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Home / New Zealand

Brunch review: Ozone, Grey Lynn

NZ Herald
25 May, 2019 02:30 AM3 mins to read

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Ozone Coffee Roasters is a popular edition to the Grey Lynn neighbourhood. Photo / Getty Images.

Ozone Coffee Roasters is a popular edition to the Grey Lynn neighbourhood. Photo / Getty Images.

Address: 18 Westmoreland St W, Grey Lynn
Website: https://ozonecoffee.co.nz/?v=8e3eb2c69a18
Ph: (09) 360 8125
Hours: 7am-9.30pm Mon-Tues, 7am-10pm Weds-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat, 8am-9.30pm Sunday
Score: 3.5
We paid: $66 for two

Set up and site:
Unless you're a local, the likelihood of a U-turn being involved in your drive to Ozone is high. It's tucked away on a
back street in Grey Lynn, sitting alongside a small complex of businesses. Luckily, it was our second trip to the eatery - I'd enjoyed Ozone's impressive dinner menu a couple of weeks earlier - so directions weren't an issue. It's late on a Saturday morning when we arrive and, compared to my previous visit, Ozone is heaving. While there seems to be a bit of a wait on tables, we quickly nab a spot at the bar.

Sustenance and swill:
Food decisions are both helped and hindered by the fact we have front-row seats to the kitchen's pass bench. While Matt is settled on the big brekkie ($25 for bacon, eggs, pork and fennel sausage and hash browns) from the get-go, I'm more of a swing voter. I admire the omelette (with smoked carrot and ricotta with chilli yoghurt and fried shallots) as it's whisked off to a table then watch as a chef crumbles bourbon shortbread over delightfully fluffy-looking pancake ($20, also with burnt rhubarb, labneh and sweet basil). In the end I go for the green brekkie ($25), which comes with broccoli, kimchi, soft tofu and broken rosti with pepitas, as well as the banana bread, which comes with crunchy peanut butter and jam ($10). My green brekkie leaves me a little underwhelmed. It's a great combination, with the kimchi adding a kick, but the portions of both tofu and broccoli are fairly measly. There's plenty of rosti, but it's a little overcooked for my liking. Matt's happy with his choice, but points out that it too, is fairly small considering the price tag. We decide the banana bread is the highlight. It's dense, seedy and feels wholesome. The jam is thick with chia seeds and is a great addition.

The big breakfast at Ozone.
The big breakfast at Ozone.

Set-up and site:

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The service was attentive and pretty speedy considering how busy the place was. We're caffeinated soon after being seated and our water is kept topped up throughout. The menu might not be cheap but it's Auckland - you're also paying for the site and the service, which is excellent. As for my meal, I'm willing to believe my choices were to blame for my disappointment. The pancake looked great - maybe good enough to justify my return?

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