sequins at neck. Pictures / Supplied.

Rumours of the demise of the little black dress have proved long premature. Long live the LBD, says Lisa Armstrong.

The Little Red Dress may be the designers' favourite party statement this year - and when it comes to traffic-stopping window-dressing, there's no question a LRD is unbeatable. The fashion world, however, appears to be having a hard time going cold turkey on its favourite (non-) colour.

Here are a few reasons why news of the Little Black Dress' demise may have been premature: Kate Moss in a black Latex tube dress, Lauren Santo Domingo in a black tux, Jourdan Dunn in black lace and feathers, Sam Rollinson in black drainpipes and marabou, Jessica Chastain, a repeat offender in a black and silver ball gown and a black, jewel-trimmed column dress . . . Even the Duchess of Cambridge worked black voile into an outfit recently when she mixed a Hobbs top with a blue skirt at the Place2B Awards at Kensington Palace a week ago.

Personally, I prefer a Little Navy Dress. On all the important points it works in much the same way as the LBD, without the severity - those few drops of midnight blue make all the difference to skin and eyes, while still packing the power of deadly nightshade. Others prefer Long Black Skirts or Slim Black Trouser Suits. The aim with all these choices is the same: to somehow stand out while looking as though you're discreetly standing back.

The virtues of the LBD are so well known, they hardly need rehashing. The chief one, though, is its supposed simplicity. Yet what looked thrillingly radical back in the 20s, when Coco Chanel first proposed the LBD, can look bland and predictable almost a century on. Even Audrey's famous LBD in Breakfast at Tiffany's has been copied into parody.

So look for subtle details that will make your LBD eyecatching: the black patent trim on this winter's v-neck, sleeveless wool tunic from Victoria. Victoria Beckham is a textbook example of a successful LBD update - and less screechy than Kate Moss' all-over wipe-clean number. An asymmetric neckline, peek-a-boo detail, contrasting sleeves, generous bow and contrasting textures are others - and can also be used strategically to contour your body and distract the eye.

Finding the perfect LBD in 2014 is an exercise in keeping your nerve. The cut and quality of LBDs vary wildly, even when you're paying top dollar. If you're on a tight budget, rest assured there are good high-street versions out there, but you'll need patience and stamina not to cave in after the 19th inferior one.

Puckered seams, the wrong kind of shine, snags, awkward lengths, cheap-looking lace, tacky embellishment and dresses that are simple without being in any way special (it's all in the cut) are to be avoided. The simpler the LBD, the more glaring the tiniest flaw. But get it right and, as Coco promised, you're on to a winner that's guaranteed to stand the test of time.

THE BODY POLITIC: FIND THE LBD FOR YOUR SHAPE

• The best necklines for big boobs are V-necks, boat necks, keyholes or square frames that lap the shoulders, creating a statuesque frame that makes the figure look elegant and in proportion.
• A raised waistline makes legs look longer.
• A-line skirts skim pear shapes - the longer the better. Pleated chiffon skirts can also be extremely flattering.
• Full silk skirts, either ballerina or floorlength, can look fabulously sophisticated with a simple top or slim, short-sleeved cashmere sweater (a la Carolina Herrera), but check the rear view before buying. A stiff fabric that holds its shape well without puffing out at strange angles, and front pleats, can help create a smooth silhouette.
• Asymmetric necklines can be extremely alluring, especially when they're semi-sheer. They're particularly good on small busts.
• Gladiator and strappy heels can stop a plain black dress from looking blah, but only if the legs attached are sensational. If your LBD is so simple that it requires extra shoe drama, but you don't have the calves for ribbon-ties, opt for colourful, lustrous fabrics, jewels, embroideries, laser cut-outs, buckles or even pom-poms. This is not the time to be coy with your footwear.
• Wearing two pieces is a good way to achieve the figure definition you want if you can't find a dress that fits. So is a dress that wraps or ties.
• Prints can be amazingly effective at distracting the eye and disguising fuller figures.
• High necklines and collars can look beautiful - on the swan-necked. Anyone else should avoid them.

THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS BACK-UP TEAM

Actually, this is more of a props list for any party outfit, be it LBD or Big Pink Ballgown. Keep the following neatly stored in one accessible place and regularly check they're up to date and in pristine order.

• A sparkling evening clutch.
• Jewelled evening shoes.
• Velvet or satin open-toed shoes.
• A multi-way bra. It doesn't have to be black: dark oyster could be more useful and it won't show under semi-sheer black tops.
• Shapewear - from a light touch to corset-strength, it doesn't hurt to have all the bases covered.
• A metallic belt, a patent belt and a shiny box-leather belt, depending on your mood. Build a repertoire of these gradually.
• A cropped jacket or wrap-style jacket with bracelet-length sleeves is the most versatile option. It will work over any length of dress and most shapes. Textures are a good idea because if your jacket is also black, it won't matter if it's not the same shade as your dress. It doesn't have to mean conventional "evening fabrics". This could be the moment for a black
leather jacket.
• A good quality fake-fur tippet. However skimpy your outfit, this will keep hypothermia at bay.
• A flesh-coloured slip, ideally silk or satin - synthetic can whip up a storm of static.
• Diamonds, real or fake.
• Pearls, ditto.
• Finally, keep your feet pedicured. You never know when an outfit will call for exposed toes.

- The Daily Telegraph