Verrans Espresso and Food, Birkdale

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

We eat out and order in a lot. Especially me, because I don't cook, can't cook, won't cook. Last week we "discovered" a great pizza place in our new neighbourhood and it was as if we had stumbled upon a little nugget of gold on the footpath. Finding Verrans Espresso and Food was a similar sort of experience.

In a row of colonial-style shops near the Verrans Rd roundabout, the cafe is admirably understated. Instead of kitschy-koo porcelain figurines and antique clocks, you have views of trees, a few pieces of contemporary art and some funky chairs.

Mixed grills are normally something we approach with caution, as they can so easily be overcooked, over-oiled and overbearing, but at Verrans the chefs apply a surprisingly light touch to this traditional grease-fest.

Nevertheless, Tim's grill ($15) was big enough to satisfy a construction worker. The bacon, eggs, sausage, fresh ciabatta, ripe tomato, and chunky little homemade potato cake with spring onion were literally piled on the plate and he had his choice of condiments.

My smoked fishcakes ($14) didn't look as large but still kept me going until dinner. Two perfectly round poached eggs were balanced on mounds of spinach and the cakes, which were much like Tim's potato cakes with the addition of smoked salmon. Lemon hollandaise had been poured over the two stacks and pooled on the plate.

My mocha bowl ($4) was also big and wonderful; the chocolate fish on the side a nice, unexpected touch. Tim's orange juice ($4) was pulpy but didn't appear to be freshly squeezed.

We spent a lovely hour reading the paper and planning our day. The biggest surprise was that more people weren't crowded into the place. I expect next time we go, we won't have our pick of the tables.

Ambience: Laidback cool

Service: Friendly and swift

Parking: Enough for you and all your hungry friends

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.