Wine: Church scoops awards

2009 Church Road Syrah, $26. Photo / Greg Bowker

One of the country's most significant and authentic wine awards recently celebrated its 10th year. The Hawkes Bay A&P Mercedes Benz Wine Awards may not be large but they have high relevance because they are limited to wines from a single region, pitching like against like with tough judging criteria.

For example, if in some categories the judges feel no medals should be awarded, they are not afraid to say so. Good. We're often too quick to hand out bronze, silver, gold or highly commendeds to encourage winemakers and thank them for entering. Sadly, this doesn't help raise the bar. Medals awarded for showing up do nothing to improve quality and lull producers into a false sense of ability, as well as security.

Improvement comes and excellence is achieved through being harsh and honest rather than kind and considerate. And as if it's not already blindingly obvious, New Zealand's global wine future lies in its reputation for high-end quality, not adding to the sea of average wine sloshing on foreign shores.

Hawkes Bay already has a fine reputation for quality wines and indeed some remarkable chardonnay, Bordeaux blends and syrah, in particular, are leading the charge.

This year's awards turned into something of a benefit for Church Road, who took out Champion Wine of the Show, Winery of the Year, Best Sustainable Wine of the Show and a clutch of golds for other categories.

Senior winemaker Chris Scott and his speechwriters needed all the creativity they could muster as there is only so many ways to thank the vineyard team, the friendly folk at the cellar door, senior management, Auntie Flo and the lady who whips up a batch of scones for morning tea during harvest.

To be eligible, each wine has to be made with 85 per cent Hawkes Bay grapes and 90 per cent of the region's wineries took part, so garnering gold is not to be sniffed at.

With consistently fine wines at reasonable prices, Church Road deserves the success. They have a proud history and excellent winemaking tradition. But they are not about to rest on the accolades. Some of the country's smartest producers are found in Hawkes Bay - you get the feeling they intend to keep it that way.

RECOMMENDED

2009 Church Road Syrah, $26
Champion and best sustainable wine of the show. Hopefully it's not all sold out. This is exactly what syrah ought to be, drop-dead gorgeous, mystical and memorable.

2010 Church Road Pinot Gris, $26
Proving that the producer is not just about red wine. Enough elegance to turn the head and enough weight and concentrated fruit flavours to reach for without having to ask for a second glass.