Bartender takes a shot at perfection

CATHY ARONSON goes to Tauranga and samples the concoctions whipped up by New Zealand's cocktail champion.

A shot of Cognac XO special with Galliano espresso, Vedrenne caramel, Baileys and banana liqueur, given a three-stroke shake, poured in circles into an ice-chilled glass and cut away without spilling a drop.

The creation, called Spi vs Spy, by national cocktail champion Joseph Gordon, is more like a one-minute wonder, but when it comes to cocktails the eye can be deceiving.

The delicate, smooth and creamy taste is followed by a strong hit of cognac that quickly fades and leaves you wanting more.

Cocktail sipping is an international trend, Mr Gordon says, that has returned to New Zealand with bartenders coming back from their OE, and is quickly replacing the pre-mixed guzzle-by-the-glass alternative.

The bartenders, like Mr Gordon, who travelled through the US and Europe, have brought back the original cocktail recipes and are exposing New Zealand's watered-down, blended versions. "One dash of lemonade or a blend instead of a shake can make a huge difference.

"It's like food. People who have travelled a lot and like eating out get an appreciation for fine food and notice the difference."

But the 33-year-old Tauranga bar manager prefers to come up with his own drinks. He has invented 300 concoctions in the past year.

Mr Gordon, who spent 12 years as a chef in the New Zealand Air Force, finds it easy to come up with new taste sensations.

"I mix a lot of them in my head before I start experimenting with the real thing. I use my clients as my taste testers and sometimes change the recipe slightly to suit."

Some of his inventions have even been created to order, including his vodka mix for the local girls called "Beach Street Babes."

He must be doing something right - he is ranked the 18th best bartender in the world, after winning the national title three times.

In November he will take his latest invention to the world championships in Brazil to compete against 45 other countries.

His goal is to be placed in the top 10. Two years ago he was number 14, and would love to be number one.

Number one would cement his name and drink in gold in the "Bartenders Bible," along with timeless classics like the Margarita.

"That would be a dream come true, to walk into a bar in Europe and hear someone ask for a Spi vs Spy."

He will be judged on presentation, hygiene, showmanship and the taste. He has to make five identical drinks that taste and measure exactly the same in just seven minutes.

At the Spi bar in Tauranga he mixes the drink in front of the customer, but his hand cleverly disguises the portions in the shot glass.

One slight measurement change and the perfect blend is ruined.

He has looked into getting a copyright on his drinks, but has been told it would be nearly impossible.

"It only has to be changed by one-tenth, which could be as simple as using 7up instead of lemonade. But it took me days to design, so even if they know the ingredients it cannot be copied exactly."

If Spi vs Spy makes number one, all will be revealed for the world to copy.

But if the recipe does not make the international bible, the drink will remain a well-guarded secret.