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Home / New Zealand

Auckland restaurants: Secret menus and hidden offerings at city eateries

Lincoln Tan
By Lincoln Tan
Multimedia Journalist·NZ Herald·
25 Sep, 2020 05:00 PM4 mins to read

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Marjorie Bennett, owner of Boracay Garden Restaurant. Photo / Babiche Martens.

Marjorie Bennett, owner of Boracay Garden Restaurant. Photo / Babiche Martens.

Secret menus are not an urban legend in Auckland, and often what you see on the menu is much less than what you can get.

Across the city, there are restaurants that offer two sets of menus - one general, and the other written in ethnic script with offerings that are vastly different.

Others have special off-the-menu dishes for regular customers, and some cater to dining styles that are unique to certain ethnic groupings.

At Boracay Garden Restaurant near Auckland's Viaduct, it's offering of Boodle Fight meals is not widely publicised.

In Boodle Fight meals, piles of food is placed on banana leaves spread across the table. Photo / Babiche Martens.
In Boodle Fight meals, piles of food is placed on banana leaves spread across the table. Photo / Babiche Martens.
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Originating from the Filipino military, a big pile of food - ranging from rice, fish, barbecued meat and skewers - is served on top of a table lined with banana leaves.

No utensils are used, diners eat with their bare hands (although this practice is being temporarily halted at Boracay because of Covid-19).

Owner Marjorie Bennett says people in Asia believe food tastes better when eaten with their hands, but it is a practice that may seem out of place in New Zealand.

"But of course we are more than happy to serve anyone who wants to book it for their private function," she says.

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"We don't really advertise much about our Boodle Fight because I feel only people who understand Filipino culture will appreciate it."

Award-winning NZ Herald food critic Kim Knight says it can be a challenge to find the best that some restaurants have to offer because these are hidden beyond their traditional menus.

"The first time you go to a restaurant, you are literally judging the book by its cover - and you can't do that effectively if the restaurant's not giving you the full story," Knight says.

"I kind of like the idea of secret menus, in the sense that repeat diners might end up 'in the know' and rewarded for their loyalty to a particular establishment, but I'm wary of elitism.

"Who's making the judgment call about which menu I'm given, and what are they basing that call on?"

Knight says she loathes the diners who order, for example, offal, like they're on an episode of Fear Factor, but believes this is becoming less common.

"We're genuinely interested in food as a conduit to understanding cultures other than our own," Knight says.

"I probably wouldn't order a duck blood dish, but I am curious about it - how it's made, what is its history. I can't answer those questions, or increase my own understanding if someone has already assumed I'm not interested."

Iconic Auckland Eats, a new initiative developed by Auckland Tourism Events and Economic Development (Ateed) to boost the city's hospitality sector, is also aimed at uncovering some of the gastronomic gems found in these hidden menus.

Ateed general manager destination Steve Armitage says Auckland's food and dining scene is incredibly diverse.

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"As locals, we know where to find the best eats, and it's usually by word of mouth that we share these discoveries – such as the special dishes that aren't necessarily listed on the menu."

Restaurant Association chief executive Marisa Bidois says ethnic restaurants here often try to "satisfy two sets of tastes" but is calling for more inclusive menus.

"Auckland, in particular, is culturally and racially diverse and we know from our members that restaurateurs have a role to play in translating not only the words on the page but also transferring the hospitality customs that go alongside the food," Bidois says.

"While we understand that some ethnic restaurants are trying to satisfy two sets of tastes, we encourage all restaurants to create inclusive menus."

Bidois encouraged ethnic restaurants to do their best to translate menus to ensure that everyone had the opportunity to fully experience and enjoy everything on offer.

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